Chrissb6

The drain on your battery is minimal (up to 4 amps) and so that you don't forget to turn them off when not in use there is a bright LED on the on/off switch! That's what it say's on the advert! So at 12volts that's 48 watts max power and after initial warm up even on the coldest days they should not be running no more than 50% that will be around 20 watts total which is no more than your stop light bulb on. So with that figure in mind l would say its well within the scope of your bikes electrical system thats if everything is wired up and working correctly. I would revert back to the original wiring instructions and connect them direct to your battery. Start the bike up without the lights on and check the charging voltage to the battery before all else it should be no more than 14volts if all is OK, now switch on the grips full power without the headlights on and see if they heat up, again check the charging voltage to the battery it should still be around 14 volts, The power consumption of these grips is less than a 50 watt headlight bulb so the grips should be getting more than enough power to make them work, if they don't then you might have some faulty grips or controller, If the voltage drops below 12volts at the battery with the engine running l think there's and electrical fault on your charging circuit. Hope this helps and your soon sorted.

Reads good to me mate, should pay for itself in no time in keeping the value in your bike then there's the security which is always a plus. Just make sure its well bolted down.

I know a cyclist who hasn't a driving licence, what would happen too him ? I'm told he will be fined and just like any other none registered driver caught they will stick the points on when he applies. I personally know a guy who's son went right off the rails, the little shit had over 20 points on his licence before he even applied for it!

it needs a good run mate

Hi l was talking to a guy the other day who's a very keen cyclist. We were talking about the modern led lights and just how good they are. He went on to tell me that the police are now nicking cyclist who run with the very bright LED cycle lights. Apparently you can get fined and 3 points on your licence should you get pulled. "Dammed if you do dammed if you don't comes to mind"

aaah but how much? lol well if you think that's condensation i'll cling on to that any thoughts on the plug? me too! If that motor has only been fired up a couple of times then it's probably not been up to full operating temperature. The plugs will be showing a rich mixture from the choke being in operation. Is the bike legal can you take it out for a spin? I suggest you do if possible before you tare it down and find nothing wrong!

ZX10 was the same mate, was very finicky to start as said. Full choke gets it started then slowly drop the choke to half way and start to blip it till it gets warm.

Just a thought, is the bike stored in a cold damp place? if so, you will get a lot of vapour out of the zorts on start up in the cold weather though this should disappear once the motor has warmed up. You could be running it on choke for too long l'm thinking. My old zx10 with its manual choke was finicky at the best of time when cold. It would take full choke to fire it up but as soon as it fired l needed to blip the throttle and get on half choke to get it to warm up, running it on full choke it would just run splutter and die. Have a look at your plugs, the colour of these should tell you the state of the engine. Top tip! Look for the silly things before you tear down the motor . Best of luck

Hi Mate l've read it as you wrote it, you made no mention of tiny split or road legal you just said split and almost bald to me that's scary and needed a mention. The stock tyres fitted to your bike are well tested and more than good enough for you to run on the roads. For sure l think that once you have ran the new tyres in, you will be very very surprised just how much performance you have lost in the old tyres especially if you fit identical tyres to the one's your taking off. As said, make sure you run the new tyres in and don't be leaning to hard into the corners during the winter months, wait till the sun comes out! Stay safe PS Sorry for the rant, but better to say and try and avoid a drama than say nothing.

Looking for a new pair of tyres for my RS 125! Front tyre is split and rear tyre is almost bald. From that description of your tyres alone, l would say you are very lucky even to be posting this thread. Mr think about it! Those tyres are your only connection between this world and the next. Forget about buying trick tyres, stock tyres are more than good enough for road use "if kept in good condition", there's no tyres available and never will be that allow you to tear around in the winter. Winter riding is all about staying safe and surviving don't become another statistic. Be it pushbike moped or superbike never disregard your tyres. Note: If your lucky and don't crash you might get caught by the police for that you'll be nicked get 3 points per tyre and might be forced into a retest, if you have an off the insurance company will wash there hands of you. I might be coming across as sounding like an old fart going on at you here Mate, but I've lost some good Mates along the way doing much the same. Stay safe, save the tearing around for the summer and track days.

White smoke is not normally smoke it's steam! Water leak - head gasket is where l would place my bet.

im sorry this post confused me a little.. Your saying about the gearing may of been changed to give more top speed, which would make the pickup sluggish, i agree.. BUt if thats the case.. Why would be want to drop a tooth on the rear sprocket? Dropping a rear tooth gives more top speed again. So if his gearing has already been changed for more top speed, and messing up his pickup, why would he want to make it suffer more?? Adding a tooth to the rear sprocket improves acceleration and torque distribution.... Not dropping a tooth Lol Mate your absolutely right! Must be my age catching up on me!! He needs to put a tooth on not off. Sorry to confuse you all

Hi have the indicators worked at all since you have fitted them? The fuse is not an issue here, the difference between a 10 amp fuse and a 15 amp fuse is that a 10amp fuse will carry 120 watts and a 15amp fuse will carry 180 watts, being that your indicators only require power to light 2 x 21 watts plus the flasher unit you have plenty of power spare with a 10amp fuse. Check you resistors are connected correctly.

Hi, is the bike stock apart from the restrictor? If the engine is running fine you might want to check the gearing. If the sprockets have been change to give it more top speed you will suffer trying to launch it. Have a tooth count on the front and rear sprockets. If there stock you might want to consider dropping a tooth on the rear sprocket to help you get away.

Hi, a loose connection will make an high resistive joint causing a volt drop to the unit, hence the shut down mode kicking in. Get the joints sorted first before you call in with a faulty unit.

Spoked wheels have inner tubes. Otherwise the air would leak through the holes. The tyres are designed for use with a tube. There's plenty of spoke tubeless wheels out there. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=spoke ... 38&bih=519

Hi ya WD40 is not really a releasing agent, here's some info that might be of use http://www.v8register.net/subpages/tech ... penoil.htm

Hi, if the filament for the tail light keeps blowing you might want to consider fitting an led replacement, one of these. http://www.amazon.co.uk/TAIL-BRAKE-LIGH ... B008JX2HK6 The conventional light filaments particularly the tail lamp filament is so fragile that the vibration through the frame can easily break the filament. LED lamps are so much stronger and have a much higher life expectancy. For safety sakes, as well as avoiding the chance of being fined, always take a look back and check you lights are working before you set off.

Hi, drop the engine oil lay the bike on it's side and soak the seized bolt in plus gas or equivalent keep it well soaked. From what l've read they can be a nightmare to get out it might take a day or so to soak it through and still be one hell of a fight. Where steel passes through aluminium be sure to keep it well greased. Don't go crazy with the hammer l think that bolt passes through the rear of the engine casing. Patients my friend.

Hi, don't compromise with riding gear for off roading, Rocks and tree stumps hurt take it from me! Full moto x gear a must, body armour, boots, helmet and goggles, you'll have rakes of offs learning but it great fun! Stay safe enjoy

Hi, this mod info might be of use to you. http://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii-bu ... k-mod.html

The shed is not the best of place to be honest but if you have no option l would suggest to put them in one of these first. http://www.packmate.co.uk/vacuum-storage-bags_62_3.html We use then all the time to stow our caravan bedding, l can report that they do keep out the dust, damp and also the spiders lol

Hi, I've had a quick look and found this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-R80-RT-19 ... 0977995048 Some useful info here also http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/engine.htm Hope this helps

@MilwaukeeYamaha: Watch @tweethutchy win the Macau GP today at 5pm on @MotorsTV , Sky channel 447, Virgin 545. Enjoy

Hi in reply to your question this is a strange one! As l see it, if you look at the size and weight of that adaptor it's quite obvious to me that its going to weigh a few grams, compare that against the weights that are used to balance your wheel clearly you can see it's going to throw your wheel out of balance. You could l suppose get your wheels re balanced after fitting these adaptors, but why run the risk of running 2 Schrader valves on 1 wheel and also treaded coupling that could also fail or work loose? I have used one of these adaptors for years but personally l would never leave it permanently fixed to the wheel. There's a link below explaining the art of balancing motorcycle wheels and show the weights involved, there a lot smaller and lighter than that adaptor. http://www.motorcyclenews.com/MCN/Produ ... ur-wheels/. ">