Colin the Bear

and of course everybody gets caught every time

Motorways are where you should stick to the limit. They are so busy, patroled and camera covered and there's temporary restrictions and road repairs. You have to go out late at night to get over the limit for more than a mile or two. Give me a nice b road any day on the bike.

Check wheel bearings, swing arm bushes/bearings, shocks, damage loose worn, wheel/tyre damage/balance, steeringhead bearings. chain stretched giving tight spots.

Shoei helmets don't fit my head, nevermind my glasses. Vemar and AGV for me. Next time you buy glasses and they're offering two pairs for one, pick a pair with the bike in mind. Fashionable wide arms act like blinkers and skinny metal frames bend as you squeeze them into the helmet. Tiny lenses let the wind in your eyes when riding in rain with the visor cracked. Take some one with you with a bit of experience when shopping as some sales staff care only about commission. Minimum for me would be leather jacket, over ankle stout boots, and leather gloves. Don't pay a lot for your first gear cos it's never the perfect choice and you will replace it.

Grommets, eyelets A groundsheet lasts ages if you don't need it to be fitted

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/0027.gifExcellenthttp://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/0027.gif

Umdiddlediddlediddleumdiddleah Spit spot

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/emoticon-cartoon-025.gifExcellent

As far as I'm aware aluminium cannot be chromed. It's anodised for the high shine finish. So chrome plated bars would appear to be steel. Is it not possible to ream out the bar ends or fit different bar ends. Nothing like doing a small job and ending up with a list.

Gore tex is a brand name and you'll pay extra for that. Leather boots with a good oil or wax will keep out most weather. Nothing keeps everything out in the worst conditions in my experience. Polly bags over your socks and under your boots is the cheap solution. Derri boots are the most reliably water proof boots I've come across. Having said that I've paddled across a stream in cadet/commando boots and stayed dry. Altberg come highly recommended too. they do bike and walking boots http://www.silvermans.co.uk/Products/ta ... fault.aspx http://www.surplusandoutdoors.com/shop/ ... 44872.html

Easy calculation Watts divided by voltage gives amps 55w headlight divided by 12v = 4.6amps Battery output is measured in amp hours. So 4.6 amps with a 5amp/hour battery will drain everything the battery has in just over an hour. (in theory) In practice it will appear flat much sooner but will recover slightly if left standing with no load

A single piston caliper or a caliper with both pistons on one side moves on the bolts, so needs (a little) lubrication. The Seals keep lube in and weather out. I use silicone grease. I find a thread lock compound is more useful for the mounting threads on these bolts as it will keep weather out and so impede corrosion while stopping any losening from vibration. Copperslip is a legal must do in areas like the back of the pads where there is no weather protection and salt can cause problems. A smear will suffice. Less is more as far as lubricants and braking systems go. Better to apply little and often than risk any contamination and brake failure

Once again this marvelous versatile cure all steps into the breachhttp://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/coffee.gif

Silicone grease or lard

Not sure if they're waterproof http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/B46kB2kKGrHqRhgEw5kBW09BMPoUUy_1.jpg

Use the telephone and speak to them

Go through the socket set. If it won't go on try next size up. If it rattles try next size down

I'm guessing it's the swing arm pivot cover.

Sharp test given way to price-tag as a way of measuring effectiveness of a helmet now has it? Tesco value helmet at £30 scored higher than some Arai helmets. What value do you place on your head? BOGOF Buy one get one free very apt

Heheheheh. Couldn't help it. I tried to type a sensible answer but it just wouldn't come out.

We've all done that lol Did the ignition on an old reliant, plugs, points, leads, capacitor, rotor arm, distributor cap, coil. Still wouldn't start, flatened the battery and resorted to shoving it. Then spotted the rotor arm on the passenger seat. Doh! At least you didn't chop the bolt

Tough one this.http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/sCo_hmmthink.gif Does the bike get wet when it's raining?http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/hmm.gif and when this water gets on the hot parts does it steam?http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/0012.gif I give inhttp://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/flag.gif

It may not be the reg/rect that is poor, it may be the positioning not allowing enough airflow for cooling. I don't know if the CB forums are still going but if they are those guys would know.

Apart from being illegal, a signal that says "I am a stationary hazzard" applied to a moving vehicle is confusing. A big sign saying on tow is the norm. A beacon isn't hazzards

That's not what it says You MUST NOT use hazard warning lights while driving or being towed unless you are on a motorway or unrestricted dual carriageway and you need to warn drivers behind you of a hazard or obstruction ahead. Only use them for long enough to ensure that your warning has been observed. On a Motorway/Dual carriageway if the traffic ahead stops you apply brakes to illuminate brake lights and turn on hazzards to let them know you are stopping. As soon as the vehicle behind acknowledges by activating hazzards, turn yours off.