eastanglianbiker
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Everything posted by eastanglianbiker
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YAMAHA FAZER FZS 600 Running Problem ...H e y a l p !!
eastanglianbiker replied to polecat's topic in Pitstop
to tell if it is carb rubbers start it up and spray wd40 around the rubbers if revs increase then the rubbers are drawing air in and need replacing -
if the fairings are still secure you can tape over the cracks just like you can tape up a cracked bumper on a car so there are no sharp edges on it or where the panels can slip leaving a sharp edge
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or get a can of switch contact cleaner and spray it up into the under side of the ign
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looks like a very tatty standard pipe to me dont think i would be spending £100 on it to be honest exhausts are now down to mot tester on the day as long as it hasnt got "not for road use" stamped into it then some are willing to let very loud pipes go others not so if your pipe is not blowing then try for mot and see if it passes
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Young, free and single?
eastanglianbiker replied to Harri's topic in Old Motorbikes, Projects and Restorations
think you will find a few 600cc versions around of the yamaha as well -
put the 2 plug wire in cut cut the wires off and run to seperate switch turn ign off then flick switch to kill engine not ideal but should work
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welcome to the forum pop into newbies and introduce yourself,its worth sticking about on this forum its one of the better ones out there.Now have you taken the full loom,switch gear,cdi unit,coils and all the relays from the original bike as well and made sure that you have got all the earths correct to the frame and engine and that none of the wires have been choopped and connected wrongly?
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I'VE DONE IT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
eastanglianbiker replied to Psychybikey's topic in CBT, Test and Advanced Training Information
well done on finally passing changing centre done the job nicely for you well done to your trainer as well for not saying anything about it being a cbt ride that way he stopped any panic setting in about right and wrong and you just had to go on what you know you should be doing,now you can join the smiles for miles club -
also dont sit there with cluch lever pulled in while in neutral all you are doing is allowing the oil to throw out off the plates better off letting go of the lever then pulling it in to select 1st when you need to,also as othersaid chain tension can have an effect on how big a clonk it is
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stu on here has got a really nice sv650 for sale might be worth having a chat to him
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1st and 2nd gear are the ones that get abused by numpties learning to try and wheelie or just from jamming it through gears without clutch but not getting revs right,often means selector is bent or badly worn as others said often requires engine strip down to repair
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can you not get a decent socket on it and turn it untill it either comes undone or shears off
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did you send it off or did examiner if it was anyone other than you contact them to make sure they sent it off and on what date just in case its sitting on a desk forgotten about
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what else can i say well done for admitting you found the reason tho
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better off taking thermostat out and testing it before paying out for a new one take it out put it into a saucepan of water and heat it up the hotter the water gets the more you should see the stat open if it doesnt open at all then its dead,also if the stat has been removed then that can cause same syptoms of over heating as the water flow is unrestricted and flowsthrough rad to quick to cool
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shove hose in top of engine and allow it to drain out the bottom for a while i guess,and yes it is corrosive to the tinternals but as its not staying in there it wont make much difference either that or buy a bottle/tub of distilled water from halfords and use that
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sounding like head gasket does the expansion bottle have used gas smell to it from the bubbling as it is likely to be leaking from cylinder to waterway on the gasket somewhere if it is leaking at all,im sure there is something you can buy to do gas test as well but i might be wrong.water might be getting into the oil as well but its not normall for tank to bubble up
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alan who the fook is alan u is alan i is not alan and just to confuse it even more he isnt alan either
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first thing is check compression and also end float in crankshaft if it is the big end its not that hard a job to do as you buy the crankshaft complete with conrod attached so all you need to do is open cases split crank out and replace http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-Cr ... 2410wt_966
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yep sounds like a coil or a pick up to me as the coils feed 1 and 4 and the other feeds 2 and 3
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if he is going for big bore and gas flowing then surely he will want bigger valves to help it breath and longer duration cams with slightly more and longer lift on them,and coping with the extra i would go stainless one piece valves and phosphorus bronze valve guides made to suit the valves and inserted into the head
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the battery should read 12volts when engine off and been sitting while then start it up and you are looking for about 12.8-13 then at 3000 rpm looking for about 13.5 but no more than 16 that could mean reg/rectifier probs if going to high
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the 500 will need money spending on it soon if it hasnt already been done on things like cam chain and tensioner but will be easier and more reliable than the old 250 as that will be on points ign system and not electronic like the 500,but at the end of day do you want a 250 that vibrates like mad at 50+ or a 500 that vibrates at above speeds limits
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if the 500 has had regular servicies then it should be fine what year is the 500 how many miles a year does the mileage work out at and how many do you plan on doing a year on it
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well done keep at it and its starting to sound like you will be making an appearance at next years rally at this rate