Colin the Bear

Found two youths drinking battery acid in my backyard. Called the Police and they put them on a charge.

Electricity from the battery goes out through the wires and returns through the frame. (earth). Put a meter on low range resistance to the feed side of the component and to the frame. (Bare metal) You should read the resistance of the bulb.

Polish the area with autosol and an electric toothbrush. This should blunt any burrs on the chips causing the tearing. There is no easy fix. It's a precision moving part that is left exposed to stone , flys etc. Lots of bikes have deflectors fitted and you can get an aftermarket universal part. Some fit a sleeve/gaiter to protect it. Check for drying insect remains after summer rides. Digestive juices eat the metal and the little bodies can become quite sharp when dried on. These will tear the seal as they pass through it. Only permanant fix is a replacement or a polish and rechrome. The look after them.

Clean everything thoroughly. Tin both parts then hold together with heat. Solder will only run where flux is. For small electrical jobs the stuff with the flux core in it is easiest. Remember it's a glue not an overcoat.

Me neitherhttp://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/smiley-music006.gif

I have many gloves, start your collection today. The first time you have a small spill with no gloves will be the last time you ride with no gloves. I think the gravel is still surfacing after 30 years

Have a look here http://www.maplin.co.uk/search?criteria=JUMP+STARTER Battery jump starter with compressor £19.99. Useful bit of kit. I've had mine years

VHT Very high temperature. Now if that was "It does what it says on the tin" stuff you should be able to ride the bike through a star.

If you don't know what your doing then lessons is always a good idea, in any walk of life. You need lessons to ride it after all.

Pads need to bed in. Did you put the pads back in the same place they came from? Moving them means they will have to bed in a gain. A warped disc will give poor braking. If the lever feels hard there's no air left in there. Braided hose is always a good idea on an old bike. The rubber ones swell as you apply the brake and some of the force is lost. Keep up the good work.

If you are, mechanicaly minded, have good spacial awareness, patient and able to understand and follow written instructions , it's a very simple job. If you're not, find someone who is.

If you're locking the wheel you're applying too much brake, simple as. As weight shifts to the front, the rear becomes lighter. As your speed decreases slowly release pressure, this is known as feathering. If you've seen the stunt videos of riders doing a stoppie, you've see an extreme version of the rear becoming light. I only use the rear for slow manoevering or loose surfaces. On some heavy bikes it has very little effect. When the wheel locks you have less stopping power and zero steering. Panic not and let go. It's very easy to freeze and hang on the brake. Locking the front is more of a problem. At slow speed there's little time to react but at high speed you have a chance to correct. If you squeeze the brakes it should only ever be a problem on a poor or contaminated surface. Tests have shown that the same stopping force can be applied in the wet, but over a longer distance, by gradually increasing pressure (on the front).

They're preset untill some plank drops it or it gets a bang somewhere along the production, delivery process. I always check

S'fookedsellit

Most glasses will fit under most helmets. Some fit easy and some take a lot of fiddling. http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/0012.gif

http://www.glassescrafter.com/en-US/Def ... rrency=USD

Seat looks good. It'll look better when it's been sat on for a few hundred miles.

Hamerite won't stick to alluminium. The primer you need costs as much as the paint.

Put a request on here http://partfinderuk.co.uk/?gclid=CNeHlN ... 4QodPALEMQ http://www.bike-breakers.info/ Or stick motorcycle part finder in google

I tried contacts but couldn't get on with them on the bike. Any little draught makes my eyes water with the resulting loss of vision. Prescription sunglasses are my preference. I got reactive lenses this time so no need to carry the spare pair with clear lenses. Another thing to keep in mind is that more expensive doesn't mean more safe. There's a lot of label and fashion snobbery with bike gear. You'll find me in every bargain bin in the shop whereas some wouldn't be seen dead in it

It's not about tough. Track racers wear leather for a reason, even in the wet. Leather slides in a spill , textiles snag and make you roll or spin causing limb damage. A leather jacket can be made weather proof with regular treatment of oils and wax, keeps the wind out, looks cool on and off the bike and smells great. It's a no brainer for me.

Or get it powder coated

Leather Jacket, leather gloves, Leather over ankle boots, Various under jacket layers for varying temps. Leather trousers if it's cold. Don't forget the neck area. Scarf , bandanna, neck warmer. Sun glasses

Sales talk , don't you love it. toobig? they shrink a little, too small? they stretch a little, It's broke in 5 mins, how odd you're the only one in 5 million sales,http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/liar.gif We can fix it, Jump up and down , oh sorry, have a new one. Quietly retrieve old one from stock room and put back on bargain rail. http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/whistle.gif All they want is your money. http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/evil_idea.gif Make them earn it

Start with manufacturers recommended and adjust up or down 1psi at a time to find your optimum. That rear looks quite high to start with so don't go up much.