megawatt

Never had any problems running my 400/4 on unleaded.

If you can stroke it through all the gears, but it feels like it's in neutral, then it's probably a gear selector fault. Could be just the detent spring or a broken selector dork spring. Often accessible from back of the clutch and the sump plate, if it has one.

Go to Tongue via Lairg, fabulous road. Much better than A9.

David Silver spares could sell you a lock and keys.

Google it or search on eBay. EBC are good.

DO NOT CLEAN LIKE A PUSHBIKE CHAIN IF IT HAS O RINGS. Clean it with a soft brush using paraffin every month. Clean paraffin off with brake cleaner on a Terry towel until its bone dry. Lube with a dry ptfe lube, like Wurth, every 200 miles. Check tension every time you ride it. Lube it after a long ride, while it's hot.

Make sure you have clearance of at least 1/8" at the handlebar lever to the perch. Check adjusters are properly tightened up. Check that actuator works smoothly. If noise goes when clutch lever pulled in, problem is probably clutch internals.

Could be the clutch. Have a look at the cable at both ends, the actuator arm, then strip the clutch.

Who fitted the new pads. Did they clean the pistons before pushing them in to fit the new pads.

So you're swapping the CCT , even though you probably don't need to? Auto or manual?

What you been quoted for valve clearance check?

Item 4 is the actual tensioner. It pushes onto the blade or lifter, item 3 ,to stop the cam chain flapping about and maybe jumping the sprockets. In my experience its the tensioner that fails or is between teeth on the mechanism, allowing chain to rattle more than normal until the tensioner takes up another notch. The blade could wear all the plastic covering away and maybe have the steel part rubbing on the cam chain. The tensioner is replaceable externally and easily. The blade isn't. My experience with them is clean the tensioner and if necesary , allow pusher part to come out another notch. Best solution is to replace with a manual tensioner.

You don't necessarily need to change anything. Just remove it, clean it, flush all oil and crap out, refill with oil, clean oil hole out on engine and refit it with pusher in correct position.

Ive asked you to phone me and posted on Coastal Riders. I m sure it's a misunderstanding. If they let me join, anybody can join.

I do all my own and anybody elses that needs help. For 42 years.

Can you turn your pix 90degrees please?

Can you send a link to what you wrote and what I'D you used Saunders?

Normally when the fork is complete, you can undo the lower 8mm damper rod bolt by undoing from bottom of leg. An impact gun usually works. If the bolt won't undo because the damper is turning, you need to stop it turning with a special tool, a hex bolt or nut on the end of a tee bar or a wooden dowel hammered into the bihex on top of the damper rod.

Anything is doable with ingenuity and money.

Buy secondhand Japanese. YBR is perfect. That's a great price for a YBR.

There's no snobbery in Coastal Riders Facebook group.

Ride like a tvat, virtually deffo bike thieves. Knock em off and hurt them.

Think about what's under fairing and what it's gonna look like and where it's gonna go with no fairing. Gimme a BELL for a chat?

Search for Coastal Riders on Facebook . A lot of us between Hastings and Eastbourne.

I've built a few street fighters and still have some goodies. Look at some others and decide what you like most.