eastanglianbiker

as its labour only you should expect about 2 hours labour costs most garages charge anything from £35 up to £65 an hour roughly for the forks,and your rear wheel alignment is something you have to learn to do yourself as other op said if you look down where the rear wheel spindle goes through the frame you should see lines on the frame and a mark on the plate the spindle goes through counting from the front both sides should be on the same mark,and if your chain is to tight then you need to loosen the main spindle slightly and the adjuster bolts in the rear of the plates then move wheel forward slightly untill you get the correct amount of free play then tighen everything up again,of course if you are not sure ask the garage to do it and also ask if you can watch so you know how to adjust it in future when doing your routine maintaince

according to parts website the seal is only a couple of quid so its not going to break the bank buying one

what do you mean it doesnt look right it should be fine on centre stand with handlebars pointing to the left fully and locked in place dont forget some bikes smaller i must admit dont have side stand at all so have to be on centre stand with lock on.

its worth what ever someone is willing to pay for it prices could vary from £150 to £1000 depending on condition service history number of owners current mot and over all condition but as we are not really a free valuation service please feel free to pop into newbies and introduce yourself if you plan on sticking round

if you have got that then yes but you only need a very fine film round the outer edge of the new oil seal its just to make sure it doesnt leak,if you havent got instant gasket then something like blue hylomar is next best thing to use

downpipe isnt connected properly?? what at the engine end or the end where all 4 pipes meet up?

you should be able to prise the old seal out of the case from the outside of it using a small screwdriver into the seal and gently lever out place screwdriver into seal using the hole in the middle of the seal then pull outwards,to replace the seal i would make sure the seal hole in the casing is oil free and dry and apply tiny coat of sealant round outer edge of new seal,it should tap in very easily and they only cost a couple of quid to buy new as well so not to drastic a problem

or not spread the gaps out on the rings so the comp can pass straight up side of piston

doesnt matter how much the engine is turned on a pushrod engine as the cam has not been emoved from the chain or drive cogs so cam timing will not have altered,you dont need to line anything up on a top end rebuild on a pushrod engine so the problem has to be either compression or lack of spark

you would be surprised if you got one of the sump bolts and wound it into a thread in a piece of alloy untill you thought it was *tight enough* and then checked what torque you had actually done it up to you would be shocked as to how far you have overtightened it

in this case not important when removing damaged sump as its scrap anyway but have to agree when removing a good sump thats going back onto the engine,and make sure you use a good quality torque wrench as most of the time 10mm headed bolts with 6mm thread only need toing up to less than 10ftlbs

get a new gasket ordered from suzuki as well for the sump you might need to drop exhaust off to get sump out but im not to sure you will be able to tell by looking make sure you clean all the old gasket off the underside of the engine before fitting new sump to engine and its normally all 10mm headed bolts holding sump on so make sure you dont over tighten them as they will shear fairly easy

did you use a new gasket between the head and cylinder? have you located the pushrods correctly?have you installed the piston rings correctly on the piston without breaking any as you put the barrel back on these are just some of the reasons you may not have compression

ptfe only any good if its going to mean the bolt will tighten in the thread as you dont want it vibrating out whil riding,if the engine has got seperate sump you are better off removing the sump and taking it into engineering shop or decent garage to get either a time sert or helicoil put in it then refitting the sump after washing it out making sure no welding bits are left to transfer in the oil round the engine

OP made a whole thread somewhere that mentions his baffle free bean can. didnt see that post so based it on just this one will teach me to read other posts in future lol to check the plug take bike out on a ride then after some time running fairly fast stop the bike and remove spark plug and see what colour the tip is in the guide section on the forum there is a chart to help you tell what colour means what

correct me if im wrong here but i always assumed white smoke is condensation and or water getting hot or burning and oil is blue smoke

op doesnt mention a different exhaust just air filter,what kind of filter have you fitted as it might be running weak now like others said and if its been left overnight it will need to use choke again to start as engine is cold and needs to warm up

a mate of mine started out as just a bike cleaner and collecting and delivering customers bikes in the company van,when not on the road he would hang out in the workshop helping out where he could and was allowed to then gradually got allowed to do more and more on the bikes untill in the end the company put him through the correct training to work on the bikes he is now workshop manager and has been with the firm for nearly 15 years

you have got the main tope gasket which is rubber and can be reused a few times but in the end they do go brittle and end up leaking and also the bolts have rubber seals on the stems as well so check its not them leaking numbers 2 and 7 in this picture http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gsf600-1999 ... ml#results

if it has damaged the thread it might be easier and quicker to just replace caliper with good 2nd hand one off ebay

i think the op has secretly been drinking with zod and been time travelling with him in their own parralel universe

need to check oil with bike upright not leaning over so iit will now have far to much oil in it

open the fuel cap and you will see the bolts that hold the cap to the tank check the inner rim of the cap plate and see if there is a hole there like a bolt is missing that is often the breather hole but like stu said when it cuts out open cap and if you hear a whoosh sound then its creating a vacuum in the tank due to blocked breather ,otherwise drain tank through fuel tap if you have got 2 hoses on it does the tap have on res and pri stamped on it or on off res but either way remove tank drain it and then put fresh new fuel in and see what happens.

the bbc have now pulled the plug on all the remaining episodes of this series but are still selling tickets to 4 live top gear events over the summer in europe so the news report said earlier,i tend to agree if the bbc get rid of clarkson any of the other channels could snap him up and start a new series with identical format just different name and top gear as we know it would die very quickly