anth_85

chocolate hob nobs, the king of biscuits.

I'm not worried and I've run the bike exclusively on vpower since I got it but that was only 3500miles ago. I did a test and found I got about 3 or 4mph more on that which mostly offset the extra cost. My understanding is this machine splits the H20 into h2 and 02. 20% of normal air is 02 anyway and is the bit that burns with the fuel, but the h2 is quite reactive and I think it's that that will react with the carbon deposits and therefore remove them.

I've got in touch with a local company in regards to getting a power commander fitted to my vfr800 vtec and it remapped to try and smooth out the rather violent jolting transition onto vtec. They have come back with this this is the company https://www.turbopacs.com/services/hydroflow-carbon-engine-clean/ To say I'm skeptical would be an understatement. Has anyone ever heard of it and had got an opinion before I look elsewhere for somewhere that will do what I asked for?

I hate the term 'service' it can mean anything from an oil change to change oil, change oil filter change fuel filter change air filter change brake fluid change coolant check/adjust valves check/adjust chain check/adjust tyre pressures check/adjust headlight pattern +probably more I'd rather places just say we'll do this, this and this for this much.

what about something like a ninja 250? (it's not mine) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kawasaki-Ninja-250r/173738556889?hash=item28739ffdd9:g:I2cAAOSwWk5cO0A9:rk:1:pf:0 Obviously the bigger engine you go for the worse your mpg is going to be. I would have recommended a vfr800 like mine, but it's more like 42-45mpg.

my understanding is that it depends on your charging system and the battery. A lithium cell, of which multiple are put in series to make up to the correct voltage. An empty cell is about 3.2v, a full cell is about 4.2v, so they say the normal voltage is 3.7. I've made up a lithium battery pack from old laptop cells and used 3 in series, so that is 12.6v full and about 9v empty, that's fine for what I use it for, which is just charging phones/tablets ect when I'm away in our caravan. For a bike I suspect they do 4 in series, giving a full voltage of 16.8, a nominal voltage of 14.8, and an empty voltage of 12.8. So if your charging system has it's highest voltage at 14v, you're not getting to the nominal voltage nevermind to it being full. Then there is the issue of balancing. As I said it maybe either a 3 or 4 cell pack that makes up the whole battery. They should all stay about the same voltage as they are charged and discharged, but they sometimes drift a little. You might have one cell at 3.6v, one at 3.7v and one at 3.75v. Now that's fine until you come to stick it on a charger. If its a dumb charger, it just tries to get the battery upto it's full voltage, if one of the cells is a bit low it doesn't know that and keeps putting power into the whole thing, which can lead to the cell that is the highest voltage going over the 4.2v maximum, which can be dangerous. That is where smart chargers or battery management systems come in. They have connectors between each cell and across the whole battery, so they can tell what voltage each cell is at and restrict or apply extra voltage to the cells that require it. Admittedly this is all for lithium ion batteries. The tech used in motorcycle battery is LiFePO4 which is slightly different in regards to charge rates and voltages, but the same principle applies. This seems like a good read http://www.fastbikegear.co.nz/index.php?main_page=page&id=18&chapter=1

here you go, looks like it's more available than I thought, does still depend on your device though https://www.vodafone.co.uk/network/calling-features/wi-fi-calling https://www.o2.co.uk/connectivity/wifi-and-4g-calling

is that one of mini-towers that plug into your broadband and then transmit mobile signal over a small area like your home? If this is and it's available it's a good idea. If you have wifi and an iPhone you can make and receive called via wifi, at least I know you can via EE. I presume the other networks and android models can do the same. That totally negates the need for a signal booster.

I say I don't mind dull but I can't help thinking the tiger would have more long term interest. It's certainly the better looking of the two in my mind. Cheers @NeilM. I'll have a look at the 107. Got a feeling I may have had one as a rental at some point, is it rear engined or am i thinking of something else? The rear-engined one your thinking about is the smart car I believe. In regards to the 107/c1/aygo, while they are all made in the same factory I'd go for the aygo, purely for the looks being objectively better, in fact, I did about 5 years ago. My wife used it to do the 35mile away way commute, for that it was ideal. For anything else, (it was our only car) I hated it. I thought it felt cheap, tinny and I hated every second of it at 70mph.

Success, back on the road tomorrow

Update on this. Due to working full time and being a part-time matched better getting it sorted has been in bits and pieces. The new stator is in place, I couldn't find a proper gasket so had to use instant gasket which leaked oil all over the floor, so it all had to come back off and be re-applied. This time leaving it 24 hours before firing up and it seems fine. Test fires with the R/R hanging loose showed a much healthier voltage so I know all is working correctly. Last night I fitted the new R/R to the bike, took a lot longer than I'd like because my soldering iron tip is busted so joining the 3 wires from the stator took longer and resulted in a messier job than I'm happy with. I then found the R/R cables to the battery are about a foot too short and I wasn't fighting with the soldering iron anymore so I went and watched the football. New more powerful soldering iron getting picked up today and I should be done tonight. I know the 6th gen R/R is better than the 5th but I have fitted a fan to it too. I figured I have it all apart, it is not going to do any harm and I already have many spare computer fans so at worst it's a waste of 10mins, at best it extends the R/R's life.

That's my plan. Just need to find the right part!

ding ding ding we have a winner https://www.dropbox.com/s/nojnips7acnts97/Photo%2030-11-2018%2C%2021%2007%2000.jpg?dl=0

ok so ive jumped the gun a little I know. New R/R is here and it turns out ive ordered the wrong one. Its for the 5th gen vfr by the looks of the connectors. However now i have it apart the one for the 6th gen looks nothing like what I have in front of me. What I have is the 3 yellow wires, thats the same. but for the other connector mine has 2x red, 2x green and 1x black. The new one has the same minus the black wire. Looking at the photos of the 6th gen it doesnt have a second set, it has a red and black cable direct to the battery. So ive no idea what I have?? this is what ive got in front of me from the bike https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/88385-battery-or-stator-or-both/&tab=comments#comment-1090604 this is what ive ordered and has arrived https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/RR53.html this is what the website says i need https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/RR881-Regulator-Rectifier-CBR600-VFR800-CB900F-CBR900RR.html

ah yea, id watched that video before and considered fitting a vfrness. Typically now I might actually do it and I cant find one for sale in the uk.

The question is, where the hell is the R/R on the 6th gen VFR. Everything I can find online is for the 5th. I have a haynes manual at home so I'm sure it's in there. But I'd like to know what I'm dealing with.

I can get a hold of one. My usual one is in my caravan in storage for the winter. What test should I be doing?

yup 2003 how do you go about that? This company supposedly makes their own replacements, maybe they are better than stock? https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/RR53.html

I noticed the voltage on my battery has been a bit low recently. Often sitting about 11.8V when I get off the bike. My voltmeter is under the seat so I cant check it during a ride, the only thing I can see is the battery saver led on my heated grips flashing sometimes and not others. So I ordered a new battery from Tayna and somehow ordered the wrong one. It's 20mm too tall. Ive no idea how I've done it but I'm going to sort out a replacement that fits today for delivery tomorrow. I had to use my bike for work today so I put the old battery back on the bike, put the charger on over night and it took it 14.8v on charge which dropped to 12.8v when the charger was taken off. It then stayed at 12.8v for about 5mins before I had to leave. Which got me thinking the battery might actually be ok and it might be the stator, because if the battery was dead it would have dropped lower. I've got off the bike at work just now and it's at 11.7v with ignition on, it recovers to 12.2 with everything off. So I started the bike back up again and reved the engine which brought it upto 11.8v. So now I'm looking at replacing both. Can anyone give any advice? It's a vfr800, not that it should matter.

It's depressing for me thinking I'm probably going to have to work until 2050 before I can retire. That's if I stay in the same job. I have a decent pension at the moment and I've been paying in for 8 years, so I'll have 40 years in by the time I finish but I am not counting my chickens because I am certain the terms of it will have changed by the time I do draw it out. My hope for the shorter term though is that my wife's side of the family has some wealthier relatives so as morbid as it sounds we have to think about that money being passed down and we'll be able to make it work rather than have it sitting in bank accounts. So we are thinking of going into property development and getting some rentals going. It'll most likely be the money is passed to my in-laws and we split the profit, from the money they put in and from me being quite handy and doing the majority of the work myself.

I went through a phase of making my own lager from various kits. I do like it to have a fizz and doing that without a CO2 canister means you have to do a secondary fermentation in the bottle, that leads to a sediment forming in the bottle which re-mixes in as soon as you tip it to drink or pour. It doesn't look very appealing to drink after that so I kinda got a bit bored of it and in the end sold my equipment. I know you can have a lot of success with wine and ale kits, the woodford wherry was always highly praised by the people I talked about it with, but I am not an ale or wine drinker.

another £140 from hi5 this afternoon while sitting watching the F1 from yesterday

[/u] I dont like casino style bookies. There are offers you can do that aren't risk free but do stack the odds in your favour. I still avoid them though, partly for the reasons you say, I stick to sports now.

it is and it isn't really, the only maths involved is chunking the numbers into the calculator Once you've done 4 or 5 it starts to make sense and you can do each one in seconds. I'd recommend anyone just watches the video guides to start with, does the 2 offers both sites give you guidance for, for free (coral and betfred). You'll make £50. If you don't think it's worth it then no harm done and you've made enough for a takeaway and some beer.

that's pretty standard for casino style online bookies. I find with bet365 and william hill if you request a withdraw they will have it sitting there in pending until about 11pm that even then it gets processed and in your bank late the next working day. Others like betfred will have it sitting there in pending for 2-3 days before they process it, and again once it's actually processed its next working day. They all say withdraws take 3-5 working days, it's just some are a lot better than others. Casino and bingo ones seem to be the slowest though