Colin the Bear

The first thing to buy is the manual. You can then see what each job entails before you start. Chain and sprockets is a bit in at the deep end for a novice. How about a free download here. http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

Or anywhere convenient along that wire. Might be an idea to not cut it so you can refit the old horn if you sell the bike.

It may help to think like this. A relay is just a switch. Instead of flicking it with your finger it is electricaly operated by a button or switch. A relay is used to switch on an application because the power said application draws is too much for the circuit the switch is on. So you have two circuits independant of each other. A low power circuit to throw the switch. This switch turns on the high power circuit with the application on it. Hope that helps

GSXR600 engine soft tuned. GSXR750 Brakes Gixser without the X factor

GSXR = Gixser

Put the multimeter on volts DC nearest range over 12v. Measure voltage accross battery terminals with the engine stopped. Put the meter on a higher DC volts range,start the engine, measure the voltage accross the battery terminals. Voltage should go up from 12v ish to 13v ish maybe 14. If it shoots up high, the regulator rectifier is duff and will probably have cooked the battery. No increase could be the alternator or the rectifier or a break in the wiring. Check the battery for fluid. If it's low , top it up with distilled water. Melted Freezer ice will be ok as it has been de ionised. If the battery has been cooked it will not hold a charge after charging and will need replacing. All this will be in a Haynes manual with drawings, photos and specific information for your bike.

Battery charger? Bought myself this one £10 in wilkinsons. Basic but practical http://www.wilkinsonplus.com/bin/venda? ... submit.y=8 Multimeter £5. Sheesh that even surprised me. No excuse now to not have one. http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?mod ... 2AodzQydlA

It looks like it's a foam air filter element. So soak in clean , new engine oil , squeeze out xs and fit. A more economic sysyem than a paper diposable element. Don't be too rough with it or it may tear and be useless. At service time wash and re oil. Simples.

Oooh! Turned into Yoda you have http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/Yoda.gif Still can't find a manual. However the basics should be in your owners hand book.

Butt connectors also work ok. The meter works the same as a bulb and battery. The setting you've indicated has a symbol for a diode(A one way system). So that will be the diode tester. Probably. I would have thought. Some meters have a continuity setting which is high range resistance with a buzzer for a low reading. Handy for checking and searching without having to look at the meter. If you have a circuit the bulb lights up. It's a simple system developed for when a meter isn't available made from bits lying around the workshop. Put the meter on high range resistance (A big number of Ohms) and look for it reading zero.( No resistance/ bulb lights/buzzer sounds) The instruction book with the meter can be quite instructional if it's not written in Chinindiangermanofrenchgobbledegook.

Does sound like a short. Could be the insulation has rubbed through somewhere and a bare wire is touching the frame. You on the Bird forum? http://www.bikersoracle.com/blackbird/forum/index.php? There's a guy on there called Jaws who's pretty good with them.

http://www.wemoto.com/index.dyn?oid=5835826 Can't find a free one

Don't put knackered old shite on your bike. Get your old one mended. The right new part can work out cheaper than the wrong second hand part. People other than Honda make bits for your bike.

I can't find a manual for your bike You might have more success here http://www.suzukiownersclub.co.uk/default.asp

It's a 2stroke not a four stroke. Fill the reservoir. It takes it as it needs it. And get a manual.

Why on earth would you go to all the trouble of replacing a monoshock and use a 13 year old second hand unit. Get yours refurbished. The VFR has evolved and changed almost yearly to where it is now. It may be lees stress and cost to replace with pattern parts. Pattern levers aren't dear.

The tank may vent through the filler. However.......... The condition of the plug tells you what's happening in the combustion chamber. A little black means you're running rich. However without a standard air filter adjusting anything is pointless. Fit an air filter and clean the plug. You can't dig a hole in a different place by digging the same hole deeper.

Fuel tank breather? Wet air apparently makes the engine run better. The moisture acts as a catalyst for the burn. What's the plug like?

It'll take a lot of polishing out if you don't like it.

A ticking noise , may be a high tension short.

Anodising consists of an electricaly induced oxidised layer on polished aluminium. This can be dyed for effects like gold or blues and reds. It can then be laquered. As the laquer chips it lets the salt in. Caustic soda will remove the anodised layer. Steady as you go though. Soaking in a weak solution gives best results. For small areas I've had good results using an electric toothbrush and good old Autosol. Followed by toothpaste , a cheap fine polish. The dremel tends to throw the polish off with its spin action whereas the oscillating of the toothbrush lets you work it.

Take the battery off and charge it overnight. If everthing is fine then you have a charging problem. Alternator or reulator may be at fault. If the battery doesn't charge you need a new battery. Don't forget to top up the battery with distilled water. A melted chunk of ice from the freezer will do.

Never had a problem, even with my not road legal drag pipes. Don't know anybody that has. If you do I'd change MoT tester.

Less is more Take a doggy bag.

Give it a service. Any bike will need a carb tweek after fitting a sport exhaust. Maybe a colder plug