TimR

Why assume all breakdowns happen on the left lane? At least with smart motor ways if a vehicle is broken down in any lane they have the ability to place a warning on gantry to cover that lane close to the location whilst on older motorways the signs or signals were set so far apart they may have warned you 3 miles ago but who pays attention. Smart motorways rely on the road users to manage and assess just as They would on ANY ROAD ... on an A road do you have any warning that car is stationary ahead whilst you are travelling at 70mph ,do you have room to manoeuvre on a single carriageway with opposing traffic ? And don't get me wrong i am not 100% pro smart motorways but i also deal with them on a daily basis . So is it the Governments fault entirely or do we as road users have to share the responsibility , from being more vigilant to making sure our vehicles are maintained and fit for the journey ?

I have 2 sets of race/track fairings for these ... Need a bit of TLC £100 (collected)

Ride for you .... Ride how you wish to ride. You don't have to be like the motogp riders,or the so called experts on YouTube . Being a biker is not what or how you ride ..Its Why you Ride .

Is the sound a clanking metallic noise ? If so it may be because you're missing the rubber stop that stops the centre stand clattering against the exhaust That goes Inthe hole in the bracket arrowed

DON'T CHECK TENSION ON A CENTRE STAND ...( Unless workshop/owners manual specify this ) As Suspension is unloaded ... And when you put bike on its wheels the tension changes and can be too tight .. Check it on sidestand or have someone holding bike upright

Yes it has to float otherwise it would tighten up on the bearings etc As long as you have the right top hat spacer in the right place ...there are 2 if i remember correctly ...the one shown and one in the cush drive housing . Both are different lengths so ...be sure

Re grinding the chain ... Remember where your fuel overflow / vent pipes are ! Sparky sparky The norm is to grind the heads off two of the rivets and then use the chain tool if needed. But generally the outer plate will fall off or lever off easier .

F2 front bodywork more boxy /wheels are different / forks / rear brakes...... I have some f2 stuff as well if i remember .

If its a 95-98 ft-fw i have quite a few parts inc a frame with v5 . Do have some track fairings as well ...not the prettiest of things but ....

May have removed 100ml but doesn't say to what level/reference point ie tostop it pouring out and could still be over 1ltr over the max mark

Am i not the only one thinking that if you have liquid flowing out of the dipstick hole that this is more than a small increase ? The redline is the max mark so that is s good few inches of excess fluid . Are you checking the level on centre stand or on its wheels ?

Re am " i"safer for all this training? Only if you put what you learn into practice. Anyone can put this facade in place throughout their test and show the Examiner what they want to see and pass . . I know quite a few who passed their Advanced test but then fail to put the system into their riding and suffer as a result or others around them suffer .But on paper they are still classed as Advanced Riders . Rospa you need to retest every three years so if you want that mandatory skill test then go for them .IAM you can now also take a Fellowship membership which requires you to retest each 3 years but you can just join under the standard membership and pass for life ( as long as you are a member). Biggest emphasis on Advanced Riding is to be a thinking rider and not ride by Rote . Which you don't have to be an Advanced Rider to understand or achieve ...

Level 3 is an acedemical based qualification ( no longer a diploma but similar ) and aimed towards those that teach/instruct for a living . You just need bog standard RoSPA search for ROADAR which is the advanced riders and drivers . Look at DVSA enhanced Riders Scheme as another Step towards Advanced Riding My journey has consisted of and Resulted in X3 Bikesafe DVSA enhanced Riders 11 Years Rospa Advanced (X9 Years Silver 2 years Gold ) IAM First IAM Masters ( Distinction) Does this make me any safer ? Best advice is look for reasons why not do to something rather than why you should.. Ie straight Road with a few cars in front.... Most Riders will go Game on...No opposing traffic... Overtake... I look for the smallest reason not to overtake ... In the distance signs showing left bend with a junction There are thousands of these across the country and we pass them every day with no issues.... But this is bordered by a yellow background ...This says to me that it has a History of Incidents and is highlighting that caution is to exercised and do i really want to be closing on this situation. Why Accelerate into a Dangerous Situation ?

Did you fully remove engine when you worked on the exhaust etc ... Ie chain off and away from frame ? If you removed the engine fully IS there are chance that the clutch operating Rod has been located Wrong ie two holes next to each other causing the clutch not to be fully enganging .?

No mention of her Riding it prior ... So you either transport the bike there via alternative means or Hubby/Friend etc rides it to the training facility as long as their insurance allows them to use other vehicles ( *check for the clause in some policies that don't cover you if the vehicle is owned by your spouse*) .. as the vehicle is still insured even though Wife is technically Not until she is under instruction .

Start of with what you can eliminate in the event of the unexplained/unexpected . Is your bike as it should be? Tyres pressure ok Tyre tread wearing evenly and present Suspension ok and no leaks All fastenings as should be All controls as should be Then check the Rider .... Then look for other factors which you may never replicate but if you do then repeat the above and see if you can find the cause ... 99% time you will find you get to Checking the rider and find that the issue could have been avoided if they had done x y z differently ie better observations or better application of rider control.

So . This was doing it before the engine work/oil filter change,? Had you undertaken any work prior to this fault occurring? What happens if you try to start the bike in gear with clutch pulled in and side stand up?

May be of some use https://www.tempcover.com/temporary-motorbike-insurance/learner-motorbike-insurance (Check t&c as just skimmed previously)

Why not ask the best quoted price insurance company . You could place her as a named rider or solo policy

https://youtube.com/shorts/C6JRM4opetc no smutty comments allowed. https://youtube.com/shorts/HKSDP5mEEH4 https://youtube.com/c/DominiqueRuiz

Ok looks like you are missing a spring also

Have you adjusted the cable ? Using the adjuster screw on the actuator ? https://www.beginnerbiker.com/2018/07/replacing-clutch-cable-yamaha-fazer-fzs600/

Few questions . ( You may have answered already but please humour me ) 1.Have you Removed ANY of the clutch system in the rebuild ? 2. Is the clutch lever action hard or soft to engage ?

No it's s standard Kawasaki zzr trait. choke is like a switch that off-2/3rds doesn't feel like it doesn't do anything ...the remaining 1/3rd sends it racing .. Just don't leave on too long .. Headers go very cherry red

Take carbs apart and thoroughly clean Don't rely on carb cleaning products .. They are for 'minor' problems . Get the basics right before anything