Colin the Bear

Must be my age. I only measure electricals in Kw

It's never going to be popular with a £4.5K price tag. Has it been built with a competition class in mind? I thought learner legal was 11bhp. How does this qualify with 15bhp?

If you put the bike in gear and roll it forward to take up all slack in the gear box (backlash) the top will be slack and the bottom will be tight. If you roll the bike backwards the bottom will be slack and the top will be tight. If your chain is rubbing on anything it needs adjusting. It may be out of alignment or the new sprockets have altered the path of the chain causing it to rub on the frame. Did you change sprocket sizes? Wheel alignment can be done on the centre stand. Chain adjustment should be done as per manufacturers instructions. Mine have alll been on side stand with some load on the suspension. The recommended free play / movement giving enough room for the suspension to work. The geometry of the rear suspension varies with different bikes. As the rear compresses most will tighten the chain. If you over tighten the chain you will not only put strain on moving parts but you may lock up the rear suspension giving you a hard tail. A loose chain can come off in transit with all sorts of disastrous consequenses.

Get yourself a road atlas and go find some B roads and smaller

Have a proper butchers here http://www.ktm.com/125/125-duke-eu/360-ansicht.html

Pants jacket and helmet to match. http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/imagesCABXW9DE.jpg

You can use the head of a 13mm bolt as a hex key. Add lock nuts to turn it and cut to size or weld a handle on it.

You're in the wrong lane and you ain't even bought the bike yet

Don't get scared by the numbers. 1200 bandit early models were a bit savage but mellowed as the model progressed. The 600 needs reving to get performance out of it where as the 1200 has more torque from lower revs. 20 bhp difference will be noticable but the extra 30ft/lbs of torque , from 39 to 69, will take the strain out of riding for only a 6 kg weight gain. 5 speed box on the 12, 6 speed on the 600. If you buy at the right price and age you'll have enough left to upgrade the suspension. Your choice then is faired or naked. I like naked, but it is noisey , tiring and you get all the weather when it catches you. And now ,just a word to the wise. Bare in mind that although the CB900 was the bees knees in it's day the bandit 600 will out perform it in all departments. In my opinion a 30 year break means you can't ride any more. Don't go at it like you just need to brush up. You need to learn from the beginning again. Statistically you are in a very at risk demographic. Not said to be critical but we see alot of born again casualties. Good hunting

Backlash

Sounds like the oil isn't circulating which could be the pump or a blocked line somewhere. I wouldn't run it any more till you find the problem.

Some batteries never recover from a total flattening. Sounds like yours has had it and needs replacing.

I'd be tepmpted to RedX it. If it's been stood any time, a clean out of the fuel system won't hurt. The first part of the choke just opens the throttle. Perhaps now you've done the "thumping it" adjustment the idle needs adjusting.

There's a whole thread on pitstop about chain care. No need to clutter up chat with the million and one opinions about that, and that's just me.http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/0012.gif Asda smart price do a multi purpose cleaner 45p for a litre. Couple of caps in a bucket and a big sponge. Hose or bucket off with clean water.

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/0045.gif Braking after you lean means you went in too hot or scared yourself. Back brake ,only if you must ,in a corner. Sequence of events should be brake on, brake off and tip in, roll back on the throttle. Use the clutch to take up the backlash in the drive if you have a snatcher. More throttle to run wider, less throttle to tighten up. Never less than a feathered throttle. Cruising, just roll off the throttle tip in and roll back on.

They usually do the locking and unlocking thing when you've left a door or boot open. The solenoid may have gone in the drivers door or something may be seized. Wiggle and squirt. Try manually locking the drivers door with the key then locking it with the fob. Reverse for opening it. In my experience, as far as old cars go, if you can drive it, it's as good as it gets. I have an old astra with 250k on it. Lots of silly problems but it starts and runs so what the hey.

http://www.getgeared.co.uk/Cruiser_Cust ... _Luggage_2

WD40 then degrease it??? Making yourself an extra job there Hammerite and smoothrite react chemicaly with the rust. It also forms its own surface so giving a good finish. A good wire brushing will suffice. A wire mop on a power drill will take the arm ache out of it. Get it into a state so that you can see how far the rot has gone. If need be get a second opinion before you paint it.

You wanted or just butt ugly? Why you want hide your face? You a moslem lady?http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/smiley-face-bouncing-008.gif

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/sEm_oops2.gif

Slightly higher cold pressure for winter riding. Slightly lower when it's baking hot Boyles Law isn't it?

I came down this morning to find the house had been burgled. Everything had been stolen and replaced with exact replicas

Now go buy a manual

Poor connection can do it. Dirty/corroded bulbs or holders. An expired bulb make the others go quick.

What do you call a dinosaur with one eye? A doyouthinkhesarus