Semperfi Posted June 1, 2018 Posted June 1, 2018 HiI have an issue with my 600 bandit. It's currently been sat in my garage for about 6 months or so since I last used it. I tried to get it running last weekend and it won't acknowledge me turning the key. Like the battery is flat but it's not that because the battery is fine and charged. Every now and again the needles on the clocks move forward and backwards as they should but nothing comes of it. I'm assuming it's just a loose connection somewhere leading from the battery. Don't suppose you guys could possibly shed any light on this for me? Many thanks Quote
mikestrivens Posted June 1, 2018 Posted June 1, 2018 Please read the details in the pit stop section:https://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=33618And then let us know what you have tried.In the first instance replace the fuel with fresh. Also clean all fuses and other electrical connections. Quote
Six30 Posted June 1, 2018 Posted June 1, 2018 Gather it was starting fine when you stopped using it ? battery is fooked. Quote
fastbob Posted June 1, 2018 Posted June 1, 2018 So the starter solenoid isn't even clicking then ? First thing to do is sandpaper the battery terminals and connectors then retighten. If that doesn't do anything then the battery is f****d or fooked to use the correct terminology Quote
fastbob Posted June 1, 2018 Posted June 1, 2018 HiI have an issue with my 600 bandit. It's currently been sat in my garage for about 6 months or so since I last used it. I tried to get it running last weekend and it won't acknowledge me turning the key. Like the battery is flat but it's not that because the battery is fine and charged. Every now and again the needles on the clocks move forward and backwards as they should but nothing comes of it. I'm assuming it's just a loose connection somewhere leading from the battery. Don't suppose you wguys could possibly shed any light on this for me? Many thanksNot without getting my greasy hands on it no , you've pretty much diagnosed it yourself so all you have to do is get stuck in with a multimeter, £12 from Wilko. Quote
Tango Posted June 1, 2018 Posted June 1, 2018 The battery could be showing a good voltage when it's off load.....but could collapse when it's under load......so, I agree with the other guys.....New battery time I think..... Quote
Semperfi Posted June 1, 2018 Author Posted June 1, 2018 Thanks for the replies guys. The battery is brand new. It has done one journey which was about 6 miles before I put the bike into my garage. So surely it cannot be the battery which is at fault?!? Quote
fastbob Posted June 1, 2018 Posted June 1, 2018 Thanks for the replies guys. The battery is brand new. It has done one journey which was about 6 miles before I put the bike into my garage. So surely it cannot be the battery which is at fault?!? Well that's the first thing to check with your multimeter tomorrow. Did you put it on a maintenance charger ? Quote
Semperfi Posted June 1, 2018 Author Posted June 1, 2018 Yes the battery has been on a maintenance charger. I've tested the battery on a multimeter and it reads good. Quote
Semperfi Posted June 1, 2018 Author Posted June 1, 2018 Gather it was starting fine when you stopped using it ? battery is fooked. Yes it worked completely fine. I even brought the bike out of the garage and just let it tick over on the drive a couple of times. Then one day, nothing! Quote
bonio Posted June 1, 2018 Posted June 1, 2018 I had a fooked battery on the VanVan. It had been on a trickle charger all winter and showed a merry 12.6V on the multimeter. But it couldn't even give a faint glow to the headlamp and the starter was stone dead: not a click, not a whirr, let alone an attempt to turn the engine. Measuring the voltage across the battery's terminals when it was actually on the bike gave a miserable 3.something volts. Fooked. Quote
fastbob Posted June 2, 2018 Posted June 2, 2018 Assuming the battery is good then , the first connector to check would be the ignition switch one which may possibly be bright green . A handy little tool for cleaning contacts can be made by sticking some wet and dry paper to the inside faces of a pair of broad bladed tweezers . Clamp the flat pins in the male half of a block connector with the tweezers and move up and down to clean . Look for signs of melting because this particular connector is usually positioned very close to the hot engine . The one on my GSXR melted ages ago and had to be replaced . Running the engine while stationery does not allow the heat to dissipate so you never know . Quote
mikestrivens Posted June 2, 2018 Posted June 2, 2018 switch cleaner works well as well, especially for hard to get at terminals. Quote
Stocky Posted June 2, 2018 Posted June 2, 2018 kill, Switch. Which switch in particular should he kill? Quote
Semperfi Posted June 2, 2018 Author Posted June 2, 2018 So I've checked all fuses under the seat that I can find. They all seem fine. The headlight works, but nothing else. No oil light or mileage displayed either. So bloody strange! Don't know if I'm helping at all sorry. Quote
TimR Posted June 2, 2018 Posted June 2, 2018 So I've checked all fuses under the seat that I can find. They all seem fine. The headlight works, but nothing else. No oil light or mileage displayed either. So bloody strange! Don't know if I'm helping at all sorry. Do you have access to a car and a set of jump leads ? Connect up without running the car and try This would rule out a battery .Never presume anything new is ok ...As you said it was new before being stored . The charger may not be working properly or overcharged and destroyed the cells .You start at basics and simplest .Otherwise your chasing issues that may not exist but because A doesn't work but you have not fully investigated A and dismissed A being the problem your at K completely stumped Quote
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