fastbob

Interesting idea, I couldn't find any Jianshe clocks knock off or otherwise.

I suspected you lived in a village.

The catch is for people who's fingers get tired easily when they buy a very large amount of fuel . As far as I am aware all petrol pumps have them but I've never used one . The idea is to stick it in the car , squeeze the lever and engage the catch and then stand with your hands in your pockets until it cuts out automatically. After that I honestly have no idea what you do but hopefully someone will tell us . I presume you flick the catch off or maybe you squeeze the lever, I'm not sure now that I've thought about it . All have the capability, but every one I've seen in the UK has been disabled so it won't lock on. Which leads me to believe this is a faulty pump not user error. Fair enough.

The catch is for people who's fingers get tired easily when they buy a very large amount of fuel . As far as I am aware all petrol pumps have them but I've never used one . The idea is to stick it in the car , squeeze the lever and engage the catch and then stand with your hands in your pockets until it cuts out automatically. After that I honestly have no idea what you do but hopefully someone will tell us . I presume you flick the catch off or maybe you squeeze the lever, I'm not sure now that I've thought about it .

Good morning, your sensitive observations never cease to inspire and delight .

Another imbecile who thinks it clever to rattle the garage staff by filling up while sitting on the bike . If he had left the nozzle in the tank instead of lifting it out to get a few extra squirts it would have cut out automatically. Then he would have had to squeeze the lever again and that would have released the catch that locks the lever in place for large fill ups . No surprise that someone with such a limited grasp of the English language would struggle to understand a petrol pump. All credit to the prompt response of the lady with the fire extinguishers. Moron .

Yikes. I was under the impression that the YBR was a reliable machine. Sorry to go off topic, but seeing as you mention it, is that simply due to newbies not maintaining the machines properly, or is it a fundamental flaw? Sorry, don't panic . It's just an impression I had formed based on a few posts on here a year or so ago about seized pistons combined with the fact that this happened to the YBR of a colleague of mine . The fact is that YBRs are made under licence for Yamaha by the Jianshe company which also makes a remarkably similar bike under its own label . So the puzzle is , do you pay extra for a Yamaha badge or could you get a YBR for less money with a Jianshe badge ? Anyway, change the oil and filter regularly and I'm sure you will be fine .

Hello and welcome. You say that you bought it from a dealer and every time you take it back they say there's nothing wrong with it . Well they would wouldn't they ? Trading Standards comes to mind here. As soon as you start trying to fix it yourself you've lost any consumer rights that you might have had . If something that you purchase doesn't work , take it back for an exchange or a refund.

I ride a push bike but these c**ts just annoy me . The idea of a front light on a bike , in an urban environment at least, is to be seen.It's not to blind everyone in your path to the point where nobody can tell where you are. Utter tossers . These are the same idiots who get into their Lycra shorts twice a day to cycle a few miles to work and back . Oh yeah, most decent bike lights, including mine, have a dimmer function that saves power but these inconsiderate ar*eholes obviously choose not to use it .

Do you mean that your foot gets wet ? You've probably ruptured the waterproof membrane because there's a lot more movement with your left boot than there is with the right . Or maybe they are just shit boots . Put a carrier bag inside, mind you it'll cost you 5p these days but it could be worse . It could be both boots and that would cost 10p .

Yes it could be the switch , it could be anything . What you have to do is read the manual , study the wiring diagram, take the bike apart in order to gain access to the wiring loom , find out what's wrong and either fix it or replace it . A multimeter would be helpful but you can rig a simple circuit tester from a light bulb , some wires and a couple of crocodile clips. We'd all like to solve your problem but at the end of the day you have a massive advantage because you have the bike in front of you . Just keep at it , work logically and post some pictures. Motorcycle mechanics is very much a hands on process and unfortunately all we have to go on are words . Good luck.

I think you're right judging by the way it was tearing into the pigeon.

All the other pigeons that normally infest the square were sitting in a row on a high building looking very worried and depressed . Their turn will come .

No not a new bike . Today I was treated to the remarkable spectacle of a falcon calmly devouring a pigeon right in the middle of a busy shopping area ( Shelton Square Coventry ) It didn't seem bothered by people , including myself, walking up and filming it .

I see what you mean, loads of clocks for £20 but they all say not for injection model. I am pretty sure that if you bought some the speedo would work ok because its almost certainly cable driven . I don't know about the tacho though. Any lights can adapted by changing the wires around I guess . I am rather surprised that there are no second hand ones on eBay given the YBRs tendency to seize or blow up .

Why not buy some new rings and measure the end gap first . You never know, you might be able to get away with a light hone instead of a full rebore and oversize pistons . You can get a honing tool from Machine Mart and do it yourself. I recently did this on my replacement ER5 engine . Definitely worth watching a few YouTube videos first though.

It's worth a look . All I know is that the difference between clean grooves and ones with crap ( mineralization ) in them is like night and day . For years I could never figure out why I had such long lever travel and such poor braking even when I had bled the air out and thoroughly cleaned everything visible from the outside. Things got so bad that I was having to position the adjuster between settings and even then I was almost trapping my fingers with the lever.Then I started to completely dismantle my calipers and I was shocked by the amount of shit that had built up in the seal grooves . Of course you have to be very careful not to do damage when you remove it which is why I make up various scraping tools from bamboo kebab skewers . Now the brakes on both my bikes are amazing with rock hard lever movement that only requires the gentle use of two fingers instead of grab and hope .

Ok , I get what you mean by square seals in an angled groove but is the groove absolutely clean ? Did you fit these new seals and see for yourself or did this garage do it ? If we work on the assumption that there is no air in the system then debris behind the seals is the only other circumstance that I know of that would produce similar symptoms.

Not trying to teach you to suck eggs but I would have thoroughly cleaned the outside of the engine before I opened it up .

And my vote gives you four yes's , it's AIR .

I don't know but experience tells me its probably about one and a half turns out plus or minus a quarter turn . Screw it in gently and carefully count the turns . If it's something silly like four to six turns then you will know you're on the right track . If it's anything between one to three turns then start at one turn and bring it out a quarter turn at a time until you get the best performance and write notes as you go . If there's no improvement then at least you will be able to go back to where you started and look at other reasons for poor running. Not wishing to confuse matters, I personally don't get why people refer to Pilot Air Screws as Mixture Screws . A Pilot Air Screw only really controls slow running, after that It's factors such as float height, jet size and needle position that govern performance. If none of this tweaking works then I would turn my attention to the float height or more importantly , the fuel level . By the way, someone hasn't stuck a pod filter on this bike by any chance ?

When I bought my replacement engine as a non runner it still had the oil in it so I had to drain it cold . Despite leaving it to drain for a day , when I came to strip it there was seemingly oil lurking everywhere. Which got me thinking. Have a look at this chart of oil capacities for the ER5. In theory there is still 0.6 of a litre of old oil still in the engine when you do a routine oil change without changing the filter and 0.4 of a litre when the filter is changed .

Well that's as good an excuse as any https://webuyanybike.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAxZPgBRCmARIsAOrTHSbKQi7ZAdRDDu9g9fl49klay6EOpQSGMA9FIZot9OPVQPdr-udnhEEaAi1iEALw_wcB Anything over what they off is a bonus lol Ha, just tried that link , apparently my bike is too old to even exist. ( 93 GSXR 1100 WP ) plus they want a bit too much information for my liking.

We'll I hope you have better luck than I had . I put mine up for sale on numerous sites and magazines but the response was bugger all . I can only assume that I was asking too much so I'll try again after Christmas .