My Honda CB100N project - “Rusty”

[GojuRyu5]

29 minutes ago, RideWithStyles said:

.

they should have filled out paperwork when they acquired or stripped parts and sent them off but assuming is the mother of cock ups, further more with paper trail of the supposed next owner and you get the paperwork to fill it in but rarely online sellers do it so you better off just making sure its done.

otherwise a reputable garage will flag up problems at mot time.

if the police pull you over for something and bother to check (especially if uve been naughty) they will try to trace and copper gets annoyed at have to spend more time small talking while following up loose ends.... as they will think " is it a stolen engine, why doesnt the docs follow up....

That’s helpful. I’m an Auditor by profession so paperwork will have to be nailed shut, so it’s useful to know the key considerations. 
 

Much appreciated both

[Ian Frog]

Hi @GojuRyu5

My comment about bringing frame to engine is based mainly on experience of reassembling 4 cylinder bikes and I tended to get engine into frame then attach swingarm, forks wheels etc.

The pipe lagging works well and use plenty of tape then trim off afterwards taking care with your craft knife following which you can take your time with going round tightening everything up safe from sudden moving engine lol.

Cheers

Ian

[GojuRyu5]

Work starting on the tank today. Paint stripped and sanded back the surface to remove some rust (especially underneath - picture below shows part progress on sanding the base). The seams were OK, no leaks and used Tankcure Rust Remover to clean the inside surface (which wasn’t too bad).  Noticed a couple of small dents so took the opportunity to try to fill those.

 

Three coats of red oxide to prep the tank for the final top coat of silver, but the surface looks pretty good overall.

 

 

Edited September 23, 2023 by GojuRyu5

[GojuRyu5]

Now with a grey undercoat to make sure the silver top coat isn’t affected by the hi-viz red oxide primer .  I aim to add the top coat tomorrow, so fingers crossed this plan works.

 

Edited September 27, 2023 by GojuRyu5

[GojuRyu5]

Tank resprayed in final colour (doesn’t look much different from the undercoat ) and will add the clear coat and decals at the weekend.  Also found time to rebuild the front forks with the new fork seals and fresh 10W oil.  Another job done!  

 

 

Fork legs came up nicely from original condition.

 

Edited September 28, 2023 by GojuRyu5

[Tinkicker]

Looking good. Very good.

[geofferz]

This is an excellent thread. 

[GojuRyu5]

Top coat and two layers of lacquer have been added, and the decals are now in place. Almost messed up on one of the main flashes by spraying some water on the wrong side as part of the fitting process and trying to peel the backing sheet off (schoolboy error nearly cost me £70…). Managed to dry the paper again well enough with a hairdryer and saved the piece, phew.

 

Pleased with the outcome and managed to get a decent position with the overall placement.  Just needs a couple of lacquer coats over the top to seal them in, and the tank is done.

 

 

[geofferz]

Paint is always the best bit

[GojuRyu5]

Not perfect, but tank finished with the cover flap, grommets and petcock re-fitted.

I used tank rust remover inside the tank which did a grand job, but having taken the liquid out and washed it out, I found it impossible to dry it properly and the internal surface rust has developed again. Should I do it again when I come to rebuild the bike?

 

Edited October 16, 2023 by GojuRyu5

[GojuRyu5]

Also had to re-rivet the metal brackets to the front brake disc guard, after I removed the rusty parts for repainting. Not the best paint job as the brackets were pretty rough, but I couldn’t use a pop rivet due to the clearance needed between the guard and the disc. So had to use cap ended aluminium rivets and manually compress them. Still need to be filed to a final finish, but pleased with the new skill. 
 

 

[geofferz]

What can't you dry? Tried a heat gun or hair dryer? I presume so but... 

[GojuRyu5]

32 minutes ago, geofferz said:

What can't you dry? Tried a heat gun or hair dryer? I presume so but... 

 

Thanks @geofferz. I used the rust remover in the tank and followed instructions to wash it out afterwards, presumably to remove any chemical residue. But after flushing out the water through the fuel tap hole and trying a hairdryer for a while to evaporate the rest, I still couldn’t get all the dampness out.

 

i guess I’m going to have to try again. It’s only patchy surface rust, but I was struggling to come up with a better plan - now all the paint is done, I need to find a way to do it without damaging the finish. Anyone done this before and any tips?

 

Thanks for asking.

[geofferz]

I see people flush with brake cleaner than air line it. I had assumed that left zero residue. 

[GojuRyu5]

3 hours ago, geofferz said:

I see people flush with brake cleaner than air line it. I had assumed that left zero residue. 

Hmmm, brake cleaner may be a better option to rinse the tank, but I will have to think of an alternative to an air line as I don’t yet have a compressor.  Definitely a good idea though - I do know someone with a compressor who has offered it to me before Thanks @geofferz. Helpful as ever. 

[geofferz]

On 17/10/2023 at 12:15, GojuRyu5 said:

Hmmm, brake cleaner may be a better option to rinse the tank, but I will have to think of an alternative to an air line as I don’t yet have a compressor.  Definitely a good idea though - I do know someone with a compressor who has offered it to me before Thanks @geofferz. Helpful as ever. 

Bicycle pump? 

 

Happy to help - I'm a qualified armchair mechanic because I watch so many youtube rebuilds

[GojuRyu5]

HAHA - the best way to learn as it’s obviously all true. I get all my cheerleading tips and learn creative ways to join wood from YouTube. Just wish I had some pom-poms and 2x4 handy…

[GojuRyu5]

It’s been a while since I posted - enforced absence due to my wife having an operation, so hardly any time to get into the garage. But she has now recovered and I’m beginning to turn my attention back to the project bike.  The turning point was always going to be getting the wheels done as this gives the opportunity to start on the rolling chassis.  Well, after getting one rim re-chromed last year, and a replacement for the second arriving from David Silvers, I was able to clean the hubs and take them for re-spoking last week. Pricey, but the guy makes his own spokes himself, so I know it’s a proper job (and, hey, the budget seems to have been blown anyway…).  The business next door to the spoke guy does bike repairs and so he found the tyres for me, so I got it all done at the same time, and I have just picked the finished articles.  Very pleased with the results.

 

Before…

 

 

Edited March 21 by GojuRyu5

[GojuRyu5]

After… (I did the hubs myself in a bit of a rush coz’ the spoke guy said he could do them the next day, so I still have some elbow grease to apply to some Autosol, but they’re a lot better than they were at the start!).

 

Edited March 21 by GojuRyu5

[GojuRyu5]

Not sure it’s it is OK to post the name of the spoke guy, and I can remove if it’s an issue, but I used Mike Mcevoy of Salisbury Wheelbuilders (based in Ringwood).  The tyres were supplied and fitted by Mark of Powerlinks, also in Ringwood. Both were extremely helpful - but they should be for the price.

 

- Supplying custom made spokes and re-lacing the wheels was £360 (more than I thought and I stupidly forgot to ask for a quote due to the rush), but for the money he’s done a grand job and better than I would have for half the price.

 

- Supplying and fitting the tyres (Continental) with inner tubes and rim tape was £143.

 

I always knew this would be one of the most pricey bits and I don’t currently have the skills to re-lace wheels myself, but it is a means to an end and I can now start on the re-build.  Watch this space.

[GojuRyu5]

OK - so the rebuild has tentatively, but formally begun by attaching the sprocket and tab washers (the old manual I bought helpfully gave torque values!). I then cleaned and polished the dust seal and packed it with grease.

 

Feels like I have turned a corner, but I still have a massive journey ahead.

Edited March 24 by GojuRyu5

[GojuRyu5]

Of course, this then got me thinking - what the hell do I do next?  What do you lot do - where would you start?

• Rebuild the front headstock, suspension and wheel?
• Rear swing arm, centre stand, suspension and rear wheel?

Thoughts?

[Tinkicker]

I always fit headstock, yokes and bars, move onto swingarm and shocks.  Then wiring harness, airbox and battery tray.

Edited March 23 by Tinkicker

[GojuRyu5]

7 minutes ago, Tinkicker said:

I always fit headstock, yokes and bars, move onto swingarm and shocks.  Then wiring harness, airbox and battery tray.

Thanks for that. That seems like a logical approach so I’ll follow that same process. Front forks, headstock, etc should give some substance to the front end followed by the rear swing arm doing the same. Thanks for the advice bud

[GojuRyu5]

So, some good progress today - got the whole day in the garage. Learned a lot about the front end by my first rebuild of a bike’s headstock and front forks and pushed on to add the front wheel.

 

I have added the centre stand to give it stability on the bench but still need to do more to add the swing-arm , rear shocks, rear wheel, before I can get it on the floor.  I did manage to sort out the box of bits so I can organise the parts into groups to make it all easier to find.  Hopefully, this will mean that I don’t miss anything and have to back out to move forwards.

 

Then remembered that I needed to re-install the bushes in the rear swing arm, which was a lot easier than getting the buggers out when they were rusted solid.

 

Edited March 24 by GojuRyu5