fastbob

Thanks Tim , no I haven't ridden it yet . I've just had a fiddle with it . Its really odd , if I press the pedal the brake works fine but the pistons don't fully pull back afterwards. If I gently wiggle the pads with nothing but firm finger pressure it frees the disk immediately. Apply the brake and effort is required to rock the bike backwards and forwards after the pedal is released. Wiggle the pads again and its back to normal. As you say , it might sort itself out but I don't fancy sitting around waiting for a smoking caliper to cool down. I think new seals are in order and fitted exactly as Suzuki describe using brake fluid only and leave out the caliper grease.

Right then , my front calipers on the GSXR 1100 are still working better than I can ever remember them working and I've had the bike since 4000m . So today I thought I might as well whip my rear caliper off , split it , clean behind the seals ( if necessary) change all the fluid and put it all back together again. So everything went well, the pistons and seals were in surprisingly good nick so no issues until I filled the system and bled out all the air. The rear brake has always been a bit spongy but now the lever action is much firmer. So what's wrong? The pads won't come away from the disk that's what. I can turn the wheel by hand ( on paddock stand ) but its an effort. What worries me it that this is quickly going to get red hot and jam on . The lever does have free play so it isn't that . I'm just baffled. The only thing I can think of is that I shouldn't have used Red Rubber Grease on the seals and they are not gripping the pistons to pull them back in. Ideas / similar experiences eagerly awaited please.

When you say full throttle I guess you mean full speed which means lots of air swirling around the exposed pod filter. This turbulence can create differences in pressure that can have a negative effect on the carburetor. This is why the manufacturers surround the air filter in a carefully designed plastic box. Don't get me wrong,pod filters do look great but if bike makers could save a few quid by not fitting an air box they probably would.You will just have keep experimenting in the hope of getting it right. Worth bearing in mind that K&N filters can cause problems if you don't put the correct amount of oil them. An alternative to a pod filter is a foam filter that might be less susceptible to turbulence.good luck.

From everything you say it sounds just fine,happy days.

The thing about small cc single cylinder four stroke bikes is that they either work or they don't. There isn't really much you can do to tune them other than compensate for any modifications to the exhaust or air box. I used to buy and sell cg125s which are fairly similar to a gn125. All I know is that they were extremely sensitive to air box / filter modifications. There is a little plastic shroud about the size of a fag packet that sits around the air intake. Leave this off and the bike will only run at speed with the choke half on. SO ...fitting a pod filter to a gn might not be a great idea whatever jet size or carb settings you use. Let us know how things turn out.

I wouldn't put a metal scraper of any kind anywhere near mating surfaces. I use a solvent such as brake cleaner , wooden scrapers,a cloth and even fingernails plus hours of frustrating hard work. Petrol works well just don't tell the HSE.

Well it must be possible because its just happened to your bike. It's a bit surprising, you would never get away with this on a CG125 . So,happy days and on with the rest of your project. Could be a different story in heavy rain though.

ive had a Chinese loncin a 107 Honda innover clown had it three years now , parts are cheap , given me no problems , but its serviced and checked over weekly , done 7000 miles now ,

depends on the make and your attitude to maintenance

if you look about you will see Chinese bikes every were have a word with there owners see what they have to say

Clown ? do you mean clone ?

So is it actually very hot?

You definitely need to fit a complete new shaft BUT don't assume that you have to split the whole engine. There is a chance that it can be withdrawn and pushed through from the other side . Can't be sure though so please study the manual first. Good luck.

I normally put a large Allen key in the gap between the pistons (after removing the pads) and then pump the brake lever until all the pistons touch the Allen key.....then remove the Allen key and pump the pistons out the last bit......

I just took the pads out and put the calipers back on the bike . Pumped the lever until all 12 pistons were on the disk ( top up fluid ) then took the calipers off and drained and split them. finally I pulled and twisted each piston out using pliers and a piece of rubber .

I always use an airline!

Never had one fly out or hurt someone

But then I know to place something in the calipers to stop them coming all the way out

With opposed piston calipers the pistons can't fly out because the other half of the caliper is in the way.

 

No but they come out with a force that will split skin and crush misplaced fingers

Young yts in daihatsu garage i worked in learnt the hard way .. fingers curled in the caliper ... applied the air .lost the tips of two fingers due to the damage the pistons created

DO NOT USE A AIRLINE unless you want to hurt yourself or someone ..the pistons fly !

 

I always use an airline!

Never had one fly out or hurt someone

But then I know to place something in the calipers to stop them coming all the way out

With opposed piston calipers the pistons can't fly out because the other half of the caliper is in the way.

Maybe they had a lot of cam cover gaskets that they needed to get rid of......

Nice notion but its reusable.

Use the hydraulics to remove it.

Put the 3 pistons back in. Reconnect hose.

Use a block of wood to prevent 2 of the pistons moving out again.

Clamp the remaining free one with a g-clamp.

Punp the master cylinder to push the tight one out.

Be careful near the end because it could pop out spraying fluid allover the place.

Sometimes if you are lucky you can remove it using compressed air instead of connecting to the bikes y=hdraulics.

Depends how tight it is.

Yep, this is all great advice. What I recently did to grip the more stubborn pistons was use a folded up piece of rubber inner tube and ordinary pliers. You only need to protect the outer surface of the pistons and this only works if everything is absolutely grease and brake fluid free so a blast of brake cleaner beforehand should help. If you flick back to the recent thread "Brake lever travel" you will find loads of brilliant advice that was a great help to me when I stripped-down my calipers a couple of weeks ago. You might want to get a tube of Red Rubber Grease before you reassemble . Good luck..

Please not again. There are so many previous threads on this subject with so many excellent in depth responses . Surely everyone with an opinion for or against must have expressed it at least once by now. Just saying.

My 2 daytonas.

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You got gyroscopes ? Where's the side stand especially pic two ?

Here you gohttp://i.imgur.com/IrMFAMv.jpg

I chanced upon these LED taillights and flush indicators today in the caravan section of a camping shop . The distributor is Johnnie Longdon ltd . I think they would look good on all kinds of customs or specials plus at £9.99 a go thay are probably a bit cheaper than motorcycle specific ones ... Sorry, I tried to post a second pic and it all went tits up so no pics at all.

Be interesting to see the publicity material produced for this particular run of bikes. for instance.. were they advertised as being lighter. with the engine casing being some 'all new' alloy that offered significant weight savings.

and it turned out that this alloy was 'moving' too much during repeated hot/cold cycles.

or maybe it didn't.. that this procedure was deemed unnecessary and dropped from following years manuals. an abundance of caution to begin with.. that turned out to be a waste of time.

It an interesting point. Just to be clear , the requirement to tighten was for the oil cooled L model GSXR 1100 and not as I mistakenly assumed, the water cooled WP model. So am I to right to be thinking that this need to regularly re tighten head bolts is,as most of you suggest , practically unheard of?

Thanks for all the replies. Let me put the question in another way . Purely out of interest,who would actually do this if their manual DID state that it was required ?

Does it provide the sequence in which to re-torque them back up?

If not you could easily do more harm than good.

Oh yes,it's in the picture I posted here. Diagonally,working from the centre.

Thanks for all the replies. Let me put the question in another way . Purely out of interest,who would actually do this if their manual DID state that it was required ?

Is it just referring to the exhaust and a poor translation included head bolts?

That was my first thought but no, it means both . It's in the periodic maintenance chart as well. Anyway it's no longer an issue, see other replies. Thanks.

Your looking at the wrong manual for your bike, the one you are looking at is the GSXR 89-92, yours is the GSXR 93-98, it doesn't state to do that in that manual

You're absolutely right! I wrongly assumed that it would be the same . I did have the L model years ago and I never tightened the bolts on that either and that was still going strong at 100000 miles.I still refer to this old manual for general info on torque settings etc because I cant seem to get a 93 WP manual. Thanks for that!

Well I hadn't heard of it either,as I say I kind of stumbled upon it the other day.http://i.imgur.com/adl7uIO.jpg