Gerontious

But, then most people don't bother mentioning these important details when selling, even though that they are fully aware of it. In that case its the buyers fault for being a tight wad and not getting a HPI report. There is nowhere that the priciple Caveat Emptor is more important than when buying a used bike. £9.99 isnt such a huge investment when spending £100s or even £1000s and not just for ruling out any possible write-off status.

Engine oil isn't "very thick"... Especially not in warmer or warmish weather.

Have a care to your gear as the British weather can be.. erm.. temperamental. Be sure to have waterproofs available. There is nothing new or particularly unusual about doing a full course and tests in 1 week. I would imagine the on road lessons would concentrate on the known routes the examiners use.. so by the time you have your test you should know them and all the secret possible fails.. ie an easily missed 20mph stretch. by heart.

I have never... not once been asked during the Q&A about the write off status of my bike.. never. Nor have I volunteered it. which may or may not be naughty. But.. i figure if they dont ask.. why should I tell them. I gave its value as being what I paid for it.. and they never questioned that either. As for increasing the premium.. I have no way to measure this. I would suppose it lowers the premium as the bike will necessarily have a lower value. A cat D (in old money) is nothing at all.. you can get that just for a bike falling over and cracking a (no longer available) fairing panel. An automatic write off because it cannot be repaired with new parts. Informing DVLA.. i believe you must do this as they will need to issue a brand new V5. regardless of whether you have the original or not. Maybe contact DVLA to confirm this and they will tell you what part of the form needs to be filled in.. or what to put in any accompanying letter.

Courtesy of the motorcycling section of ADAC Easy to follow and an absolute doddle to create routes for use with a SAT NAV. translated. 1. Austrian Alps and foothills. 2. Bavarian Forest and Upper Austria (Czech border lands) 3. South Tyrol and Trentino (including the Dolomites) 4. Central Austria and Slovenia. 5. Croatian Adriatic Coast 6. Switzerland 7. Provence and the Cote D'Azur 8. Alsace and the Black Forest. 9. Luxembourg/Eifel and Saarland. 10. Emilia Romagna and eastern Liguria (Italy) 11. Tuscany, Marche and Umbria (Italy) 12. Pyrenees Over the years Ive tested a lot of these and they are generally fantastic... both the old favourites and some less well known but still fantastic roads. The emphasis is on the better roads.. with great tarmac. interesting landscapes and views. Not difficult or overly technical.. roads to be ridden for the simple joy of the ride. If you're planning on heading to any of these areas.. Then these may help with the planning together with more detailed maps and tour guides. (to fill in the gaps) All are easily downloadable to your computer. http://tinyurl.com/grdlq9b

I've always wondered why owners of the GS series so often reverse its name... Making it almost Suzuki(ish). So R1200GS becomes Gs1200. Like there's a hint of embarrassment or even shame. I don't think there's any other bike, or make, where this happens with such frequency.

No.. you can take this test as and when you think you're ready for it. if you want you can book it as soon as you have your CBT through the school you are training with. They may have tests block booked.. so its just a matter of deciding when suits you. Your school may also offer training aids to help you prepare. ask them.

We are the goon squad and we're coming to town. Beep Beep.

You have to bear in mind that these are a kinda 'one size fits all'.. some bars are notoriously hard to heat.. the heat being conducted away from the grips by whatever alloy has been used.. i think this is the case for some bars that are made from aluminium alloy. So, for these the heater has to work that much harder to maintain a temperature in the grips. Whereas other bars made from steel. will absorb the heat and not lose it so quickly due to conduction.

your thread title is mismatched to the content.. im going to assume the thread title is correct. No fork seals for a rear shock.. you normally have two choices. either have the original shock rebuilt. This isn't normally a DIY job. or replace it completely with an aftermarket or an original thats in better condition.

Ask them. [email protected] [email protected]

Ive had a Garmin Zumo 660 since 2010.. now 8 years old and still going strong. I had a problem updating the maps and after a call to Garmin customer support.. they asked me to return it to them. They updated the software and mapping. gave me lifetime maps and a 16gig SD card, new battery and then returned it to me by special delivery.. all for £50, Remarkable as the gadget was at the time 7yrs old. I thought it had had it and was going to be forced to replace it. Its done me proud over the years.. enabling hassle free tours across europe and preventing problems.. like when one of the guys forgot to fill his tank and finding a fuel stop became an emergency. I dont use any of its extra features.. just its screen. sound muted. all in all a great piece of kit. Garmin are highly recommended by me.. and their customer support (Southampton) is fantastic.

I think adding lights like this are a great idea.. not only for extra visibility and road 'presence' but because they offer a safety net.. if you're ever out after dark and your main headlamp bulb were to 'pop', you can still ride home legally (and safely).. no need to either abandon the bike or call out the AA etc. I added LED 'spots' for this very reason.. a good idea I thought for those times Im abroad in countries where having no lights at the front can and will attract an on the spot fine.

I'm not sure it's such a good idea to try riding across Pakistan on a bike with Indian number plates... I would probably head due north and consider having the bikes air freighted over the tribal areas and those in dispute and then turn west and through the 'Stans... To the Caspian Sea and take a ferry across.. Azerbaijan and then into Turkey from which point it gets a lot simpler. No to China. No to Russia.

Yes.. It's used mainly because it's highly resistant to abrasion.... So resists wearing through in a slide. Many manufacturers use a double layer at the usual impact points.. Some, more expensive jackets blend Kevlar with the cordura for even more wear resistance. But normal cordura is really quite tough.

You're right... but it should be noted that the recent changes are (according to the RAC) purely voluntary with no "law" to support it. see: https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/buying-and-selling-guides/changes-to-insurance-write-off-categories/ The need for a VIC (Vehicle identity check) was withdrawn in 2015. See: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/the-vic-scheme the new code for purely cosmetic damage.. that replaces Cat C and D is Cat S. (according to the RAC)

You will need to apply for a new V5.. whether you have the original or not. By sending the V62 to DVLA. I am fairly certain that it will also need a new (normal) MOT. Even if it doesn't.. it is I think a good idea.. for peace of mind. Your insurer may demand it anyway. They will tell you. I think thats about it for the (usually) minor damage from a CAT C or D. bearing in mind that a bike can be declared Cat C simply for falling over.. a cracked faring can do it.. particularly if the bike is a few years old and replacement fairings are no longer available.. the actual category it is given is purely subjective and down to the whim of the assessor. one might declare it a Cat C.. another a Cat D. and another.. not write it off at all. (this depends a lot on the actual claim) My own bike was declared a Cat C simply because it was stolen and not recovered until long after the original owner had been paid off.. the damage it had was due to scuff marks as it bounced around in the back of a van.. a bagster tank cover disguised that until i had it resprayed. It was sold to me with a new V5 and fresh MOT. that was all it needed to get it back on the road... this was back in 2005.

I would want one of them examined.. on the inside to ensure that its safe to be transported under a bike seat fully charged subject to that level of vibration. The factory that makes them is fairly reputable (and modern) as chinese factories go... but I would want at least some reassurance. bearing in mind they knock them out at a rate of knots. looks like they produce an infinity of types at 1,000 per day. (The website gives 370 results) And where rechargeable li-ion batteries are concerned.. a lot hangs on quality control.

Dubbin. sometimes called Dubbing. apply as directed.. it may cure or at least, minimise the leak and as a side effect will condition and extend the life of your boots.

I remember batteries like that.. from years ago.. so long ago in fact that I think it was likely in the last century. odd to think that people still buy batteries with a visible min/max level. so.. are designed to be topped up. and all the faffing about that goes with that.

Whoever you use be prepared for a bill. if the breakdown is the result of something simple that can be fixed on the spot, all well and good. But if it isn't and you need to be taken to a mechanic.. there will be a bill to pay and worse case a delay of a couple of days waiting for parts. So, its wise to be prepared for this.. with a credit card or the ability to withdraw cash.. and perhaps pay for a local hotel too. When I had my breakdown (clutch actuator broken) in Austria. I was faced with a €400 bill, which had to be paid in cash. I was taken to a dealership that happened to have a donor bike and the part was taken from that and swapped over. So, the bill covered the labor and the price of a new part for the donor bike.

If it were me.. i would likely go for one of the big UK companies.. most if not all will have partners in France and the rest of Europe.. AA. RAC. Greenflag. see which has the deal that suits you best. My strategy has been to use Carole Nash as my insurer and so I get European breakdown included.. I've used it twice and it was great both times. (in Germany and in Austria) https://www.moneysupermarket.com/breakdown-cover/enquiry/

I dont think there are any hard and fast rules.. try both and see which works best for you. If it still leaks then you'll need to identify why.

If you ever happen to be in Nottingham. The Industrial museum at Wollaton hall has a few Campions, a few of the 20 that are known to still exist as complete bikes. http://www.nottinghamindustrialmuseum.org.uk/about/transport/

Another Nottingham Motorcycle maker I wasnt aware of.. and apparently they made taxis too. as well as this oddity... though it looks much earlier than the 1920s