linuxrob

Good point Mississippi, use as many small locks as you can it will put them off hopefully and go for one with less locks to break, time is their enemy.

250 dream lovely bikes a much better bike than the Superdream even with only 5 gears, looked much better, suited the performance. mate had one, lovely comfy seat. you will move it on easy,

Depends on how tall you are John. I am 5ft 5ins and a bit and found mine to be OK round town but great over 50mph. Wrists got the brunt of it. It was so much fun i wonder why i sold it (2010) mine was an import F reg with MPH speedo. Pics please, we all want to see it. here's mine when it was clean.

Rear wheel out on the GS125 and new 3" x 18 K82 tyre fitted. While it was out changed the 2 wheel bearings and the sprocket hub bearing. full story, with pics here.

There are a few things to to consider when replacing rear wheel bearings on a GS125, also when you change the sprocket hub bearing. The bearings are: Sprocket hub bearing 6204 Left side wheel bearing6202 Right side wheel bearing 6302 All bearings are C3 clearance. I also chose bearings with 2 rubber seals (2Z). Before removal I noted the position of the bearing in relation to the hub. The left hand side is recessed approx 10.36mm into the hub. The right hand side is flush with the hub. T he first bearing to remove is the left hand side or the sprocket side (6202). To do this safely the wheel should be supported on blocks of wood to allow the bearing to drop out fully. With this and the spacer out the wheel is turned over and the right or brake side bearing (6302) can be drifted out. After cleaning the inside of the wheel hub the right hand side bearing (6302) is drifted in first. It fits flush with the hub. The spacer can be fitted any way round followed by drifting in the left hand bearing (6202) to the same depth as measured earlier. Rear hub bearing replacement The rear hub bearing on the GS125 is a 6402 C3 bearing. After the hub assembly is removed from the wheel the small spacer and rubber dust seal are easily removed. Unlike my Bandit and Z500 rear hub the spacer / adaptor behind the bearing cannot be just pulled back to drift the bearing out. The spacer / adaptor is used to drift the bearing from the rear. My 17mm ½” drive socket is the perfect fit on the space / adaptor for drifting. The new bearing has to be fitted to the cleaned spacer / adaptor then fed into the hub from the front before being drifted fully home. Di all this when the rear wheel was out to fit my new 3.00" x 18 K82 rear tyre.

Thanks Bender. Have a look at the MAG site too. Not much else we can do to put our concerns across.

There has been new developments. go here for full doc https://www.gov.uk/government/consultations/future-of-transport-regulatory-review-modernising-vehicle-standards/future-of-transport-regulatory-review-modernising-vehicle-standards#questionshttps://www.gov.uk/government/consultations/future-of-transport-regulatory-review-modernising-vehicle-standards/future-of-transport-regulatory-review-modernising-vehicle-standards#questionshttps://www.gov.uk/government/consultations/future-of-transport-regulatory-review-modernising-vehicle-standards/future-of-transport-regulatory-review-modernising-vehicle-standards#questions You can respond in a few ways to tell them your concerns (if any) do so by 11;45 pm 22nd nov 2021 here is part of the document: not the use of the words ANY, i repeat ANY Tackling tampering We will create new offences for tampering with a system, part or component of a vehicle intended or adapted to be used on a road. This will enable us to address existing gaps in the legislation, ensuring cleaner and safer vehicles. We will also create new offences for tampering with non-road mobile machinery (NRMM) and for advertising ‘tampering’ services or products. This will strengthen our ability to enforce compliance in this area. We are aware that the Law Commissions in both their first and third consultations on automated vehicles have considered tampering. We await their final recommendations and would welcome views on our proposals, as follows. Specifically, we would look to create: a specific offence for supplying, installing and/or advertising, a ‘tampering product’ for a vehicle or NRMM – this would apply where a principal effect of the product is to bypass, defeat, reduce the effectiveness of or render inoperative a system, part or component (the product may be a physical part or component, hardware and/or software) a specific offence for removing, reducing the effectiveness of, or rendering inoperative a system, part or component for a vehicle/NRMM and advertising such services a specific offence for allowing for use or providing a vehicle or NRMM that has had the operations described in the previous 2 points performed on it a new power to require economic operators to provide information, where a service/product they have supplied amounts to or enables ‘tampering’ with a vehicle or NRMM – this would apply in any of the above senses and include requirements to provide relevant information on the quantities of products sold or modified

Please be careful using any product that contains Hydrochloric acid on 300 series stainless steel parts. It can cause pitting and stress cracking, some grades are more corrosion resistant. Just use Harpic etc in the loo.

Well, November again and the handlebar muffs are refitted to the GS125. Put some cheap version of "grip puppies" over the £3.78 heated grips (still working 3 years on) to get rid of that hard plastic feel. Tested this morning and they feel great, more of an even warmth through the gloves. Will start the "oiling up" of the metal bits later this week. Decided to leave the last month of the tax on the Bandit just in case we can have a run out before the salt gets put down. To fill in time before lunch i sorted the screwdriver mess on the main tool rack in the shed, Also remembered to put the clock back on the bike too.

good advice as always Bob, check to basics first, my money would be on a vacuum carb balance pipe come adrift if it indeed on 3.

Good idea, I have loaned the leathers to a mate who can get into them, I need to loose 2 stone. Would love to pop them on and blast round on a track day. Did a few parade laps on the Z500 the other week in my 2 piece black jacket and pants. See what i can do over winter as the VJMC is hoping to hire Croft for a 2 day track day July 2022 as part of their 40th anniversary. here's me with the Z500 before the Durham Dales run 2008 and screen cap of some video i found of me riding the Durham Dales Run in 2009

It's now 40 Years since my last race at the old circuit (17th October 1981) here are a few pics of me and my RD400C on that day. Was anyone else there????

A manual is a must, just read it and have a good look round the bike no need to touch anything just look and see what you understand from the manual. watch many YouTube videos, take ALL with a pinch of salt, some people know what they are doing some are downright dangerous idiots. Tyres, brakes and suspension area priority. Compare all to the service history if you have it.

Had a great day out at the Tees Cottage Pumping Station Gala day here in sunny Darlington, plenty to do a see plus some bikes and cars on display, mine included.

Home from a great weekend at Croft. CMRC meeting and a good display from the club. Thanks to all who showed their bikes and organised the stand. Had a great blast around the circuit in the parade laps on my 1980 Kawaski Z500. what a great way to mark the 40 years since i raced here. Anyone who watched the parade laps please post pics for us to enjoy. Rob B

Looking good Bob, nice job. I have used my old Gunson colour tune on the GS125 and Z500 to good effect.

Cleaned up the Z500 for Bike Fest, Stamford Bridge on Saturday 10-4pm and York Vintage show at the racecourse on Sunday. Took a pic of the bike in the same spot as in Sept 1980. here they are. Bike fest is free but you have to pay to get into the York show. 1980 2021

Thought i would announce to the world my 1980 Z500 passes the 80000 miles last week, forgot to take a pic so did one tonight when i got back from the VJMC breakfast meeting at the Strawberry Fields cafe south of York.

Just came across this. https://www.ebay.co.uk/

Be careful. that oil pump has not been designed for a cooler, simple tapping off and returning it to the sump will divert ALL the oil it can and you end up with NON where it is needed. It need to be in SERIES with the oil gallery IE through the pump to the cooler and then back ideally to the filter then main gallery to the other parts of the motor. The GN125 and other motors like this use roller bearing cranks and the lub systems do not require the pressures or flow a plain bearing motor need. the main part that needs pressure are the camshaft journals as they are run into the head.

Ditto Bob, just in case anyone missed this the first time. The Z's 40th birthday running last year

Got the CarPro PERL out and did a bit of polishing of the engine, came up well.

Would never use a waterless wash unless there was only a thin layer of dust on my bike. Maybe for people in the places where water is either had to get or expensive? Will have to get one of those pet dryers.

Not tried that Mike, Ultra black???? Is it???. I use a quick detailer as a drying aid and top up in between waxes on the paintwork and frame. For all rubber, plastics and that includes my calipers and engine I use CarPro PERL diluted 1:3, a good silicon polish, dries well, not oily, and bring back the satin black well. will post a pic or 2 when i start polishing the engine etc in a few days, got some work to do in the house before i can get in the shed and play again. Used a few "bumper shine" type things over the years but PERL is my go to. You can use it neat on faded plastic and it lasts well. here is the clean of the Bandit motor i did in 2017 with PERL.

Did a 160 mile round trip on Thursday on the Z500. Down to Strawberry Fields cafe to meet up with the VJMC Yorkshire members then on to Fimber cafe nr Seaways cafe and home via Malton, Helmsley and Stokesley. Got court in a very heavy thunderstorm just after Malton. Roads flooded with very dirty farmyard water and spray from oncoming traffic. pants had dried a bit by the time i got home but the bike looked a wreck. more Detail Had to wait till next day to wash it. Even though it was still raining I could not wait any longer. Tank and side panels off for a separate wash. Bunged the petrol and vacuum pipes up and covered the air intake and exhaust outlet with plastic bags. Used to use Muc-Off until around 5 years ago when I discovered that the pre-wash used on the car is, in my option, far better and cheaper. This is Bilt Hambers auto foam. It is designed for use in snow foam lances and also from a pump sprayer. I use a 4 litre pump sprayer on the car which I have modded with an old tyre valve so can pump it up with my compressor and tyre adaptor to 40 psi (the relief valve on the sprayer blows off at around 50 psi). The concentration used is their recommended 4% so 40 ml of product to one litre of water. A 5 lt container of concentrate Auto foam will therefore give you 250 litres of cleaner, and all for just under £17.00. Compare that to even the concentrate of Muc-off at around £45.00 for 5lt giving 20 lt of cleaner. The application is the same method, just spray on leave for a few mins depending on temp and rinse off. I the centre setting on my hose trigger is used but the jet option is OK but does tend to soak me too. Have used it with the pressure washer on low setting and on a big fan nozzle taking care not to go too near the bike. As with the car, one application and rinse will get rid of around 85 - 90% of the dirt. The car takes approx 2lts of cleaner to cover it all (Ford Fiesta), the bike even less. It was dull and drizzling when I did the bike so went round about 4 times giving plenty of time to break down the grime. You could see the dirt moving with each spray. Gave the pipes and wheels a good agitation and the engine fins a careful brush with a soft detailing brush to work the cleaner in to the nooks and crannies. After the rinse off, bucket wash with a quality car shampoo (Bilt Hamber Auto wash) It was dried with the airline and my drying towel. A good result I think. The engine cases have dulled a little but that is due to the muck not the cleaner they will get their "blackness" back with a coat of silicon polish. Anyone else want to share their methods of cleaning??? Rob B