Wemoto alternative?

[Shepherd]

I can't seem to add to my previous 'NT700 brake discs' post, so I'll have to ask on this new thread/stream/activity, or whatever it's called today ...

I'm being quoted £77 each for brake discs ( I need two), which is more than I can run to this side of payday.

Does anyone know of an alternative to Wemoto that they can recommend?  I've tried cmnsl, Fowlers and Sportsbike shop who were all dearer. 

Edited November 19, 2020 by Shepherd
Stupid spelling

[husoi]

follow the link for sportbikeshop

https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/#/27907,3203,1186

the best is a www.duckduck.com search for your bike

[Tiggie]

Have you tried eBay?

A lot of parts shops run their online business on there

[husoi]

1 minute ago, Tiggie said:

Have you tried eBay?

A lot of parts shops run their online business on there

True but the link in the forum helps @Stu with forum costs

[Shepherd]

Thanks husoi, I did try them - not the keenest of prices

Ebay scares the life out of me, always worried I'll buy the wrong stuff.

 

Looks like I will have to bite the bullet

[Tiggie]

@husoi He had already mentioned he'd tried them which is why I didn't mention it 

[TimR]

Go to fowlers website and using the part finder 

Select your model etc 

And this will give you a reference to what other vehicles use that part.

For reference : ( may not be your year  

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/view/45251MERD01

 

Or cmsnl.com again handy reference

Sometimes other models may be clearing out .

 

Put the part number in Ebay search or even Google

 

 

Edited November 19, 2020 by TimR

[JRH]

@Shepherd sorry to say but that isn’t too bad a price.

 

Edited November 19, 2020 by JRH

[WD-40]

2 minutes ago, JRH said:

@Shepherd sorry to say but that isn’t too bad a price.

 

Yeah front break discs are expensive. Sometimes you can get lucky and find a good used set.

[Shepherd]

Thanks for the replies, I bit the bullet once I was sure I wasn't being ripped off.

I don't mind paying what I need to, as long as I don't see the same thing at half the price afterwards. 

[Shepherd]

I was advised on my previous post, that it made sense to change the brake fluid too, but I've also been told it's a nightmare to bleed these due to the linked system. Anyone have any experience doing this on a Deauville? 

Your answers are appreciated,  many thanks.

[husoi]

I did the fluid change on my ST1300 and the system is similar (maybe a bit more complicated on the ST.

The nightmare is when you empty the system completely and then try to refill. you won't be able to remove the air without a vacuum pump.

The process I use is to remove enough brake fluid (BF) from the reservoir without emptying it.

Then I fill the reservoir with methylated alcohol (you can get it from toolstation) and pump the fluid until the alcohol starts running clean from the calipers.

After this you repeat the process with new BF until it runs clean from the calipers.

This way you will never have air in the system

The alcohol cleans the system but doesn't damage the pipework and it will only be there for no more than 30 min.

[Shepherd]

Great post husoi, thank you 

I don't mind trying things, as long as I have simple instructions, and the above sounds simple enough. I'll have someone alongside me to keep an eye on the levels.

I'll soon post again if I cock it up!

[WD-40]

The only thing that should go into a brake system is the specified brake fluid. Download the workshop manual and follow the procedure in that.

[Ian Frog]

10 hours ago, husoi said:

I did the fluid change on my ST1300 and the system is similar (maybe a bit more complicated on the ST.

The nightmare is when you empty the system completely and then try to refill. you won't be able to remove the air without a vacuum pump.

The process I use is to remove enough brake fluid (BF) from the reservoir without emptying it.

Then I fill the reservoir with methylated alcohol (you can get it from toolstation) and pump the fluid until the alcohol starts running clean from the calipers.

After this you repeat the process with new BF until it runs clean from the calipers.

This way you will never have air in the system

The alcohol cleans the system but doesn't damage the pipework and it will only be there for no more than 30 min.

Hi @husoi

This sounds a great idea in principle to keep air from entering the system.

Did you get it from someone with experience in dealing with hydraulic systems?

I can see the logic but believe it is questionable to introduce a fluid not specified for the braking system.

I am open minded as I said before the principle sounds sensible.

Cheers

Ian

[husoi]

17 hours ago, Ian Frog said:

Hi @husoi

This sounds a great idea in principle to keep air from entering the system.

Did you get it from someone with experience in dealing with hydraulic systems?

I can see the logic but believe it is questionable to introduce a fluid not specified for the braking system.

I am open minded as I said before the principle sounds sensible.

Cheers

Ian

Hi Ian,

I use methylated alcohol (MA) because it is inert to metal and plastic in the hoses and have cleaning properties.

Usually, when running it in the brake system I will action the brakes a few times to move the pistons and help cleaning.

The use is not intended to have any hydraulic capacity. If was to be used as such the water content will become a problem so it must be ensured that is not subject to high pressure as it would occur in a closed system. But this is not a problem is used only to flush the system.

The only caution needed is to make sure clear brake fluid is running through the purge valve replacing the MA, because the alcohol is purple it is easy to spot. and that the operation is done without interruption. Having said that if the MA is left for a couple hours "soaking" the system this poses no issues.

I've done it on all my bikes, mostly because all of them are Honda with CBS, I have used it also in my cars and never had any problems.

I service my calipers every 2 or 3 years depending on mileage and never found any sign that MA would be an issue.

I know people usually just push new fluid on used and make a direct replacement but my opinion is that brake fluid have no cleaning capacity and the direct replacement doesn't remove the surface coating the used fluid will deposit throughout the years.

[Ian Frog]

Your logic seems sound to me.

I find it a little suprising that noone has badged it differently and sold it as a flushing fluid at greater expense lol.

Cheers

Ian

 

[WD-40]

Do any manufactures of bikes, cars, brake systems or brake fluid recommend flushing with alcohol? Any workshop manuals that show it being done? If you take your bike, car, truck etc to a proper mechanic do they flush with alcohol or anything other than brake fluid? Are they all doing it wrong?

[TimR]

58 minutes ago, WD-40 said:

Do any manufactures of bikes, cars, brake systems or brake fluid recommend flushing with alcohol? Any workshop manuals that show it being done? If you take your bike, car, truck etc to a proper mechanic do they flush with alcohol or anything other than brake fluid? Are they all doing it wrong?

Used to be used on all metal piped systems but think the advent of rubber based hoses and synthetic based seals etc it became less and less wether this is due to it reacting with these am unsure

 You could consider non aerosol based brake and clutch cleaner  (used on pipes to clean internals etc but not as a full system flush)

Or just flush through with brake and clutch fluid

Edited November 21, 2020 by TimR