TimR

That black and white wire is designed to ground though as it goes through a points set Which if memory serves when closed earth out that system but not to fuse but to suppress the coils desire to set of large explosions

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1. Has this bike ever ran in your possession ? A lot of points based bikes have issues caused by incorrect rebuild procedure when changing contact breaker sets . Normally the insulating washer gets omitted or incorrectly installed causing the points to earth out inadvertently . Check that this is not the case by inspection against manual diagram et.

Hmmmm should customs be informed that your waiting for something to come out that you picked up on your trip abroad I don’t know if I did pick something or not, in any case most affected country in Eu is uk. So there is the more chance to get it here than somewhere in Eu at the moment. Every time you get out of hose to shops or petrol station you are at risk. Think you may have misinterpreted my attempt at Humour referencing that Customs would place you in a Dry toilet and gloved hands be parting your cheeks conducting a cavity search

Bugger, is everything ok ? Yes all is ok, I was out of country, job related but as well I use it for pleasure as well thankfully. So as per new rules I have to self isolate as prevention. If I got something during my trip it will eventually came out in week or two Hmmmm should customs be informed that your waiting for something to come out that you picked up on your trip abroad

When did the bike last run and have you charged the battery since ? Check that you have a neutral light Do you normally have to start the bike with the clutch in ? If not try starting with clutch pulled in

fair enough .. genuinity accepted .. but you are fcuked .. unless your solicitor is a miracle worker .. commiserations on your licence.. And insurance for the foreseeable future .. And hopefully your employer doesn't stipulate how many points are accepted if company vehicles are driven .

Remember speed fines are salary based as well now . https://www.confused.com/on-the-road/driving-law/speeding-fine-calculator

Sorry. why? As long as the car's charging system is working properly it would be running at 14.7 volts. Same as a bike. It depends how long your ride is and how flat you battery was. If you can charge at 6A for 2 hours you will fully charge a 12AH battery. Obviously at tickover you might struggle .... and get bored. Why never from a running car etc .. Amperage for one .

Manual shown is for dr125g (1986) though Parts fiche shows battery and reg https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-dr125s-1988-j-united-kingdom-france-finland-e02-e04-e15_model13161/partslist/

Stator/Alternator provides x amount power Arguements sake 12.5v Nothing turned on engine running the ignition system has full use of that 12.5v Now you use lights that 12.5v is being shared everywhere This is why you need a battery to store power that can be distributed smoothly and consistently across the electrical system . Charging systems are designed to replenish power in the battery and if its not there it causes damage to the charging system which over time will cause it to fail and not provide sufficient power . Light fluctuations can be a sign of poor battery condition ,charging or could be how the charging system operates and not provide any relevant output until a certain rev range . Old school bikes with points could work without batteries easily but newer still bikes with cdi 's , electronic ignition require a battery .

There is your problem. Yes it needs a battery hence why its burnt your stator out. They are not designed to work as the main continuous source of ignition/power source

Does work but you need to leave it running for about 15-20 minutes to replenish the energy lost by time drain and then the energy used to start the engine sufficiently and you need to alternate the revs during that period Also check the electrolyte level is sufficient before attempting to charge .

Check your fuses before pulling things apart to test wiring Look in owners manual for fuses and it should list the location of fuse box ,which fuse etccetc

Do you have a fully charged battery attached to the bike ?

It has to go on the end of bleed nipple So take nipple with you . Needs to be a secure fit

If you go for any form of tpms remember to get the wheels balanced afterwards as the device weight will throw things out enough to cause vibration Some valve mounted devices can place excessive stress on valves and cause the valve stem to fail leading to deflation ... May be slow through a minor fault to rapid deflation as valve stem snaps

( Not saying you do ) Biggest reason why most rate the gunson eezibleed poorly is that they fail to read the instructions fully to only use 15psi pressure . Most just clip onto fully inflated tyre and wonder why they have a brake and clutch fluid lagoon under the car

Few tips Watch the screws on reservoir caps will chew easily if incorrect screwdriver used ( dont use a posidrive ) Should be JIS screwdriver but if not available a standard cross head will do but give it a few taps with a hammer to seat it well and shock it a bit . Have plenty of rags handy You are trying to expel all air from the system which will show as bubbles and in the initial stages you may hear it . Make sure lever is on its maximum setting ( furthest away from bars ) Rebuild brake system pads in place etc Fill the system and undo the two bleed nipples and let fluid freely drain through ( you may want to put a length of clear plastic tubing on each nipple to protect your paintwork.keep topping up reservoir . Once fluid is flowing nicely from both nipples .Tighten them and top up Check for any unwanted leaks! Place the reservoir cap or the rubber insert loosely in place as when you squeeze the lever you will get a spurt of fluid upwards . At a gentle pace squeeze and release the lever about ten times . check fluid level do not allow below minimum at any time . You need to bleed the master cylinder first before the calipers . Place a rag below the master cylinder ( where the brake pipes connect to fluid reservoir)banjo bolt and protect as much as you can in that area . locate a well fitting spanner and just gently loosen the banjo bolt ( don't undo but just so its not really tight to begin with) Pump the lever at a gentle pace about ten times then hold the lever in. Undo banjo bolt DO NOT RELEASE LEVER some fluid may spurt beware . Tighten banjo bolt ( not excessive tight ) Release lever . Check fluid level .top up if necessary Pause for 15 seconds ( this allows the parts to return to their resting position to get maximum effort) Repeat lever pump and hold . Undo banjo bolt and hold.. Fluid release .and tighten Release lever .check fluid level Pause for 15 seconds Repeat . You should after a few sessions feel some pressure begin to build in the lever and potentially hear some movement from the calipers. Have rags below caliper Then go to the caliper furthest away from cylinder ( will be left side) Check level top up if necessary Pump lever ten times gently and hold . Undo bleed nipple . Fluid/air release Tighten nipple Release lever check fluid Pause 15 seconds Repeat until fluid flowing with no air . Move to other side and do the same Then your lever should have good firm feel. If still poor then rebleed master cylinder and the calipers as above . If you really struggle to get any pressure and you have no leaks Remove calipers from their mountings but leaving all pipework attached Turn the caliper upside down and give a few taps with a hammer handle . Then reattach calipers. Tockicos are known to trap air and inverting and tappingthem can get this to travel to a better area . Once satisfied make sure all bolts are tight and all relevant surfaces are clean of brake fluid. Top up fluid lever remember do not overfill as the system requires room to allow fluid to return .And the rubber insert will increase the level slightly. Watch the orientation of the master cylinder lid as it does have a small cut out in it to act as a drain/vent. When using on road remember to conduct a rolling brake test as soon as possible and that new pads will need bedding in !

And remember when you bleed or rebuild the calipers not to spill any brake and clutch fluid on the paintwork as it will be in vain

Is so happy that the wife gave up her reign of owning triumphs 675 Daytona's ......

Some will reset after ' battery reset' ( Disconnect battery for 15-30 minutes ) Check that the exhaust control valve is not seized Turn bike on let it whirr and do its thing Clutch in and engage starter . Exhaust sensor will try to richen ( adds more fuel to the air ) the engine because it believes the readings its getting due to the leak are lean ( more air than fuel ) .

Another golden rule with triumph 3 cyls always have a good battery in use as a low voltage may spin the bike but can ruin the sprag clutch and they be a pain and genuine triumph are expensive .

When you want to replace i will warn you Its nigh on impossible to get something that feels as right as a zed . Newer bikes of same capacity feel too light ...yes they have more power to weight but they don't have that size and feel . Hence why i went zzr600 ,zzr1100, slight deviation gtr1000 , back to zzr1100 and as much as i try to like it the zzr1400 was too aggressive in body position so went gtr1400 ( ballistic sofa ) .