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Joe85
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Need some advice from the good people of TMBF.


Are my discs knackered and pads worn???


Ducati mentioned to me the other day that my rear disc was blue and i must be resting my foot on the rear. Turns out i do!! A lot! I do a lot of filtering to work and i have developed a habit of not touching the front break and relying on the rear for a smooth ride (when filtering) however, this has developed into me resting my foot on the rear brake pedal.


I checked the disc when i got off tonight because it was groaning quite loudly when breaking heavy. When checking i noticed it was HOT!! Almost too hot to touch.



See pics below.



Im aware of my bad habit and will try to keep my foot off the pedal but do i need to replace the reardisc/pads? Only 3000 miles old.



http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161118/3f9b85cd3b86733bc6e89e9e33f6effc.jpg


http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161118/28c82b327ff9141832877c8246c827db.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161118/63cd016239df87561b6d2ae5aa4a3d36.jpg

Edited by Joe85
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Bloody ell, my fronts lasted 5k! And that was hard use.

From pics i see worn pads but the disc looks fine :thumb:

Get your feet on the pegs and keep them there

Cheers drz.


The inside pad (last picture) looks completely worn down to me.


Any good online outlets for pads?

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Also see if you can adjust the pedal position so that it is still comfortable and easy to use but in a slightly lower position so that if your foot is covering pedal its not actually depressing it but bear in mind you may have to adjust rear brake switch position if its a manual type and not pressure activated

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:stupid:

Adjusted mine to be more comfortable and easier to use, lower Han the book level. Forgot about the switch. Rode for a couple of days with the brake light on till I noticed. :oops:

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Cheers guys.



Got some pads today and will be fitting tomorrow! On a side note. Ring Ducati and ask for pads = £60 "oh its cuz they are brembo pads and are better"


Find a Bike workshop up the road who has then in stock= £24.

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Annnnnd...ive f**king had it with Ducati.


Another allen bolt about to round off on the calliper. Im "this" close to smashing this bike to bits with a hammer.


Piece of shit. More i work in this bike the more convinced i am that the build quality is just shocking.


Take into consideration that this is a 4 month old bike, kept in a garage overnight, they are clearly over torquing the bolts. I dont even think the worn break pads are my fault.


I know i said i rest my foot on the break lever but i was testing it out earlier and the pressure applied to it by my foot (only when filtering i might add) doesn't even activate the brake light microswitch or slow they tyre down (tested it on the stand).


Tempted to leave the garage door open tonight with the key next to it.



B******s.

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whinge away we will just ignore you :lol:


Looking at the pics you should be able to get a pair of mole grips on the caliper bolts

 

:D


Tried.


Slipping off. Think it is well seized in there. Was tempted to file it flat at top and bottom to give more grip.

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grips can't be tight enough on the bolt :lol:


if you did go the filing route then make a spanner fit :wink:

 

It has a ribbed exterior so the grips are chewing it up. It really is a cheap bolt, like the rest of em.


Just gonna weld and replace it. What the odds on the head snapping off!?

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depending on the material used for the bolt it might not even weld


if it does snap it would probably go at the bolt head leaving enough to get hold of when the caliper is off


thats if the caliper will come off after the bolt has snapped


it looks like the bolt screws in to the bracket at the back and not in to the caliper

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There are two types of mole grips ....

Shit cheap copies which dont grip feck all and twist

Or Proper Mole grips


As said always allen bits on any bolt of reasonable torque

And give the the recesses a good clean out before using the bit and then drive it home with a few taps .

If you can access the heads easy enough ... small set of decent stilsons

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There are two types of mole grips ....

Shit cheap copies which dont grip feck all and twist

Or Proper Mole grips


As said always allen bits on any bolt of reasonable torque

And give the the recesses a good clean out before using the bit and then drive it home with a few taps .

If you can access the heads easy enough ... small set of decent stilsons

 


Huzzah! It seems enough alcohol and crying can solve anything!!!


And some pump pliers.


http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161120/078e7eb60a13fae7f972aa065448bfdd.jpg


http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161120/5b60c2daeec1a4723dac9c50cd371c7c.jpg


The inner pad is really bad.

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Well, personal crisis over and brake pads replaced.


Not fully convinced i am causing this, will go for a ride using front break only and see if rear disc is getting hot anyway.



Thanks for allowing me to launch my toys out of the forum pram :D

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You're welcome.

It may be the caliper or piston is sticking and not letting the one pad move away from the disc when releasing the brake, hence the one pad wearing.

If it's a sliding caliper a good greasing of the pins otherwise clean up the Pistons and make sure they are free.

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Hi, l had a similar problem one time with the Bimota, the bike went in for it first free service on riding it home l notice it was not running free on the overrun, then came the smell of burning from the rear end. On inspection l found that they had adjusted the rear brake peddle return stop screw to tight causing the brake to drag " cost them a new disc it was blued and a new set of pads". Before you set off give the wheel a spin to make sure it free then apply the rear brake and see if there's enough free travel before the brake bite's, remember as the brake heats up and generates heat this is also transmitted into the oil which will cause a small amount of expansion enough to make the pads drag.

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