WD-40

Here's my basic explanation of electricity. It might clear up voltage and current for you. I think it's right but do your own investigating. Electricity is all about electrons and the flow of electrons. Atoms have positive charges at their center called protons. They have negative charges called electrons orbiting around the positive protons. Under normal conditions the atom has an equal number of positively charged protons and negatively charged electrons so the two balance and there is no net charge, the atom is neutral. If the atom gains energy through light, heat, magnetism etc, the outer most electron can gain enough energy to leave it's atom and join another atom. Remember the electron has a negative charge so the atom that lost the negatively charged electron now has more positively charged protons than negatively charged electrons so it becomes positively charged. The atom that gained the electron now has more negatively charged electrons than positively charged protons so it's now negatively charged. Atoms always want to get back to a neutral state so an attractive force is created between the two atoms that draws them together. That attractive force is Voltage. So Voltage is a force create between two areas of different charge. That's why when you measure Voltage with your multimeter it's always between two point. You're measuring the difference in charge between the two points. An example would be a battery. The positive side of a battery is positive because it has a lack of electrons. The negative side is negative because it has an excess of electrons, so a voltage is created between the two terminals. Current then is just the continuous flow of electrons. Resistance is the opposition to the flow of electrons. There's lots of videos on youtube about it.

Nice one You can't kill a Honda!

The only way you could get 0.04V is if the chager wasn't connected to the battery when you took the measurement because if the charger was connected to the battery, even if the charger wasn't doing anything you would have seen battery voltage of about 12.6V so it must not have been connected to the battery. Measuring the voltage across a charger when it's not connected to a battery isn't a valid test because some chargers won't do anything until they're connected to a load. If you want to measure the charger voltage you have to connect it to the battery. You should see a voltage above 12.6V when it's connected. That shows that the charger is charging the battery but it doesn't tell you how fast it's charging. You would have to do a current test for that. I think you're getting voltage and current mixed up. You could say it sends current but you can't say it sends voltage. That doesn't make sense. The charger voltage will always be higher than the battery voltage. It has to be higher for current to flow from the charger into the battery. When it goes onto trikle charge it reduces the current down to a very small amount not the voltage. The voltage will always above battery voltage. Trikle charge just means charging with a small current.

I agree with Stu. The timing could be out because the cams weren't put in right or the cams could have skipped some teeth on the cam chain, or the vavles were adjusted wrong. You can sometimes tell that's been done because one of the adjusters is sticking up a good bit further than the other one because it's been turned in or out a good bit more than the other one. I don't think it's a compression problem because it had enough compression to fire once so it has enough compression to run and if it fired once it must be getting fuel and spark. I'd check the timing and the valve clearance first and go from there.

I do the same. Mainly because the spary cans are a rip off. You get a couple of applications from a spray can and they're empty. A bottle of gear oil is the same price and lasts years. As you say the lube that's doing the work is sealed inside the chain by the o rings so when you're applying lube you don't need to apply much, just enough to wet the outside to keep the weather off the chain and stop it rusting. The only downside of the gear oil is that you have to apply it more often compared to the sticky spray lube

I think it's because when you charge a battery it gives off hydrogen and oxygen gases. They can ignite from the spark caused by removing the charger clamps. I remember watching a mechanics show on Discovery channel a few years ago called Jock's Garage and the guy was charging a battery that was located in the car's boot. The gases from the battery must have got trapped in the boot because when he took the charging clamp off the battery it blew up in his face and got acid all of the boot of the car

Oil used to preserve wood so I don't think it will do any damage to it.

If you're doing engine work you need one. If you buy the tool and do the work yourself instead of paying a mechanic to do it the torque wrench pays for itself on the first job.

That's true on AC CDI. It should start with a flat battery since with AC CDI the CDI gets it's power from a coil in the stator so when you kick the engine over the coil generates the power to the CDI. But I think on DC CDI the power for the CDI comes from the battery so in that case I think you need a charged battery to power the CDI. We're not sure if he has AC CDI or DC CDI so as an experiement I'd charged the battery and try to start the bike. If it starts with a charged battery it must have DC CDI. If it starts measure the voltage across the battery with a multimeter. It should be around 13V at idle and rise to around 15V as you rev the engine but not go higher than 15V. If the voltage stays around 12V or lower the charging system isn't working. You will have to diagnose why or the battery will go flat again and the bike won't start.

Yes is the answer. Some need more than 100Nm but the 60Nm will do the job for most bolts. Have a look at the torque values in the service manual. There's usually a page in the near the start that lists all the various torques. https://www.carlsalter.com/triumph-service-manuals.asp

Yep they the same colours as in diagram will unplug the kill switch tomorrow and join the Red and black ignition wires together as you say and try that No don't do that. The wiring diagram you put up is different to what you've got on your bike so don't follow those instructions.

Without the right wiring diagram I can't really help you. Are the wire colours at your CDI the same as in the wiring diagram?

Looking at the ignition wiring on diagram they aren't connected to my ignition switch and old switch was only wired with the red and black wire same as I done. Maybe what you put up isn't the correct wiring diagram then. If it's not the correct wiring diagram what I just said in the last post could be wrong so don't follow it.

[strikeout]There's a cut down version with the wires that are part of creating the spark. Here's what I would do. I'm not a mechanic so it's up to you if you want to follow it or not. The safety cut outs that affect spark work by grounding the the signal side of the pick up coil when they're closed. The pick up coil is what tells the CDI when to spark. In the diagram the pick up coil is to the right of the magneto. The red/black and green wires go to the pick up coil. Red/black is the signal to tell the CDI when to fire, green is the ground for the pick up coil. The safety cut outs work by grounding the red/black wire. You can eliminate the safety cut outs as a variable by unplugging them. So unplug the kill switch, unplug the side stand switch and unplug the ignition switch. That will eliminate all the safety cut out. In the connector going to the ignition switch join the red and black wire. That will put 12V from the battery to the CDI. That's the same as the key being in the on position. That should be enough to creat a spark. Take the spark plug out. Put the bike in neutral and crank it and check if you've got spark now. If you've got spark now the problem is in one of the components you unplugged. If you've still not got spark. You will have to check the wires at the CDI using your multimeter and see what is missing.[/strikeout] You've linked the wrong wiring diagram for your bike so don't follow those instructions.

Looks to be the same diagram in both of your links. I don't see a neutral light on that diagram. Is your neutral light part of a gear indicator? Check if the wire colours match up with what's on your bike. Check the colours at the CDI and ignition switch. If they do match then we can use the diagram to go through things one at a time. There's a chance that your new ignition switch isn't making a circuit connection. If that wiring diagram is correct we can use it to work that out.

I never heard of this brand until I signed up here. After a few months of seeing the problems people have with them I can see that these bikes are trash. You can't even get a proper workshop manual or wiring diagram for them. They're all tarted up to look quality but underneath they are rubbish.

Did it ever work after you put the new ignition in? If you can get a wiring diagram we can help you work through each possible cause logically one by one. Without a wiring diagram you're just trying random things hoping to get lucky.

It could be something simple like a spark plug. If you've got another spark plug try it. You could try your old ignition coil. The new one could be faulty.

You can't directly test the CDI but you can test the wires going to it. If they're all as they should be you know the CDI is faulty. You would need a wiring diagram to know what each wire should be. I'd guess a lot of these bikes use the same wiring so you might be able to work out what wire is what off a different modle wiring diagram. How many wires are going to the CDI and what colour are they?

If it's not starting all you can do to check the stator is a resisance test. Unplug the connector going to the stator. I'm assuming it's a three phase stator so there should be three wires that are the same colour. Usually yellow or white. The resistance of a good stator is very low. Around 1 ohm or less. That means to get an accurate measurement you have to take into account the resistance of your test leads. To find out the resistance of your test leads put the meter to resistance and touch the test leads together and whenever reading you get, take that away from what you measured for the stator resistance. When you know the resitance of your test leads measure the resistance between every pair of wires in the connector. They should all be around the same resistance. If one is noticeably higher than the others it means one of the phases is damaged and the stator should be replaced. You also have to check the resistance between each wire in the connector and ground. Set the meter to the highest resistance. Touch between each wire and ground. It should show OL or a very high resistance. If the restance is low it means that the stator is short to ground and you need a new stator. Having said all that. With a fully charged battery most bikes will still run even if the stator has failed or is totally unplugged. They run until the battery goes flat. Then they cut out and can't be restarted because the battery has gone flat. Maybe your bike is set up different though. Without a manual it's hard to say. I would suspect that your problem is more likely to be a a bad connection or broken wire somewhere.

You've had a few problems with that bike haven't you? Maybe you should let a mechanic ride it. If it doesn't feel right they'll know pretty quickly.

There was probably a burned connector so someone replaced it with those spade connectors. You could do the same again. That's the easiest repair to do but they tend to break and corrode so you could have the same problem in the future. You could solder and heat shrink but if you've never soldered before you might stuggle with that. It's easy when you know how but not so easy if you've never done it before. You would need an iron, solder, heat shrink and some flux makes it easier. You could get a OEM style connector from somewhere like that https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/. You crimp the new terminals on and push them into the block connector.

Have you got cookies turned off? I think the internet likes cookies. I prefer fig rolls

Gear oil isn't sticky. It's oily

I agree with Richzx6r you might have an intake leak. Try spraying some wd40 around the intake rubbers when the bike is idling and listen for changes in the RPM.