WD-40

I had a lot of trouble with soldering too. I could never seem to get enough heat into the wires to get a good connection but I cracked it. The key for me was to clean tip of the iron using one of these https://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d03301/soldering-tip-cleaner-brass-wool/dp/SD02265 and then tin the tip with solder. Keep cleaning and tinning it until you have a nice shiny layer of solder on the tip. That creates good heat transfer into the joint. If the tip is oxidised and dull you won't get the heat transfer into the joint and you end up with a cold solder joint where the solder sits on top of the wire instead of flowing into it. Another thing that helps a lot is rosin flux which is also cheap. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soldering-Flux-Rosin-Based-No-Clean-RMA-Resin-Kalafonia-AG-CHEMIA-35g-Metal-Can/202820445517?epid=22023830019&hash=item2f390a654d:g:myMAAOSw-v5dyhs4

Another possibility is the o ring around the seat can fail. In that case even if the float valve is sealing and stopping the flow of fuel, the fuel continues to leak past the o ring. You can see the o ring I'm talking about here https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_600_fazer/99/picture/carburettor_float_needle Or one more possibility is the springy part on the float valve that contacts the tab on the float can get stuck inside the float valve. Giving it a clean can free it up

There's no o rings on the drain screws. Did you check if the drain screws are tight? Most likely the problem is not the drain screws, it's the float valves not sealing and the fuel is dripping off the lowest point which is the drain. It could be the float bowl gaskets but that's less likely. A lot of the time the float valve and seat just needs a clean and they reseal. If cleaning doesn't work you can get after market rebuild kits from the likes of wemoto.com or you can get genuine Yamaha parts from fowlersparts.co.uk

I'm not an instructor and it's a long time since I did my test but 1. Wait, don't trust indicators. Don't pull out in front of anyone. 2. Always do a lifesaver before you move off. Which to me means look over your shoulder. 3. Brake, you should never be coasting. Always on the throttle or brake.

[mention]gymwitch[/mention] That's true. I think a lot of people who are victims of abuse think why did this happen to me? This doesn't happen to other people. There must be something wrong with me. When the truth is there is nothing wrong with them, they were just in the wrong place at the wrong time.

Well done. I'm sure you learned a lot by re building it. Hopefully your son has learned to check his oil level once in a while too

If you can weld I think that is the most effective way to get a stuck bolt out. If you get a washer and a nut with an inner diameter greater than the outer diameter of the stuck bolt so the nut and washer fit over the stuck bolt and then weld the whole lot together. Work the bolt back and forward. If the weld breaks do it a few times and hopefully the heat cycles will break the bolt free.

@James in Brum Terrible thing that happened to you. Made me feel sick to my stomach reading it. There is unfortunately a small percentage of evil people in the world and you were the victim of one of them. Don't blame yourself for any of it. It wasn't your fault. You did nothing wrong. You've got nothing to be ashamed of. It might not feel like it but you are very strong for finding a way through it and keeping going.

You could get one of those cheap voltage gauges from ebay to keep an eye on the voltage as you ride

Sorry to hear you're having a hard time @fastbob. This covid thing is just as damaging to mental health as it is to physical health. Sounds like you've fought back from adversity in the past so you know you can do it again. Good idea with the metal health thread. Getting things off your chest can be a great help.

Sometimes people don't want you to change because they're happy with the way things are. They see you changing as a challenge to the status quo so they fight against it to protect what they've got. Or they might be worried that if you change you will leave them so they try to pull you back into your old ways. Or they see you improving yourself when they can't so they take it as an insult, you think you're better than me type thing. There's a million reasons why people might not want you to better yourself. Don't let it get to you. If you're improving your health keep doing what you're doing. If they can't be happy for you chuck em.

Chain too slack or worn sprockets would be where I'd start. Have you ever adjusted your chain?

I'm an electrician

Are you qualified to be working on someone else electrics? If not and something goes wrong in the future it might come back to you. Better to get a proper electrician to give it a once over.

Can't help you with what brands to buy. I don't think you need top of the line gear. I've been riding for years with a cheap jacket and trousers that I bought at a bike show. I don't even know what brand they are. In the winter I just put plastic wet gear on over them. Does the job fine. As for riding, on cold mornings you have to be very careful on the smaller side roads, like coming out of housing estates. They can be very slippery. Once you get onto a main road you're fine. You have to use some common sense too. If there's obvious snow or ice on the ground get the bus

Nice back drop. You might be able to buy new panels for it. Not sure if that's the correct one for your box https://shad.co.uk/products/shad-sh50-replacement-frame-d1b50emr

Those bikes are mainly bought by youths and youths don't use forums. You'd be better off starting a fat, baldy, grumpy, auld lad BMW/Harley section

Did you buy the bike from a dealer? If yes bring it back and let them sort it. Was the oil in the air box engine oil? If the engine oil is over filled it can get pushed up into the air box through the crankcase vent. Check if your oil level is high. If it's too high you might as well change the oil and put the correct amount in. If the air filter is saturated with oil it could explain the bike cutting out if it's not getting enough air flow through it. Get a new air filter and clean out the air box. If you bought it from a dealer let them do it

Did you measure the battery voltage? The starter relay clicking like that is usually because the battery voltage is low.

It's shown in JRH's diagram. Follow the wire from the positive battery terminal. Battery positive to a bullet connector, to 30A main fuse to a bullet connector, to 6 pin connector, to Ignition switch, back to 6 pin connector, to 4 pin connector, to engine stop switch, back to 4 pin connector, to ignition coils

Is that the right manual? http://www.manualedereparatie.info/en/download/Kawasaki-GPX-750-R-ZX-750-F1-Service-Manual.html Going by that manual it's TCI not CDI so the ignition coils get power from the battery. And ground through the TCI.

I don't know much about 2 strokes either but I think worn reed valves could cause compression to be pushed back through the carb

Congratulations on the new bike. Hope it serves you well

If you don't follow the terms of the service schedule your warranty will be void. No warranty. If your brand new bike blows up after 1000 miles it will be tough luck. I'd find out the price of following the service schedule by calling them and getting a quote and decide after that if it's worth following or not.

Maybe a bit of gravel on the road caused the front to wobble as you turned in?