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Back brake stuck partly on, and brake pedal doesn't return


Inithra
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The bike is a Suzuki Marauder GZ125, Y reg, the back brake is a drum.


So halfway to work last night, I went to use the back brake at a junction, and noticed that it was quite a bit stiffer to press down on the pedal, and the pedal didn't spring back when I removed my foot.


So this morning I did a couple checks. When you press the brake, it does engage the brake fully, as you cannot then move the bike, and the light still comes on. Then when I remove my foot, the brake does release, but the light doesn't go up until you manually move the pedal back up.

It feels like the brakes are constantly engaged slightly, as there is a little bit of resistance when rolling the bike in neutral, and I have been noticing for a couple of days that it was even slower than normal.


When I got home, it didn't smell as if the brake pads have been cooked, so hopefully this isn't causing TOO much damage?


I gave the bike a clean and then applied ACF50 a couple weeks ago, haven't cleaned it since then as I've been working 60+ hours a week, and had to go visit my dad in hospital, so just haven't found the time. Could all the crud have caused this? Will giving it a good clean (and maybe some WD40?) possibly fix the problem? Or am I going to have to get a new brake cable, possibly new brake pedal, and probably new pads?


I'm flat broke until Friday, and need the bike every day until then, how much more damage am I going to do riding it as it is? How much danger am I in?


Below is a link to a picture of the brake lining wear limit indicator, but I honestly don't know if it is showing zero or lots left!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzv_CdmzaZqPZ3doMjNLNHhBcjQ/edit?usp=sharing

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:stupid:

most likely that the brake pedal pivot needs a clean and lubricate as Tiggie says...... 8-)

if the brake shoes are low the cam that operates them can go over the apex or get near the apex and not return correctly........so a quick check of the brake material on the shoes could be worthwhile too...... :wink:

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Thanks for the replies. On my way in to work tonight I managed to ride through a shin deep puddle that literally blasted both my feet off the pegs. Pulled up at work, and pedal is operating normally!

As an added bonus, my new cheap as chips Cube trousers (£35 from M&P on eBay) kept my feet and legs almost 100% dry!

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Yeah, still going to get some new shoes fitted, and get it checked in those area's I can't get to. Any post I put here is just so I can get an idea of what's wrong, rather than letting a mechanic take me to the cleanera. The bike is a tool for me, not a toy I keep because I have too much money and nothing to do on sunny sundays. I can't throw money at it and I can't put it in the garage over wiinter.

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In which case having a good mechanic you can trust is a better plan - even if it means spending cash. Ask the group who they use in your area and make a decision based around that. It'll be a few pounds well invested!!

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I don't know anybody around here, biker or not. I moved here because my brother offered me a place to live when I was homeless. Since then he killed himself, and I'm working 6.5 days a week to pay rent and his funeral costs.

There's no mechanic in my village, and the choices are one ten miles away, in the town I work in, or one nine miles in the other direction, who are only interested if you order first party suzuki parts through them.


Obviously it would be easier if I knew how to twangle the flanges in it myself, or at least had a paddock stand so I could get the back wheel off the ground and have a go at fuckng the job up, but I don't.

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Sorry to hear about your brother!


I think that what people are trying to say is that it's better

to spend a little when you need to rather than leaving it till

something fails completely and ends up costing more.


Running any bike through winter will take it's toll!

The salt/grit that they put on the roads is nasty!

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Yeah I realise that, and they are probably right. I'm not exactly in a good place lately and have a hard time seeing anything but the negative. Doesn't help that the Suzuki place charged me £160 just over a month ago for a service (oil, oil filter, air filter, tappets)that did nothing as far as I can tell. Even the rear bulb they put it I had to replace again three weeks later! They certainly didn't say anything about the wear on the back shoes. Or the frayed clutch cable that snapped on me soon after. (That one I managed to replace myself)

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There's definitely still an issue, could feel the resistance as I wheeled it backwards in neutral to turn it round and leave work this morning. So will call the garage around 9 this morning and see if they are actually open Friday, and hope they can order some rear shoes by then, take it in before starting work.


Haven't fitted rear brake shoes since my first bike, almost two years ago now, and then my brother was doing most of the work. Does the rear wheel have to be taken off entirely? I'm pretty sure it does, right? I'm going to see if they can check the bearings in the rear wheel. Has been feeling a bit wobbly lately, but don't know if the bearings can cause that, or if it is just the very high winds. Have also had the back slide twice while braking in the last week, but again the roads have been wet and greasy, and the second time it was just after passing a petrol station, so may have been a patch of diesel. First time was on the country road in the fog, and I thought I had strayed onto the grassy edge before a tight corner.

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Sorry to hear about all your troubles.


To change the brakes you do need to take the wheel off - Simple to do.


The drum brake pads are easily swapped over (IF THEY NEED CHANGING) - If there is material showing above the rivets, then pads are OK, if level with (or very close) to the rivets, then they are do for a change' if ritet tops have been ground down then they should have been changed befor this point!


Clean everthing inside the drum and around the brakes, apply a small wipe of grease to the shaft and pivots (but NOT the inside of the drum or pad surfaces).


On refitting, check for the correct adjustment of the brake and don't forget to check the brake light adjustment. While you are at it, check for drive chain tension and adjust the position of the wheel accordingly.


Easy check for 'bearing play' is with the wheel correctly on the bike and the bike on its stand, try and move the wheel left to right (supporting the swinging arm, both from the top of the wheel and the back of the wheel. Any movement indicates loose or worn bearings.


You can check the swinging arm bearings in a similar fashion.


Clocks available on fleabay at reasonable prices or, check out your nearest breakers yard/shop. Can you not try a 'temporary fix' by winding electrical tape around the body of the instruments?


Mechanic cost for 'wheel off' brake replacement and service should be circa £80 + parts. 'Wheel on' could cost up to circa £200 plus parts. DIY = Time (about 2 hours tops) plus parts.


Good luck.


:cheers:

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Cheers GoG.

Booked it in with the garage in my work town. Rang them, and the guy said much the same about it probably being the cam, without trying to tell me it would need a whole new brake unit or some such.

Besides, even if I did decide to do it myself, couldn't order the new pads until I got paid on Friday, wouldn't get them until well after Christmas, and then would have to wait until I had a day off. Also, I don't have a paddock stand, and without one I really don't see it being a one man job!

This way, the garage orders the new shoes, then I take it in Friday morning, and pick it up an hour or two later.

Day off today (kinda - finished work at 7am this morning), so instead of sleeping I'm going to give the bike a proper clean. Can't take it in dirty!


PS: the bit about the clocks looks like it should have gone somewhere else?

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