Colin the Bear

Yeah. If you haven't used Google before, it's greathttp://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/smiley-face-bouncing-008.gif

Say again?http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/smiley-music006.gif

What, the wind noise?http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/0012.gif

Don't use 'em much. Can't get on with them. PARDONhttp://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/smiley-music006.gif It's quite hilly round here and the varying pressures give me earache with plugs in. I too have a bagful from work. Stopping up your ears doesn't give you 100% protection from noise damage as a recent test showed a lot of wind noise and low frequencies come through the skull and jaw bone.

Professionally fitted , Data-tag etches your lights and mirrors with a code and fits transponders, mine has 5, to the major parts of the bike. It was already done when I bought mine so I just had to register the change of owner. If you have stickers without the etching any thief knows you just have stickers. Not sure how efficient the Police are with the transponder readers but one wave of the reader over the bike will bring up a name and address. If that's not you then the explaining begins. This works even if the bike has been broken and sold for parts. A noisy alarm and a good chain and lock system is always a good idea.

Take pics with your phone as you disassemble. To remind you where things go

Not dear these days. http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalo ... F8Q8wIwAg#

Then stop driving that heap and I'll buy you a new car Cheers man

economy? Carbon foot print , enviroment global warming, My car won't do 60.

Sips , crumple zones and airbags

30 mph is already the minimum. I tow my caravan at 45. 30 is about right. Too slow isn't a problem. Poor observation of slow vehicles is the problem. They're all slow when you get over a ton

If in doubt fit new original genuine part and give it another go. Then Auto electrician is what I would do.

Mine's naked. 125 is interesting.

Yeh but cars couldnt go that quick or stop either if they managed to back then anyway till Shelby stuck his oar in Preston By pass opened 1958 (now M6) See here for what was available http://www.transportspecs.com/top-10-cl ... 1950-1959/ When Sterling Moss was King

You should be able to pass a test that allows you to go faster. Basic 50mph, intermediate 70, advanced 100. Traveled a bit in Germany where there's only a speed limit in built up areas. Makes you check behind if you know stuff is coming at 140. They have a lot of two lane autobahn and manage quite well. You don't get one truck overtaking another by 0.25 mph and blocking the road for 5 miles to get past. They seem to like rules and stick to them. Not in favour of giving the police more latitude. They have enough as it is

No limit at all when they were built

Try the suzuki owners club

With a worn piston ring or bore the combustion blows past the piston and into the sump. A simple test for this is to remove the oil filler cap and run the engine. smoke and allsorts will blow out if you have a fault there.. If the bike runs fine with the tank off it's more likely to be a fueling problem. Tank breather is suspect. open filler and listen for hiss of inrushing air. Some have a pinhole in the filler cap that can become blocked. If you have picked up some water in the fuel there should be a drain access to the float chamber to drain it away. It's a common urban myth about dirt coming through from the bottom of the tank. Most bikes are gravity fed. The most common problems after running dry are air locks in the pipework and gum/tar drying out and bunging the works up. Do the simple things first.

If that doesn't shift it, change the plug

And then there's the opinion that says them's your lucky leathers so keep 'em. You're a bit far from me. I know a couple of places up here that will repair leathers. You might have more success asking the track day boys. Stick it up in that section.

Lies, Damn Lies and statistics

Accelerating hard from coldhttp://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/69.gifStop it. Most engine wear occurs when cold. You should let the bike warm up before you set off. Nothing like a misfire when you're leaning over and need the engine for balance. If the engine is cold then combustion isn't at its best. Add into the mix a wide open throttle throwing in extra fuel and a lot of it isn't being burned in the cylinder and will find its way into the exhaust. At some point when the mix is right in the exhaust, it will ignite. Apart from wasting fuel/money you are causing engine wear and compromising safety. Take a minute to let the engine warm up to a point where it ticks over smoothly without choke and go easy on the throttle till it's at optimum running temp. Less is more

The torque arm is a connecting rod from the brake drum to the frame to stop it rotating when you apply the brake. It shouldn't move. You mention caliper. Disc or drum rear brake? Could be a warped disc. Sounds more like you have a serious rear brake problem or possibly a collapsed wheel bearing. If your torque arm is rubbing on the wheel you have serious problems. Don't ride it till it's sorted Edit. Did you put the spacers back in the right order when you had the wheel off?

5lb leather faced and copper faced mallet. Universal adjuster

I'd be tempted to give it a run. The pads will clean up the discs. If you still have problems then you can give it a service. Steady away tho