Grumpy Old Git

Anyone thinking of going over just for 1 day? Could organise a run out - NMan1 r u up for this?

Anyone else out in the Matlock area on Sunday? I've never seen so many fuzz: checking, stopping, and generally littering the place! Rider on a 'Fizzer' got pulled over just after overtaking me on the way into Matlock Bath (70ish mph) - Thanks mate (whoever you are), you probably saved me a ticket. Hundreds (no exaggeration) at Matlock Bath - Could not find a space in the 'fishpond' or even on the main street! So, continued through to Matlock (had a meal at the 'Ship'), then on to Bakewell and back home down the 515 / 511 / 14 (did not see any more Police - Must all have been around Matlock and the 'Cat'). Paced along with 2 Honda riders and an Aprilla from just south of Bakewell up to the A50. All-in-all a great day out - Roll on Summer! GOG

Great day! Hope to do it again sometime soon - With an extended Coastal Run on the way home. Keep smiling.

The only way I can see you snapping a spark plug in that position is if the thread is crossed - you can easily break the top (white) section of a plug by stressing it with an incorrectly positioned spanner but that cannot apply to the 'nut' section. So, assuming cross-threaded, you will not be able to get enough purchase out of a screw extractor without 'mangling' the threaded portion and probably damaging the threaded hole. Take the head off - use WD40 (or Plus gas) and leave for a while then heat up the head and 'persude' the remains out with and extractor or grips (if you can access the inner portion sufficiently). Once out, inspect the thread - It may clean up OK (if you are lucky) or may need to be drilled out and a heli-coil fitted (If you have never done this before, you would probably be better off getting a shop to do this (most engineering works can do this kind of thing) - it should not cost too much (had one done on an old Yam a few years ago for £20)). Alternative is to get a second-hand head from a breakers (you may need to swap out valves, etc.). Good luck. GOG

Will not be leaving Brampton until approx 11:30 - Should be at Hunny by 12:33 (ish) dependent on traffic. If I don't meet up with you all - have a nce time and have a drink on me (Roy will show you where the water can be found!). All the best, GOG

Can't do Sunday Mornings but - I may well catch up with you in the PM What time you thinking of heading back? GOG

Remove the choke lever and dismantle. Clean out dirt/oil/contaminents. Check friction disc for any sign of scoring - If OK, apply light sanding with medium emery cloth to remove 'shine'. re-assemble and check.

Bu@@er, Can't attend as I am in jesey on hols that day. hope you all have a good one. GOG

Slip of the text finger there - LOL

Either the main fuse (most likely), the regulator gone open circuit (possible) or the return lead to the battery (from the frame earth point) is broken/disconnected (improbable but can happen). If battery is showing charged up, then it cannot be a 'short' if the bike will bump start and run (on the alternator). Are you sure you have checked all the fuses?

Going to the Boat Show - Sorry. Hope you enjoy the ride.

Google 'bridge rectifier circuit' which (after a short hunt) will enable you to see how the current from the alternator is rectified & fed to the regulator. The Regulator simply switches the output into the battery and should limit this. Did you try and measure AC voltage at the bulb feed when engine is running - It should be less than 0.5v (rectifier leakge current). The rectifier forward resistance should be approx 600 ohms and reverse around 2M ohms. Again - If you suspect the rectifier - Google can provide a supplier (regulator only seems to be available from manufacturer - maybe you could 'adapt' a similar unit off another bike?). Hope this helps.

10 years? What history has the bike - if it has a lot of miles on it, it may be that the clutch plates are wearing out. Changing the plates is a simple job - make sure you have the right tools (and gaskets) before you start. Once swapped out, you will need to adjust the 'bite' of the clutch (either at the clutch end of the cable or at the lever (or even both)). While you are in that area - It would be prudent to check the primary drive chain tensioner (make sure it is free of accumulated crap). All the best.

Under the seat near the battery (follow the Battery lead and you will find it).

I'm not saying anything.....

And.... Huntingdonshire does not even exist (not since the 'middle ages') although we do still have a "Huntingdonshire district Council". Must be great to have a job administrating something that does not exist!!

Can't do it! Heading back home from Fareham that weekend (after 2+ weeks away). Hope you all have a good time. GOG

PAW!!!!

Neil, you would fit in just one leg! Good on you Roy

just don't adjust anything inside, and don't take out or move any of the adjustment screws. The carb can be stripped down quite easily, it you remove the throttle stop and mixture screws - just count how many turns to undo and use same number on re-assembly (WRITE THE NUMBERS DOWN). Any fine adjustment can easily be done once re-fitted and engine running (after warm-up). Set throttle stop for correct tick-over and adjust mixture screw for highest revs. adjust both till correct. Try 'snapping' open throttle, should not 'hesitate' if so, mixture still not quite correct (or your timing is out!). Othe parts of the carb just screw out and re-fit firmly (no adjustment) except the throttle slide / throttle needle - the needle can usually be fitted into the top of the slide in three positions - note which one its in and re-fit to same point. Do not use abrasives anywhere within the carb. Blow out channels using air Any emulsified fuel (brown sticky stuff) can usually be persueded to go away by washing in clean petrol (I've found model aircraft fuel especially good at this). Have a go - As long as you are careful, you will be OK. All the best

Don't go down to a 1-tooth sproket. That will not work at all! Seriously though, keep the old one on and adjust for chain tension. And yes, you can remove the head, barrel and Piston without altering the timing - When you lift the head off, paint (using a coloured nail varnish is good) any chain / cog tooth meeting points so you can align these on re-assembly. Lift barrell sligtly and insert a rag all around gap, then when you pull the barrell off the piston, nothing will be damaged as it 'flops over'. For re-assembly, carefully position the barrell on the end of the piston and lower as far as the 1st ring, ease the ring in by squeezing the ring and sliding the piston up the barrell - same for all other rings. Don't forget to replace all gaskets and apply correct torque to all studs / bolts. Good luck.

Ignition Fuse OK?