Colin the Bear

Mr fastener http://www.mr-fastner.com/

Electric toothbrush and autosol takes the arm ache and knuckle skinning out of spoke cleaning

Pull the brake lever and place a cable tie round the lever and hand grip. Leave it over night. Hey presto the air will rise into the reservoir.

Use hand signalshttp://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/animal-smiley-012.gif

A clunk is something moving that shouldn't. By the time it's started being a noticable clunk, it's got pretty bad. It shouldn't take an extensive search by some one who knows what they're doing to find it. But I wouldn't ride it till it's identified and sorted.

That's a big hole is that. I'd be replacing it. Annoying with having so much tread on it. I run plugged tyres on the car, but not on the bike.

Please don't put oil on your brake friction surfaces. Cast iron discs rust up a treat. A light sanding by hand with a fine wet and dry will shift it. Check the brakes are working and releasing and the discs aren't warped. Spinning the wheel and watching will suffice as a prelim. Then a quick squirt round the block may be all that's needed. If the caliper(s) and or pistons have seized and or the discs are warped you'll need to replace the discs and remove and refurbish or replace the calipers

Now get to the Gym

That bearing looks shot to me. Is that swarf on the axle. get it sorted and it'll steer better.

yes, change mot stations. If you hear a noisey bike, ask them where they go

So not a cable drive then

Look at a mountain bike

WD40 is a dewatering fluid. It has many uses. For siezed nuts/bolts use a dedicated penetrating oil preferably with graphite. You may have more success with an impact driver than smacking a spanner. Try tightening then loosening. Pop the wheel down to a local tyre place and let them have a crack with the air tools. Dont hit your ratchet drive with a hammer. It's not built for it and is expensive to replace.

I allways park the bike facing uphill and in gear if using the side stand. If it moves the stand will slip. If facing down hill the side stand can fold/flip up and the bike will tumble.

Good old RedX is the best petrol treatment. Tried and tested. As far as cleaning the oil If it's dirty, chage it

Or snap, whip round and chop your foot off.

Typical suzuki paint. You can get clear tank protectors to stick on the affected area or respray the tank with a proper laquer. 8 or 9 coats should do it

You can trim plastic mirror very well on a bench grinder. And please it's a mirror. Your bike doesn't have wings. It's not a 1960's Austin Cambridge

http://old.nabble.com/Yamaha-Virago-f13916.html

You using the gears properly? Change down for hills and keep the revs up. A lot of 125's struggle on the hills , specially if you're well built. Give it a service. a new plug can make a big difference.

Is it a cable drive? if so has the cable snapped? Is it diconnected at the speedo end. You'll find the experts hang out in pitstop, but i'm not one

Like an intravenous drip. Perhaps check the medical equipment sales on Ebay

Soft pads make the disc last longer. They make more dust and don't last as long. I prefer softer pads. However I have big hands and a good grip.

My bike has never had a service and now it won't start. Yeah yeah. It's a machine. It needs, some, maintenance. Basic stuff is easy to do and may save your life. Purchase or download a manual and have a go. Otherwise stick to the recommended maintenance schedule and stick it in the shop.

A poor connection will cause a hot spot. Silicone your crimps to keep the weather out. Another name for 5m of wire coiled up is ........a heater.