fastbob

These look promising http://i.imgur.com/ENrIzz0.png

Ok, thanks for everyone's suggestions. I'll try a thorough clean up first although I do regularly give them a clean. I'll consider a seal replacement if that doesn't do the trick and I'll keep an eye on eBay for some Nissin calipers. What bikes use the appropriate Nissin calipers ? It's six pots on my current GSXR but four pots would probably be just as good .

Sorry, no . That's exactly what the reservoir is there to do. Thanks anyway.

Yep , Tokico calipers on both bikes. I've just read a lot of very similar posts on other Suzuki sites . Seals gripping the pistons and pulling the pistons too far back is looking like the best theory by far at the moment BUT not one practical solution to be found so far. Another suggested cause is warped disks that are effectively knocking the pistons too far back in. So I've got to check for run out when I get the chance. I guess a caliper seal kit is on the shopping list. Thanks for the responses so far.

Exactly the same thing happened to a colleague of mine on a YBR 125 . Hate to have to say it but although it says Yamaha on the tank its actually made in China.

This one has puzzled me for years . Why is it that as my front pads wear,the distance that I have to move the lever increases until it gets uncomfortably near to the grip? I have experienced this on my GSXR 1100 L ( 4 piston ) and my GSXR 1100 WP ( 6 piston ) In both cases I have had braided brake lines and everything has been in good working order. In order to cure the problem I am having to fit new pads when there is loads of life left in the old ones. Surely one advantage of hydraulic braking systems is that any wear is automatically compensated for as the pistons move further out ? To be clear, I'm not talking about spongy brakes caused by air in the system. I just don't get it . Is this a characteristic of multi piston calipers ? What's the science here ?

Thanks for the reassurance, I think I'll leave well alone unless it gets much worse. Its more annoying than anything. It looks like a robust design unlike the later WR WS and WT models that appear to have a simplified damper that is given to sudden failure . I haven't checked alternator output yet but its on the to do list.

Just read this again, I've only had the alternator off. The rest is housed under a casting on top of the crankcase under the carbs so its all accessible but just takes a long time to do.

Thanks for the reply, I agree. I guess I was just seeking a little reassurance. I will probably remove and inspect it at some point. I bet those cush drive rubbers are degraded by now. By the way this picture is from the 750 pdf manual because for the life of me I cant find a GSXR 1100 WP 1993 manual online anywhere.http://i.imgur.com/85PRDpD.png

Hi I have a GSXR 1100 WP with around 40,000 miles on the clock . These bikes have never been known for their quiet engines with tinkles and rattles being quite commonplace. The other day however, when the engine was warmed up and at idle speed, I noticed an irregular chattering sound that I hadn't heard before. Then I remembered that I had turned the lights off . When I switched them back on the noise instantly stopped. Right then so it must be coming from the generator driven gear and placing it under load takes up the play. I've had the generator off and its smooth and silent when spun by hand. So its the combined starter clutch , alternator drive that's going to be making the noise. My question is has anyone encountered a similar situation on this bike and what action if any did you take? Please be aware that the starter clutch/alternator drive design seems to be unique to the WP model. The reason I ask is that I don't want to open the engine up , which is quite a lengthy job, if there is no need.

Torx heads are so much cooler than allen bolts. harder to round off too Would it be possible to replace every screw and bolt on a bike with Torx head bolt?

Come on , own up , who among us has poured the new oil in without first replacing the sump plug? Me for one .

If you're keeping the airbox I fail to see any point in re routing the breather . .

This is a long shot but my dad had a problem with an Astra. What was happening was that he would come home from work and park in the drive. Later on he would go out and drive it into the garage. Apparently this very short journey was confusing the automatic choke so that next time the car was started the choke either wouldn't come on or was it off? Can't remember the cure I'm afraid, don't know if this helps. Good luck.

Very cool bike and very well photographed . What effect have you applied in pic No.1 ? Looks like pencil drawing.

And here it is a few weeks later, I see the Geraniums are still in flower.http://i.imgur.com/yOB4PcI.jpg

Here's one of my CGs about two hours after I got it home. As you can see there's very little to them !http://i.imgur.com/wn19EZr.jpg

All done , couldn't find any chemical metal so I used peanut butter.

Smoothrite is very good and so is PJ1 who do gloss , matt and satin black if I recall.

Correct, I have no need to be a bell end about anything.

Ah so it's the description in the Honda parts catalogue that's wrong.http://i.imgur.com/B73cbEi.png

The return spring is probably broken or detached. What's the bike? Might be an easy fix, depends on whether its inside or outside the crankcase.

£200 ,grab it even if its a non runner, there's nothing on a CG that can't be fixed . I re built 8 of them a few years back so I pretty much know everything that can go wrong and how to fix it.

If you want to build a brat/cafe racer get a dead CG125 with a kick start for as little as possible. Sort it mechanically including a Battery Eliminator then chop and style it tastefully. If you get the right look people are selling these for £2,500 .like this...http://i.imgur.com/hy6DHad.png