Colin the Bear

http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc261/Squeeze_Bang/plug.jpg

If the connectors check out, try cleaning the bulb holder.

Be careful with powdered graphite as it conducts electricity. No good sorting the lock and blowing a fuse.

Untill you get to know what you're doing, buy your oil from a bike spares shop. Some car oils are not suitable for bikes. I'm thinking a 125 will need around one litre for a change. So not a big investment. Talk to the guys in the bike spares shop where you buy the oil. The oil change is the simple act of letting the oil out of the bottom of the engine, via the drain plug. Refilling with suitable oil and checking the level. Read the Haynes. Do what it says. Use the oil it says to use. The wrong oil will scrap the engine.

Your key may be worn. Try using your spare. No spare? Order one today

Probably not but just might be the earth. The lead from the battery that bolts to the frame or the earth return from the indicator circuit.

I would have no worries about a repaired tyre, especialy on the rear. However, if you're down to 2.5mm after 2K miles I think it's optimistic to expect much more than 3 maybe 4K miles. Your legal limit is 1mm, so is it worth all the hassle for 1.5mm of soft tyre, that's probably getting squared off and past it's best. I'd replace it.

Less tread, more punctures

Stand infront of the bike, facing the rear, with the front wheel between your knees. Squeeze the wheel with your knees, grab the bars and pull them about. Any clicking or movement needs sorting. To check wheel alignment. Long piece of string in a long U shape around front wheel and take the ends to the back. This will give you a reference to look along the length of the bike. If this is getting worse, I would advise you stop using it untill it's diagnosed and fixed. Something may let go and spit you off.

That tyre looks done to me, not much tread there in the middle

Steering head uses taper bearings, and if adjusted too tightly and then left standing , will develop a notch in the straight ahead position. Wheelies can cause the same thing. Seeing as this has developed some time after an off, I'd be having a good look round, especially at the front end. A knock can loosen nuts, bolts and fasteners that then start to unscrew and work loose. Any fractures that may have been caused may open up with use. Get the font end off the ground and give it a good pull about. check all fasteners, inpect the wheels/tyres for buckling and alignment, and have a look round the frame. If you can't find anything or you're not sure what you're looking for and the problem persists. get it looked at.

The geometry of the swing arm on some bikes means that as the suspension compresses, the chain gets tighter. If you have the chain to tight it limits the movement of the suspension. If it's humming like a bowstring, when you're riding, it's too tight. However, too loose and it will come off. You need the "Goldilocks" setting.

Oi, piss off! I happen to think leather looks really rather bloody fantastic! It does. However, you're supposed to wear it, not the fekin bike.

Steering vague or wandering could be Tyre, wheel bearings, damaged rim, head bearings, wheel alignment, damaged frame, too much beer, wind or ice.

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/items/__100+80-1 ... 459_228460 Stick to a well known make, Pirrelli Michelin Avon Bridgestone Metzler come to mind. Stick the size and make in google and read some reviews. You'll get a bit of a feel for what there is and what they're like. To be honest for p rated tyre for a light motorcycle I would have thought they would be much of a muchness, so convenience of fitting and availability localy may have more of an influence on your decision.

More relevant than the make of the bike, is the size of the wheels. With a wheel size, manufacturers can be searched to find out what is available. A different tread pattern may give a better grip on the loose stuff without too much of a compromise on road grip. Be aware though that no tyre will grip wet mud. You need to adjust your riding tecnique to cope with off road situations and some bikes just won't do it, no matter what you fit or how you ride. Edit. Just googled your bike. If this is it, http://skyjetowners.webs.com/forsale.htm KEEP OFF THE GRASS

A poorly lubed, loose chain may have worn the drive sprocket. Check the shape of the teeth. They should look symetrical. Any sign of a hook shape or uneveness and you need to replace chain and sprockets in the near future.

If you're in that much of a rush why bother. Just bump it and park on a hill.

Does anybody beside me use a Hydrometer? http://www.trueshopping.co.uk/product.p ... Hydrometer

Warm the plug. Clean and gap it then stick it in a blue flame to dry and warm it. Gas cooker is good. Pop it back in the motor quick before it cools. Helps to stop flooding wetting the plug when it's cold.

Chinese bikes are very disappointing. Poor quality metal used throughout so that they drop to bits before your very eyes. Sometimes on the go.

So a scarf then

The main earth comes from the battery to the frame. Make sure battery terminals are not loose and the other end is secure. A battery in a poor state of charge will give similar symptoms.

I believe they are cut differently.