Joeman

Only one way to find out! I'm no expert, by any means, but its worth asking the question to solve the debate once and for all. I know there are some exclusions from the distance sellers act, but mainly seem to be bespoke items made specially or perishable items as well as others, but nowhere have I read that motorbike helmets are excluded. You 7days - get on it!!

The Distance Sellers Act is about protecting the Consumer not the Vendor. The right to cancel the order is unconditional (within 7 days), so there is no requirement for the consumer to return the goods in saleable condition. Not great news for the vendor, but thats the risk they take by selling mailorder in the UK.

One foot down, about 5k rpm, drop the clutch and spin the back end round

Hmmm I took a sticker off and the tags too Dont think it matters. I Dont think the law stipulates that it has to be returned in brand new condition.

send it back. So long as its been less than 7 days, they have to give a refund as helmets are not excluded from the distance sellers act. http://www.which.co.uk/consumer-rights/ ... egulations

30k / day maybe, but for 3k its not worth it. They make more than that from selling laps to the public.

is it really only 3k per day?? seems cheap....

Its odd you should say that because mine do. I've only done a few hundred miles on mine. Also I think the traction control on my BMW makes the power delivery smoother so I dont scrub the sides as much accelerating out of bends. Interesting to see how they cope with nice warm summer road temperatures.

Problem with the PR3's is that they look like you ride like a grandma. They just Dont seem to want to look worn.

Exactly. Where you come to a stop is the same place that all those cars with oil leaking out the bottom have stopped previously. High chance of there being a slippery surface so good idea to come to a stop with the rear brake and not the front. Reading ahead, you already know if you're going to be stopped for any length of time, so you can either get into 1st gear or neutral before you stop. If you're there for a while, take both feet off and have a stretch. No point staying leant over the tank if the lights are red..

When you get onto a bigger bike, you Dont need to change gear so quickly when pulling away. Come to a stop in 1st gear and there is no need to keep your foot anywhere near the gear lever. Its only smaller bikes where you have to rapidly change up a gear after pulling away. Also hill starting a heavier bike, the rear brake is much better than trying to hold the front brake whilst giving it gas. Personal choice at the end of the day, but why make life difficult??

It probably shows that not many are using the rear brake. When slowing right down and coming to a stop, its a good idea to let off the front brake and use the rear brake more. If you do this, you'll naturally put your left foot down first.

Bullshit, surely? What if there is gravel on your left? Diesel? A pothole? Its good to be taught to use your left, but surely they won't mark you down for not? No idea, but I think the point is that when stopped youre supposed to have the brake on. Like in the car test where you have to have the handbrake on before going into neutral... I actually hook the rear brake under the side of my boot. It let's me put both feet down whilst having the rear brake on... Doubt that would pass a test though!!

Probably need to adjust your riding style. You should be riding with the balls of your toes on the pegs, so then you slide your foot forward a little to change gear, then move it back.

You can fit as many alarms and trackers as you have space for. So could get a cheap alarm and a cheap tracker. Will flatten your battery over time, so make sure you ride regularly to keep it charged up.

If you fit an alarm and a tracker, when the alarm goes off, the thieves will rip the bike apart to silence the alarm, and probably remove the tracker at the same time... Keep it stealth, have the tacker silently track the bikes movements

Im experimenting with one of these on my bike: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GPS-GSM-GPRS- ... 336db41c6b So far works well. I bought a 2nd one to fit to one of my cars too (not fitted it yet)

And read the last two paragraphs of this: http://www.iam-bristol.org.uk/index.php ... 4&Itemid=1 In icy conditions, in a rear wheel drive car, you do not want to be in 2nd gear at 30mph!

Seems they are all at it!! RoSPA website says 30 in 3rd too... http://www.rospa.com/roadsafety/advicea ... -gear.aspx These kinds of rules scare me as people take them as gospal and ignore the vehicles capabilities and road conditions...

Then they are idiots and are out of touch with modern vehicles IMO. Lower gears makes the vehicle much more responsive to tiny throttle movements meaning its very easy to creep over the limit. My S1000RR, like most sports bikes will easily break the national speed limit in 1st gear. Do they expect me to ride round in 1st gear all the time?? Leave a litre bike like an S1000RR in third and see how hard it is to maintain 30mph... Just the slightest movement of the throttle will cause the bike to accelerate...

I get into the highest gear possible (4/5 or 6) to reduce the chance of my speed creeping up.. My cars and bikes will all easily creep up to 40mph if I leave them in 3rd.

Yeah but, if you're only on one wheel, you have to half the speedo reading as only half the bike is speeding on the public highway... If you can get airborne you're not even on the highway so can go as fast as you like...... Allegedly...

Or heated grips

Many come with a ball bearing that you hammer into the alenkey bolt head making it impossible to undo with an alenkey.

Practice on the flat. You Dont need a hill to practice rear brake control. Once youve got it, you'll need a tiny bit more rear brake on a hill. No need to stand on the brake pedal! So with brake on, and holding the revs constant, gently let out the clutch until you hear the engine speed dropping or feel the bike pulling against the brake, then let the brake off... Simples ;)