Chrissb6

Hi start by having a look at the bulb - bulbs not sure if your bike has one or two

Hi Mate, l would take it back to the dealer and see if they are willing to play ball, 3 months out of warranty is not extreme they might meet you with the costs. A call to Yamaha HQ customer help line might also be worth a shot. Best of luck

Hi, sorry to say it sounds like the dreaded 3 gear syndrome, a lot of big bikes suffer from this its mostly due to the excessive amount of time this gear is used. If you think about it, you can go from walking speed to silly speeds all in third gear, this gear takes an awful lot of hammer if you are not mechanically sympathetic to the gear box and engine. Your not alone http://www.fz1-forum.com/forum/gen-ii-t ... cking.html Hopefully your bike is still under warranty as it's not a cheap fix there's a lot of hrs involved plus parts. Would not recommend riding the bike in this state just in case something has broken off inside, you could end up locking up the gear box not a nice thought! Hope you are soon sorted.

Hi, any country preferences or events you want to take in? Camping, digs or hotels?

30 BHP 22,000 rpm 8 gears 135mph fast Here's the spec's http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/ ... linder.htm Awesome little bike, a fantastic piece of engineering no electronics and 5 carbs

Hi as said it sounds external, but being that it is still under warranty l would take it in, if the problem is inside and it requires a replacement part they might get a bit arsy if they see that screws have been tampered with. I would suggest you get everything done as much as you can whist the warranty is intact, You will have plenty of time to tinker with it once it's expired.

Built back in the 60's when racing was a no holes bared affair Awesome piece of kit ">

Hi these look like they will go straight on. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Custom-LED-In ... 23204f7a60

Hi drilling the bars is a big No No as already said you will weaken the bars, clamps are the way to go and with that be sure you don't restrict the movement - lock to lock.

Off to kick some tyres and buy bits at the classic bike show this weekend here in Newark Nott's. Weather forecast here is for a another soaker so my bike will remain in hibernation

Good news, glad you're sorted, and well done you for having the savvy to ask and digging in deep to bottom it. I've got plenty of time to help those who are prepared to have a go. It's all part of the learning curve and the bonus of saving yourself a small fortune to boot.

Something to break the long winter blues always a good turn out http://www.classicbikeshows.com/showind ... sX1EatFDDc

You might have an air lock in the water pump, there's normally a bleed nipple - small bolt on the pump or nearby housing have a look and see if you can find it. Without the engine running undo the nipple - bolt and see if and air comes out in front of the coolant. Fingers crossed.

Having fallen out with Garmin after they said they were no longer offering up dates for my Street pilot as they said it was out dated and l needed to upgrade. "that unit cost a small fortune new and was working fine but l could no longer use it as the computer software was outdated. I've now brought a water proof mount and power supply for my Samsung galaxy S3 phone and brought the full package from co pilot live. http://www.copilotlive.com/uk/personal/ ... wwodYzMAqw Switch off the mobile data system and use the phones GPS system it works a treat, hooked up to our intercom with background music stored in the phone I've done a lot of driving in Europe took me door to door no issues. Now signed up for European roaming with Vodafone and for £3.00 a day use my uk package in Europe that's going to take some beating.

Morning, first check the electrical connection for the thermostat it should be on top of the radiator, l would not be surprised if you pulled a wire taking the fairing off. If there's no coolant leak don't be putting any sealant into the system. Try and draw off any excess fluid in the cooling system and get the level correct, you don't want it overflowing and getting onto the tyres or yourself. Keep us posted.

Hi, Just make sure your new charger is compatible with a bike battery a car battery charger will fry it!

Just grab this off the net: Halfords Trade Card. These can get you anything between 0% and 80% discount on Car Parts in any Halfords store. The problem is that you don't know how much discount it gets you until you take your card and the item to the till and ask them to scan it through. Rather than doing this every time, I thought it would be a good idea to try and start a list of rough prices for various items that people have purchased. This should give us a fair idea of if its worth getting the item from Halfords or your local motor factor. Any other relevent information may be useful as well - for example the discount on Halfords own brand products is generally greater than that of a 3rd party. Official MoneySavingExpert.com Insert: If you're a mechanic or in the trade and can prove it then the Halfords Trade Card could mean sizeable savings. To prove you're eligible you'll need to show either your City and Guilds in Motor Mechanics certificate, or equivalent, or proof that you're employed as a technician. However, even if you've been working in the trade for some time and can't prove you're qualified, some store managers will, at their discretion, give cards to those who can prove they make a lot of purchases by showing receipts from local motor factors although they'll also prefer that this be accompanied with proof of employment where possible. I might attack this from another angle after reading this, I've got tech certs for my work. I'm always buying tools and bits

Hi, l tried to set up a trade account a while back. I was told that the condition have change and it now strictly motor traders who can apply for the account.

Hi are you sure you want a switched supply to your socket? The reason l ask is that every time you switch off your engine you sat nav will power down. l found this a right pain should you stop for a moment for fuel or the likes. I use mine for all sorts of things just make sure you fit an in line fuse halfords or any car accessory place should be able to get set up correctly

Hi first check the battery then check your lights. A flat battery will cause all sorts of problems with the charging system and output voltage.

Hi almost sure you've got a poor earth connection on your front indicators. Follow the wiring and check the connections. Pay attention to the earth wires and earth posts

or be spilt out and might be the possible cause for some poor sod having an off. Don't take oil leaks lightly! Oil, tarmac and tyres especially motor bike tyres is a recipe for a disaster keep the oil where it belongs in the engine.

Agree with the rest, you also might want to check and clean any oil that might have found it way to the back wheel or brakes

Just saw this, it seems that your bike is the weapon of choice lol http://www.visordown.com/motorcycle-new ... 24143.html

Why have you connected into the generator stator circuit? Your bike is fitted with an alternator which produces AC voltage from there it go's through a rectifier to convert it to DC. The charge voltage in the battery controls the voltage regulator which governs the charging output from the alternator. Never mess with these circuits they are very sensitive you can easily trash the charging system and end up with a very expensive repair bill. Your bike main fuse from the information l can gather is rated at 20 amps, more than enough power to try and test the grips. Go as instructed from what l am reading damage might have already been done. For your information a 3 AH battery will do exactly that, 3amp 1 hr 6 amps will do it in 30min and so on its the generator that has to do all the work the battery is just backup storage.