Bogof

https://www.gov.uk/driving-theory-test/documents-you-need-to-take-to-your-theory-test

Oban - which isn't exactly central, but it's close!

Do cyclists actually HAVE eyes?

+1 for Scottoiler, then put used engine oil in it

Replace the relay and/or check all 4 indicator circuits for high resistance (probably caused by a bad earth) Fuses are over-current protection devices. If a 10a fuse pops repeatedly, there'll be a reason for it, most likely that a fault is causing too much current to be drawn by the circuit. Poor earth will cause it, or a fault with the relay (which could also explain why someone fitted a 15a at some stage) So check the relay by substitution, and then check each circuit with a multimeter.

More revs is probably the only way without modifying the bike (which would possibly be illegal, and would possibly invalidate your insurance unless you notify your insurer of the mods carried out)

Keep it in first gear so you're ready to pull away. Hold the bike steady and in the "safety position" with the rear brake applied to prevent any creeping, and so you're ready for pulling away. You shouldn't ever have both feet on the floor, unless you're likely to be stationary for a loooong time!

Treat it as just a normal ride, with a sat nav in your ear... and don't give up if you think you've done something wrong, chances are the examiner might not have seen it anyway! All he's looking for is a rider that can handle his bike on the road without putting himself or any other road user in danger. And remember, he wants to pass you... unless you give him a reason to fail you. And above all, enjoy it!

Take it to a workshop and get it pressed out, or... Heat the area and hammer it out, or... Soak it in lots of WD40 or similar and hit it hard, or... Drill it and grind it out and fit a new one.

Did you leave the compressor connected to the tyre all night?

Battery and/or charging circuit - the clue is in the lights going dim, and the clicking noise when you try to start it. Charge the battery then try again.

Just out of interest... which publication/group/thesis are you carrying out research for?

Perfectly safe, evven more so if you have been sufficiently and effectively trained for it,

Get it tested and that will provide your answer. Don't be tempted to ride it until you know whether it's legal or not. If it isn't below 33bhp then not only are you effectively riding without a licence, but it'd almost certainly invalidate your insurance cover. Not worth the risk IMO.

So why are they sold in sets of 2 for motorbikes, and 4 (or 5) for cars? Are car drivers twice as likely to lose them?

They are.

Fit these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/251371117922?lpid=83&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=83&ff19=0

...especially on a 125? Personally, I'd dig the stone out and then check the hole for a leak.

HID is short for hideous!

It seems they do... ironically

I apologise for posting Oh the irony...

Depends on your definition of fortune... That's from a trainer company in Kent - http://www.dexteritytraining.co.uk/motorcycle_careers.htm#FAQs - not what I would call a fortune!

Take a look at the DfT annual reports series, Road Casualties Great Britain, at http://www.dft.gov.uk/pgr/statistics/da ... ltiesgbar/ Information on motorcycling in Great Britain, including more analysis of motorcyclist casualties can be found in the annual DfT Compendium of Motorcycling Statistics

No it won't. Statistically, newly qualified riders have a 10% chance of being dead or seriously injured in their first year. Insurance premiums reflect that additional risk in the short term. Once qualified, you will want a bigger bike. More cc's equals more risk. Accordingly, your premium will reflect that additional risk. Wanting to train and pass the test in order to become a better, safer rider is commendable. Just don't expect to save money by doing so.

You need a tool and...