Colin the Bear

Currently having good results with ferodo. I don't like sintered pads. A soft pad will give better performance. A bit messy with the dust but I reckon they work out cheaper as the disc wear is less. And what a hassle changing the disc is compared to 10 mins changing the pads. (OK maybe 20 mins)

New barrel and head and trying to redline it. Mmm. Dunno

No need to guess. First post says it. Age 17 and 50cc. No problems. Apart from going uphill

I think it's what's known in the trade as "Job Creation"

You sure it's not just a rev limiter. Most powerful part of the rev range is never at the top. An engine with a red line at 10K would make peak power at 7to8K. You're not running out of power , you're hitting the maximum speed the engine can spin. The cheapest way to make power is cubic capacity. If you spend a fortune and double the power output, it will still only be 30bhp and then you'll run into handling problems. Same frame and tyres. The brakes won't be up to the increased demands, so they'll need upgrading.

This is my background. http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc261/Squeeze_Bang/Dumpy014.jpg I find it very soothing

WD40 as wonderful as it is, as an all rounder , isn't a very good penetrating oil. Get a specific penetrating oil with graphite. A small spray can , with capillary will come in handy for all sorts of jobs. Leave it near your tools.

A less tastey way of removing fluid is to use the top off a household pump spray. Stick the pipe in and use the trigger to pump it out. Easy fix eh?

I'd say you're being a bit too liberal with the copperslip. A smear is all that's needed. If it gets hot and drips onto the disc.......... Don't forget the cable tie trick for easy bleeding.

I'm sure with enough tinkering you could squeeze a few more break horse out of the 125Vtwin. This of course would be at the cost of reliability and shouldn't be more than twice the price of a 250/500cc bike. One does get attached to a machine. However if you like the Vtwin cruiser, have a look for a Yamaha XV250 Virago, or perhaps the 535 Virago, which takes a restriction very well and should cost less than you'll get for the shadow if you sell it. Google V.S.O.C for a cherished 2H bargain

NASA. ?

Could be water in the petrol I suppose. There should be a little screw / drain plug on the bottom of the carb to drain it out. It seems to coincidental to not be the oil. A new plug is always a good idea.

Never mind the self emptying ash tray, what about that haemorrhoid cushion

From what I can gather they recommend a fully synthetic 2 stroke oil. The lower spec scooter oil may well have fouled the plug. 10w/40 fully synthetic for the gear box. (Not car oil/ clutch slip) Seems like you're on the right lines.

All bikes have different service intervals. As a general rule, small sumps need changing more frequently than large ones. http://www.carlsalter,com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

Quick steel epoxy putty works well. Autosol the rust off and paint it black. http://www.hemmingsdiy.co.uk/quickste.htm

It would help if you put what bike we're dealing with. Scooter oil? Oil temperature guage? It's all a bit vague.

If you're just replacing the silencer then surely all the other pipes are already there. If you want to replace the whole system, then buy the whole system. Seems a lot of money and fuss for a cosmetic change on a bike you're probably aspiring to move up and away from.

Look what I found http://www.motorbike-search-engine-shop ... Lifts.html http://www.amazon.co.uk/1500LB-HYDRAULI ... 812&sr=8-4

Don't do this You'll lose oil, fuel and battery acid. A right mess. The Hyosung 125 isn't a big bike. Get some one to help and pop it up on some wood blocks.

http://www1.salvationarmy.org.uk/uki/ww ... endocument

The way you describe the level means it is below minimum. Put some in before you ride it. Bare in mind it only holds a litre in total so don't go mad. Try a quarter litre and recheck. If it's not there a drop more may be needed. It can cause problems if you over fill. It will cause serious problems if it's low. I wouldn't leave checking anything on the bike for 700 miles. If the bike was under filled on service it may use more than it normally would. Thus being even lower. Check your oil daily, or every time you ride. Easy with a dipstick. Do it with your pre ride inspections. If it's low put some in. Keep some handy for top ups. It's cheaper to buy a bigger bottle but for the size of your sump a litre should keep you going quite a while. Buy it from the bike shop till you get to know what you're doing. Some car oils although cheaper won't do in a bike.

If the clutch is slipping, the engine revs away merrily but the bike won't move. So it's not that. You can't run an engine without the air filter. It messes up the fuel air mixture by altering the air flow. Might be too rich, might be too weak. It may have fouled the plug. Give the bike a service. Put the bike back into standard trim. Change the fuel and start from there. Tinkering with what's not wrong won't fix it.

You Gran is Dame Edna?

A thumbs down means there's police ahead. Opposite to a thumbs up O.K.