megawatt

That's because we've done Brighton and are doing WZ next. Bit late to change it now, but I'll try for you Mike.

Well be there Friday afternoon mate. You are welcome any time after that. Especially if you take pictures and bring beer.

Ive reduced by one and two teeth on front sprockets and never had a problem. At £15 , its a throwaway option.

I ran 11.6 at Brighton and my last run felt quicker, but the timings were suspect. I have yet to fit two step and air shifter . I havent dialled the cams in or lowered the front end. I reckon there's a 10.9 in it and maybe 130 rwbhp. Not bad for a 37 year old air cooled heavy lump and a nearly 60 year old rider.

I've done many more Dyno runs at 10,000rom than strip runs. It will break a badly built engine, not a good one.

Try a smaller front sprocket for about £15.

Here to help.

Max torque at 115 and 118rwbhp was88 and 82. Max torque at 120 and 122 was 87 and 86.

Id use position 1 or 2. Easier to turn preload down in steps using C spanner and extension tube, with bike on Abba or paddock stand. If you need it , use a longer tube on C spanner.

Do you want less preload then? How heavy are you?

Not really interested in torque on a dragbike, but I'll dig em out.

What a fantastic day with Richard Board on the Dynabike dyno at Moto Works, Sittingbourne. Previous highest rwbhp was 113 with 36mm EFE carbs and pod filters. I had convinced myself that previous popping and flames out of the V_H were caused by dodgy wiring and ignition. Think I sorted that, so I begged Richard to lend me his RS 36 flatslides and pod filters. Different bike. Still, er, interesting at low revs, but above 5000 it was fuelling perfectly. Best run was 118rwbhp, the best ever. Then I thought I'd try a bit more ignition advance with the Shell V power. Best run 123.5 rwbhp. There's more to come from this 1170 motor.

100% renewable energy sources? Are you certain of that?

A sprag clutch works on one direction. One way, it slips, the other way, it grips. Normally using cylindrical rollers and soft springs onto a machined surface.

Wurth. No mess, takes 5 mins if you've got a centre stand.

Mine are wired direct to battery via a fuse. They switch off via a sensor when I switch ignition off.

Put the oil back in if its not old oil. Check basket and backplate for grooves and file them smooth if they have sharp edges. Check cush springs and spacers at back of basket. Shake it to see if it sounds like a tambourine. Check release bearing.

Try and find yerself a diesel bike as well?

If you're risk averse, best you stop riding a motorbike then. There's a far greater chance of being hurt whilst riding than there is of a Lithium jump starter bursting into flames.

Been carrying one on my bike for five years. No spontaneous combustion yet. Lithium batteries give problems mainly when they are overcharged.

Fit heated grips?

Electric pillar drill and a hand held vice to make sure it was exactly 90 degrees.

I just used the supplied tapping drill.

I've replaced all the M7 rocker cover threads, in the cam caps, on my GSX race engine. Not a difficult job, but serious if it goes wrong. I'm sure you'll cope mate.

Anything better than nothing. Could save major, expensive damage.