RideWithStyles

If nothing here attached too or anchored too (family direct/indirect, home,business etc) then why not? Timing doesn’t seem bad? Son is still young so to upsticks (school and friends) now is better than later on. If the wife can get that job over there with family and members in the vicinity makes moving easier, your not bothered about UK life from the sounds of it…

HBD

Zip ties and tape, tubes, spoones (tyre changing bars), puncture repair kit both tube and none tube (bacon strips type), small pump, few extra bolts and random nicknaks, thread locked and basic toolkit, extra padding or armour .

Saw that coming from a mile off but obviously you was a bit distracted by your phone call. Clearly he was in the wrong lane (even the camera showed the half worn paint arrows), had no intention to change lane into the correct one prior, nor any indication during or after,nor give fooks about you being there and was prepared to put you off to do it. His very late reply after he couldn’t stand to ignore you any further was merely a fook off your bugging me. Doesnt matter if you could have “chatted” with the ar*ehole to let him know the error he made, you wouldnt get any where with them you might aswell head butted a wall…. had a muppet in a fiesta today. two lanes both go 3/4 around the round about to the start of the motorway. muppet on inside lane while his lane is is pretty much empty (two cars ahead). Outside lane was full including vans, muppet decided he wanted to at the last minute with no indication and force his way into the full lane and prepared to crash into two cars, have an altercation to do it rather just stick to the same lane he travelled for 1/4mile before hand.

Maybe not. As with other Chinese stuff and experienced one of the better ones that had been designing and in the market for a good while, Id rather beast the crap out of an under powered RE him or fight the boredom of a similar Honda or take the risk of an true Italian bike. as unpopular that opinion will be.

Dont know why but we all probably knew you’d do it . Jokes aside As far as I’m concerned on a EV, if you buy it for the correct reasons and use case FOR YOU , while coping with its negatives with eyes wide open then all good.

Astigmatism is where the eye isn’t perfectly round (like a rugby ball) and so the vision as it passes the Len’s doesn’t hit the back of the eye in focus is its generally sprayed and distorted slightly before the sweet spot on the eye sensors. one way is to train to not look at the light but away/around at other points of focus, like a car further up ahead or a section of road lightly luminary’s. Got to agree - most new cars lights are too much, set to a different type of homologation/rating that differs to normal lights of older technology that doesnt seem to relate in keeping with current peoples tolerance. One option as Husoi you said. ive tried yellow tints for other sports and so forth and can be useful, some get on with them while some dont… also legally and technically on how much tint is in the lens (day time use only or not road legal) if is if mr plod or insurance want to drag your arse through that if they get wind…depending on how bothered you are about it. yellow tints with very white though technically quite blue hue head light will make lights look more green, some colours can look similar to others when you mask them with tints, that depends on how good or badly your eyes perceive colours, some get on with some find it distracting. thing is Rennie tinted visors or glasses at night aint a good idea, there is a limit of how much light your allowed to block out. Then your potential to block out too much and ride half blind…it’s bad enough with chavs (other types included) covering the drivers, passengers and windscreen of their cars… if the visor has loads of micro scratches and pits in, that spreads and disfacts the light and makes it worse. Glasses with anti reflection coatings can help some what.

Halogen /filament bulbs are designed for deflecting head lamps,as they spread the light too much. LEDs are not the same, don’t work the same and don’t require deflection as they are very directional so why deflect it and make it worse? If you changed the whole light unit that is designed to use led and its setup correctly that’s fine (and the wiring to cope), just don’t half bodge it. in cars LEDs work great as they don’t pitch, yaw or tip so the very longitudinal beam is great but on a bike at night with a fixed unit it’s crap in rural areas. Tip in to a right corner all you get is ground a few feet away but nothing further or up lit on the corner to be of use you wish to negotiate but yet on the outside all the hedges and sky you don’t care to see…or only the impending deer or badger that jumps out. That’s my experience of stock leds head lamps on bikes.

Not sure if your making a snipe or just being honest? Just incase it’s the first then, Out of how many other possible?

If you have to regen it so much either two things primary things wrong, driver habit - driving it incorrectly as a modern diesel with eco bullshittery demands and not knowing what modern diesel are for a certain persons lifestyle or its sooo messed up from the first fail it’s a losing battle . that’s being general.

If I say basically, Just a fashion hore… lol.

ok, The easiest mpg gain are as follow: higher tyre pressures. carry as little luggage or shite as possible, only carry as much fuel as ull need for you journey. road legal exhaust with baffle. Ride more often in a tuck rather than bolt up right especially at higher speeds. clean and freshly lubed chain, check chains for kinks etc. Riding within the sweet spot of the engine power/torque, this tends to be 8thou or just above not always just above idle at say 3-4k on an inline four with high rpm red line, in most cases. Other engines and caps have different values. Rider training- carry speed gained prior into the corners where possible instead of shutting off / scubbing it off and applying throttle afterwards. very high quality oils with friction modifiers and cleaner packages changed more often than the manual says (go by colour of the oil of how dirty). Less cylinder count, use a twin over a 4cyl. smaller capacity engine etc. there are other things but thats off the top of my head.

Not Always, sometimes it’s poor choice of possible bike for use case.

If you have to, chain the bike properly through either the rear wheel or better frame to something very solid even if it’s not in a bay but to a lamp post etc on the grounds, aslong as its not impeding pedestrians (photo proof is good). still buy a ticket. If its london add another chain ( front wheel to the exhaust header or what ever possible, disc lock and light weight cover…

Yea the ball joint is fine as it’s meant to rotate a little bit- highlighted by your first interaction on the video. Simples! it’s fitting( screw/nut behind) it needs tightening up- highlightened by your last interaction. the nut to the peg end needs setting to its link and not the start of the thread on the shaft as it is. Also depending on your biometric of your leg/feet, you might want to lower the lever abit by lengthening the rod a few revolutions.

A

Not enough In London

Thats maybe the difference? seen a few times with the same offence…you get booked. only seen once and copper in good mood, you get a warning.

A2 licence bike….sub 600, twin cylinder, 46hp, torque throughout the rev range, 100+mph easy, 75mpg minimum, cheap service and parts, lighter. Beans given a lot of the time . That’s what I got from i the benelli leoncino 500…

They handle different differently, even fewer and far between so more cost too.

Would you be open to a small capacity twin? That would open up a lot more options with little impact of negatives

Yeah don’t bother with the front only the rear (or for license tests cover it but don’t use it on hills.

Really? Why? You go out of your way with conceal the non legal exhaust

Scorpion as a car exhaust yes but as for bikes no, there upage came from accuiring an other company off memory.

Exhaust designs are and what is heard or more like dampened varies. if you want quieter ones, stainless steel, long body, two or three end cap if they have separate internal chambers with routing like blue flame did yonks ago so if you wanted quieter on the two cap type you left the small cap on as it routed the internal gasses around to the main chamber. quieter and still ran very well. louder are carbon fibres, shorter,wider bodies, larger diameter exit caps, More holes if their internal doesnt chamber as it’s just for fashion. quill is a very old name now and a small British builder, not heard about them for soo long, so still in business im not sure. Fuel is another brand of the same kind. these two are certainly on time of fashion of your bike. pipewerx are at the cheaper end of possible and are still in business last i saw and not shite, worth a look. black widow and scorpion are newer players, mostly deal in the more modern and very highly made bikes of recent so doubtful if they did any R&D over looks about right… grps are middle loud, slightly gruff, if a tad flabby imo, If you want something abit nicer if budget allows , stick to properly designed ones like yoshi or akraprovic, plus you can get them reskinned and packed easily, they have a good resale value.