Tango

Just want to raise the profile of the calendar on the forum as it looks pretty empty at the moment. I guess there are many that don't even know of its existence.....but it's a good way to advertise runs, events, meets etc where members can quickly see what's on or look ahead to plan events so they don't clash with something else. Anyone has anything coming up let the Mods know and it can be put into the calendar with a link to the thread for more info. The button for it is above and left of the Donate button...... Use it or lose it......

Alternate method: Soak the screw in Plusgas......carefully cut a slot across the head of the screw with a junior hacksaw.....undo the screw with a flat blade screwdriver........easy peasy.....

Just bumping this up the list a bit as we were discussing it down the Marina tonight..... Will arrange a meeting time from Hartford Marina a bit nearer the time and dependant on the weather forecast for Sunday.....

I think upping the gearing won't make a great deal of difference with the sort of riding you are doing mate. I think low to mid 50mpg is about all you can expect from that bike with a mixture of riding. But then again...for the price of a new front sprocket it may be worth a punt and see how it goes......I just don't think it'll make a big difference. Let us know what you decide and how it goes......

None of the above........bought a Honda CD175 in 1975.....took test on it Feb 1976.......far less complicated in those days......

Hey, how's it going mate?...... Taking the front sprocket up 1 tooth will alter gearing....making it a bit "taller". This will slow the acceleration but give lower revs when cruising. So I guess the question is what sort of riding do you do? If it's a lot of motorway or main road riding at steady speeds the taller gearing may help....but if not it may actually make the consumption worse. A good service can help.....fresh oil, new plugs, new air filter etc. I can't remember, but is your bike restricted? I think that this can have an effect if it is. Other than that....I think if you want significantly better MPG you'd need to downsize and maybe look for a Single cylinder........Royal Enfields are pretty good on fuel....but their performance won't take your breath away......

Is that line from a Carry On film Colin?....... Bit like the "Infamy, Infamy....they've all got it infamy".....

Well....sorry guys but it's all gone Pete Tong AGAIN!... Seems that someone upstairs is determined that we are not going to get to this gathering..... So I guess we'll just have go doubly mad at the Forum Rally...... Anyway....I hope you all have a great weekend......and expect to see the pictures (the uncensored ones anyway) posted up here next week.....

BMF show in Peterborough in a couple of weeks time?

Welcome the the Forum Antony....... You'd need a wiring diagram to be absolutely sure. But one of the wires from the indicators will go to the frame of the bike somewhere (Ground)....so the other one will be the live......

You may want to invest in a Scottoiler too.....just to save a bit on the maintenance front....

No problem Neil, was a bit of a last minute decision for me too. Got the waterbeach - hunny run in a couple of weeks. Let's hope the weather picks up a bit by then!

Got there at 6:30......b*ggered off at 7:15....only 1 other bike there at that time....... I'm guessing you went down there Red?......sorry to have missed you if you did.....

That's true mate.......the rad is a bit exposed....but I guess that's what happens when you take a fully faired sports bike and remove all the fairings to make it into a naked street fighter.....

Yep...sensor definitely shot..... I got a 2nd-hand set of R&G crash mushrooms for my S4 and fitted them. Had to drill the Radiator Cowl Fairings but it looked OK after. Gotta say I don't think that sensor on the S4 is in any worse position than most other bikes....you were just unlucky that it obviously hit something.....

It could be as simple as chain tension....too loose and the chain will be flapping around. Does your bike have a centre stand or do you have a paddock stand? Basically you want to check the amount of up/down movement of the chain at the mid point between the bottom of the front sprocket and bottom of the rear sprocket. On a lot of bikes you are looking at a movement of the chain of approx 1.5 - 2.0" around 35 - 50mm. And as Colin says you need to check for various parts of the chain......so check the mid point on one part of the chain, then rotate the back wheel a bit and check it again until you've checked the whole chain. If it needs adjusting just follow the description in the Haynes manual. Also check the chain for tight links....make sure you can flex the chain between all the links....a tight link will give you the clicking noise. If you have a tight link you may be able to free it by spraying the chain with chain cleaner and then relubing it. Hope this helps..... BTW...this is just a rough guide....before anyone picks me up on the specific free play for the T-Cat....

The oil pump is buried in the engine....so you'd have to do something quite serious to break that I think. As well to replace the sensor though....coz you never know when it may save you from a knackered engine in the future....

Anyone going up there this evening?

I think the likelyhood is that the switch is damaged.......given the external damage to it. BUT.....and it's a big BUT.......if the pump did sustain some damage in your off running the bike without decent oil circulation will knack*r it for sure. Are you a gambling man? Unfortunately, until very recently I had a copy of the TT600/S4 Triumph workshop manual which may have had a method of testing it...but alas no more......not a lot of help to you really is it Are the connections to it OK?

Looking at prices on eBay I'd say this bike is probably about right for a dealer. They are a solid reliable bike....but highly nickable (ask Donnie Brasco.... ). Guys on here will offer advice on what they would do....but you've got to make your own mind up really. You'll get opinions and all the options available and peoples experiences with each of them....but we are all different. So, if you think you'll be more comfortable running the 125 for a year to get experience....and that all important years NCD (hopefully) ready for the step up to a bigger bike...then go for it.... With regard to the CBF125....unless you trash it during the time you have it you're likely to get your money back...or at least a very small drop in the value....but don't quote me on that......

DATA Tag is basically a special code is etched or imprinted on most of the parts of the bike...the idea being that if the bike is nicked and broken the parts can be traced. 2 keys is....well just that....it has 2 keys.....one to use and one spare. HPI Clear means that the bike has not been subject to a write-off or outstanding Hire Purchase agreements. Hope this clears up these questions for you.....

If you're gonna do that replace the pins too.....they generally aren't that expensive and the pads will move better with nice new shiny ones in..... But the pads themselves may need a bit more pressure on them to bite.....so, overhauling the callipers is a good thing to do, but you may not see any great difference in the overall performance of the brakes....

It may be just the new pads......which brand did you go for? Also as has been said above, the pad guide pins can corrode or get grooves in them....so it results in the pads not moving correctly when the brakes are applied. Also the callipers should normally be floating....so if that movement is restricted the calliper may be biassed off to one side. Just a couple of ideas to throw into the mix......

I think the previous owner has sold you some junk to be honest...... I think that you will need some professional assistance to get this bike running....and I think that would cost more than the bike is worth. Unfortunately trying to diagnose a problem like this over the internet is very difficult unless you have a good knowledge of the bike you are working on. I can only really give you very general guidance.....and then you need to be able to check these things out on your bike and report back what you find. The bike not starting or starting and then cutting out can be due to a large number of things....and you would need to be able to work through those things methodically and eliminate them until you find the problem. I would suggest that you trawl the internet and see if there is a service manual for that bike and then take it from there. Sorry mate...this may seem a bit harsh...but I really think you will struggle to get this bike running....

Yep....been there mate..... Finger tight and half a turn is probably good enough it you can't get a torque wrench in there....