RideWithStyles

lets put it this way your gonna have to bite the "for the life of the bike BS" its not a bulb so its not cheap. If its LED you have to but the head light unit sometimes separate and sometimes both....

Oh

Depends on the bike and Flexibility of the person. .. a full upright (sat up 90 degrees) adv bike will have an easier time over the arched over (45 degrees or less) sportsbike rider that has clip ons.... on the note note of different helmet sizes... yes one manufacturers large could be another medium or xl. some brands will have fewer shell sizes for their helmets and fill them out with padding, a good brand with many shells per size will go like this- Xxs and xs will be for one shell size. sm and med will be for one shell size. Large and xlarge will be for one shell size. Xxl and xxxl will be for one shell size. An alternative brand may go- xxs, xs sm will be one size shell. med, large and xl will be for one shell size. Xxl and xxxl will be for one shell size. so if your a xxs or a med size your getting the rough end of the deal and will be like a bobble head or look like tiny kid that borrowed dads helmet. Which will be noiser, padding will most certainly give more and will be looser much quicker...

Hi, well if you're not "a talker" as long as your a typer it should be easier.

. Get well soon to everyone in the Bonio house hold! Merry Christmas and a happy new year to all.

Yep it shouldnt lurch forward so Sounds like its still engaged, Ill guess its a cable operated so its not pulling the clutch enough, tighten the cable slightly at the lever cable adjuster first and see if that improves it. if the starter primes but wont turn over as the motor and starter is silent a couple of things could stop it. 1 kill switches of main or the side stand are still engaged. 2 bike still thinks its in gear and clutch lever not pulled in ( check the clutch switch below the lever which will be a simple 2prong plug) can be down to some brands like Suzuki and some triumphs are common.

Same here and no whisky or beer to drown the sorrows.

nasty toxic when they go up. Be actually interesting what the failure and damage rate (exploding, fires, toxic etc) to people and property rather than the deaths as they'll always be wuite low. Yep bender is correct, Aluminium composites can do that under certain circumstances. i know of a multi million pound company in Europe that even thou they didnt make batteries thay still used the odd chemical similar to make a different byproduct in smaller quantities as a small range in the chemical industry for mass production, they knew what they where doing over the years had prepared everything but the slightest leak in a small sealed container and oxygen which did a Hindenburg to the factory...it was no more.

Yea they are.

Not kidding cheeky...parked on double yellows- lol.

Yep. for bikes these can make sense compared to batteries ( stupid amount of weight, charging problems of quantity and quality) but as motorcycles are in the minority a self fill would make alot more sense plus you have the liability of the tanks and who swaps and looks after these??? self filled woukd be better, and easy to alot a pump for it, shame theres not any cars out too as that would help. people fill lpg without much issue... problem is these tanks are already part alloy / carbon fibre wrapped wrapped as they are- think of dive tanks or paintball gun tanks that run in excess off 6000psi compressed air that was 20+years ago when i was last involved, so strong and lightweight compared to batteries, behave similarly to current IcE... why not have lpg bikes and a intermediate until the other technologies get better for full ownership?? not sure how batteries long term will cope with being outside in winter, vibrations etc as they are really explosive, as videos of lithium batteries off phones, peddle and other modes of transport explode... im not anti electric and both technologies have drawbacks, each do have a place in the biking world but they aint suitable for everyone/bike. but for my preference id prefer LPG or hydrogen at the mo.

Yeah especially the daughter.... thanks you too.

Hi.

Thanks guys, will do!

Normally Primary down but you can just check the upper afterwards incase it catches on the swingarm. but as the diagram says its a total upper and lower movement of 55-60mm, place a ruler underneath the swing arm, middle length down the S A. Gently pull and raise as far as it will naturally go and take the measurements from there. example 1: of 20mm raise while lower of 40mm equals 60mm will be on the limit. example 2: of 30mm raise while 50mm Lower equals 80mm will to too slack.. is that clearer?

Run

Just leave it on. its easy for the battery as it wont be starting a bike (from fresh charge-some discharged state) then running the bike while trying to skim the excess current to recharge the battery from losses it had to do which also depends on speeds/revs/ and the condition of the wired also charging system as a whole. A good charger wil exercise it and keep it healthy where as most trickles and solar's dont.

Good evening.

Nice narrative and good observations, thanks. just in case other people that are short reading this that another bike to consider is a moto guzzi v7.

The type of Smile with a full bum crack showing!!

Anyway people cant be that scared of us bikers, when i park in the tesco motorbike bays nearest to me which is terrible for security and safety leading to why quite a few people including employees use the bicycle bays. customers often walk past really close or brush past (the older ones, weirdly women are definitely the worse for it in my experience around here) even when while trying to parking, loading the tb or setting off.

did u just pull it out? or did you turn the wrong way? Poor choice of words? anyway it is not important.... yes it looks like you ripped out the thread liner. So the metals are cast iron/alloy (sump block), then a steel collor left exposed, what would have been a aluminium/alloy threaded collar. This is why a torque value should always be followed- now im know implying you did it but ive been the victim of dealerships f@@@in noobing the basics too it really question things. Anyway The hexicoil really is ment as a layer of good contact for a weakish or worn thread repair, not to solo job. So it will bring the thread back to what it was as in the same inner and outer diameter as before. But now uve taken the liner out just coiling (with the same as the sump plug it wont particularly fit. so depends on a few things it its a bodge or just to get going would be just to retap what is there and find a matching bolt for the width,length and pitch of the new bigger sized sump plug. torque should of been mid teens at most with soft metal liner in noddy value but now your in the stronger metal so try mids first but if still leaking go 20-25nods. For gapers metal weld be better than sealant but really its a get you home or just to a garage job than long term. there is more pressure built up and variations in the engine than you think otherwise theyd just bonnet fit the thing or put minimal thread on.when an engine is on tick over take the oil filler cap off, bike will run and sound different, try putting uour hand over the top of it (with rubber gloves) to seal it wont be easy, then try to seal it when you blip the revs, that is weak air pressure alone, what do you think nominal vacuum and 3ltrs of oil plus pressure baring down on the plug will be like?

Thats E10....

It

Not sure but wasnt this the bike they used on drudge dred film but with panels changed??? nice to throw that one out when people ask about it and say its got some fame outside motorcycles, as like Mi2 the speed and daytona T595 with the fastest tyre change in history....If you want wanted to throw something out.