Help with ignition wiring

[Moebius]

Hello, total newbie here - just got my first second-hand bike recently (a 2005 Honda CG125). I noticed the bike struggling to start a bit a couple of days ago but after a few attempts it started and I thought nothing more of it.

This morning it was struggling again and despite numerous attempts it wouldn't start; I noticed some clicking coming from the back, which seemed to suggest an issue with wiring rather than battery / voltage and sure enough getting into the engine I found a completely disconnected wire (spark cable?) on the ignition starter unit - see pic below.

So, I don't really have any mechanical or wiring knowledge so could someone run me through exactly what I need to do and what tools / bits I'll need to do it?

Obviously I know I need to reconnect the thing but it doesn't appear to be as simple as simply re-inserting the loose wire (...which I did try, lol ). Do I need to use a stanley knife to cut the red "cover" (cap?) bit or just pull it off (easy now!) and then twist the wires together before re-wrapping / covering with a new cap? Something else...?

Guidance much appreciated!

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[Bender]

Have a Google, plenty of YouTube vids for noobs regarding connectors and wiring, the fact it's come out suggests it's too tight or vibrating too much. See if cable can be routed better and get yourself a set of connectors, screwifix and toolstation should suffice.

[fastbob]

I don't like the look of those bullet connectors , somebody's been meddling . If it won't reach just solder and heat shrink a little extension on it and fit a new connector from Halfords .

[WD-40]

There was probably a burned connector so someone replaced it with those spade connectors. You could do the same again. That's the easiest repair to do but they tend to break and corrode so you could have the same problem in the future.

You could solder and heat shrink but if you've never soldered before you might stuggle with that. It's easy when you know how but not so easy if you've never done it before. You would need an iron, solder, heat shrink and some flux makes it easier.

You could get a OEM style connector from somewhere like that https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/. You crimp the new terminals on and push them into the block connector.

[Grumpy Old Git]

Are they spade or bullet connectors?

Whatever they are, I would replace the lot!

The black wire (near your thumb in the pic has damaged insulation so that (and the broken one) will need sorting.

As said earlier - Looks like someone did a poor job of making those connectors and you will probably need to exted the wires (or look if you can re-route them) so that they are not tight.

If you lived close - I could have popped over and sorted it for you. Simple enough job to make a decent connection (either soldered bullet connectors, or crimped with a proper tool). You could even get a plug/socket with screw in connectors if soldering / crimping is too m uch of a challenge.

Whatever you decide - Make a decent job of it or you will need to re-do in the future!

[Moebius]

Thanks all for the knowledge and tips.

 

You could solder and heat shrink but if you've never soldered before you might stuggle with that. It's easy when you know how but not so easy if you've never done it before. You would need an iron, solder, heat shrink and some flux makes it easier.

You could get a OEM style connector from somewhere like that https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/. You crimp the new terminals on and push them into the block connector.

Yeah you're right about that! I've never soldered before or heat shrunk anything; not against giving it a go after getting the right tools but would definitely be bricking it at the thought of making things worse, hehe.

Thanks for the OEM suggestion and link - checking the site out now.

 

Are they spade or bullet connectors?

Whatever they are, I would replace the lot!

The black wire (near your thumb in the pic has damaged insulation so that (and the broken one) will need sorting.

No idea. But yeah - sounds like I do based on what you and everyone else is saying - thanks for the heads-up on the black wire too!

 

If you lived close - I could have popped over and sorted it for you. Simple enough job to make a decent connection (either soldered bullet connectors, or crimped with a proper tool). You could even get a plug/socket with screw in connectors if soldering / crimping is too m uch of a challenge.

Whatever you decide - Make a decent job of it or you will need to re-do in the future!

Thanks mate! Will look into the plug/socket route.

[fastbob]

These are good .

[Moebius]

Thank you!

[Mississippi Bullfrog]

Soldering isn't hard and the equipment is cheap. You don't need a fancy iron just avoid a flimsy low wattage one. For that thickness of wiring anything above 25W would do. I use a 40W for wire and that's fine.

The key thing is that the parts to be soldered must be clean and free from grease and corrosion. You want bright shiny metal to solder to. Use flux, it cleans the joint. Those who say they can't solder usually don't use flux or they haven't cleaned the joint properly. Most solder works fine, just don't go for the kind that has flux inside it - it's crap.

Clean the parts. Get the iron up to full temperature, so be patient and wait a few minutes. It's getting there when a dab of solder melts instantly on the tip.

Apply flux to both parts, then 'tin' them. That simply means adding a spot of solder to both wires separately so that the solder flows into the wire.

Slide a piece of heatshrink tube over one of the wires to be joined pushing it as far back as possible so it doesn't get heat from the soldering.

Then join them together, apply the iron and solder and let the solder flow into the joint. It helps to use something to hold the wires in place so you don't pull them apart by accident. Don't hold the iron to the joint too long as the wire will conduct the heat and damage the insulation. That's why you need a reasonably meaty iron for vehicle wiring.

Allow the joint to cool then slide the heatshrink back to cover the joint and apply some heat to it. A hair dryer works better for this.

There's plenty of youtube tutorials. It's a skill worth learning.

[dynax]

In addition to [mention]Mississippi Bullfrog[/mention] use 60/40 lead solder and not lead free, using lead free as a novice can be very hard work using lead solder is much easier to use, toolstation sell 60/40 solder at a reasonable price

[fastbob]

A quick waft of a cigarette lighter does it for me which is fortunate because I do not possess a hair dryer . I do , however , possess hair , and in its original colour too .

[Mississippi Bullfrog]

In addition to @Mississippi Bullfrog use 60/40 lead solder and not lead free, using lead free as a novice can be very hard work using lead solder is much easier to use, toolstation sell 60/40 solder at a reasonable price

 

Ah - still using lead solder then. This explains a great deal.