Stu

Including the cost of those bottles which are purely to make life easy it will cost me £6 per change and the same as you probably 10 mins to change it

Bought some gear oil for the final drive I also bought some squeeze bottles which are ideal for holding fluids like gear oil and brake fluid and can also be used to suck up fluid which is good for emptying brake reservoirs for fluid changes These are 180ml bottles and I bought these ones specifically for the final drive oil At each change it requires 180ml so I now have a handy stash of gear oil ready for changes with the correct amount. The cost of all this? Less than what bmw would charge just for one oil change

The airflow alone through the front in the cold weather is more than enough to stop a motor heating properly The fan didn't help matters thats for sure

Probably My dad used to do it on his Land Rover

Thats typical of Honda! they just seem to do everything and do it right people don't say they are bland for nothing For me I think it would be the trumpet

@jwal90 you have the BMW budget just not a brand spanker! and neither do I Mine is a 2016 model and was just a tad under 5 years old when I picked it up I went to a BM dealer and got an approved used one and the price difference between that and private was well there was no price difference but the 2 year warranty made it a no brainer It sound's to me as if you're not really enjoying the FJR as if you was you would be getting it out no matter what! I must say while the FJR was a good bike and I could ride it well I never really got on with the bike

Hi @jwal90 and welcome to the forum I had an FJR for 8 years until June last year and while you are right its a bit of a barge I got used to it and could make it moved rather swiftly through the twisties Funny enough my mate had an MT09 and no matter what he did he couldn't shake me off and vice versa when I was leading I think the different bike has got the heart racing and made it more fun One thing I will say that made a huge difference to my FJR was raising the front tyre pressure up from 36 to 40 psi it made it less of a pig to ride especially at lower speeds As for getting the same thrill its really hard to say as I sold the FJR when I bought my R1200RT with the intention of buying another smaller lighter bike for having fun on to run along side the RT for the longer trips with the missus. I have had more fun on the RT than I should be having! so much so I haven't bought a second bike. The RT is just so well balanced and rides so well I don't feel I want a second bike at the moment. The RT is no where near as quick as the FJR but I also wanted to slow down a bit too which the RT hasn't helped with as I still get to those silly speeds just not as quick What I am trying to say is that you just don't know how you are going to feel on a bike until you start to put some miles on them and the only real way is to try and find test rides of all bikes

Many moons ago people used to block the front of radiators to restrict the air flow to help cars warm up and stay warm

It will solely be the winter months taking its toll if its an injected bike then it will stay on the cold map for longer and sometimes may never get off the cold map

calm your tits down and wait till it warms up

Pulled some parts off and removed the drive shaft

Of you do it yourself make sure you buy some jis screwdrivers to save you destroying the screws

Nice and clean using wd40 no chain lube left

This is true and as I say I'm not convinced Partly because I have never used them and because I'm a believer in stripping things down and making sure everything is spotless As I say I don't see how it can work without getting inside properly

I'm not sold on it unfortunately

Michelin pilot road 4's or above I have used both thouse brands before and I was not keen for various reasons

For chain grease I used to use WD40

The bit I don't understand is how can a spray clean a carb when its not actually entering the float and not going through the fuel circuit Spaying a "cleaner" in the carb just follows the path of the air intake which goes straight through in to the engine At most it will possibly clean the butterflies

Honestly it depends on how long it would take to get in there remove the carbs and refit and the hourly rate of a garage I should think no more than around £100 - £150 Do not be fobbed off by these in tank cleaners and spray in cleaners they are no way as good as a strip and clean

I would suspect two pipes! one in and one out to complete the circuit

The coolant pipes don't always run in to the carbs they sometimes just run to the carb and heating some copper parts to warm the carb up in cold weather these usually are bolted on and easily removed so check that first It will save draining any coolant if thats the case That pipes is an overflow by the looks of it so you have a sticking float I reckon

I have used this method in the past with no issues

Now back to the buell! I was offered one of these for 2.5k when I was looking to buy the TL many moons ago! I really wanted it but had my heart set on the TL and I do regret not buying it They are suppose to handle superbly

All done for you All your all posts from the old account will now show under this account