Colin the Bear

Service the bike. Regular lubing and keeping an eye on tyre pressures will help. Clothing should be tight fitting and wind proof. Stuff flapping about or billowing will create drag. Don't accelerate hard. Reading the road can eliminate unnecessary braking. Keep revs around peak torque. Buy a car. Lots of new ones will laugh at 50mpg

And if all else fails. Replace reservoir.

It's very unlikely to be anything to do with chain and sprockets as the noise is linked with engine revs not wheel speed. Check your oil. If you take it to the garage to have the oil checked, they may sell you a new house

Soak in? You have a textile chain?

Ask a grown up to get the lid off. This works best with blokes but some grown up females have a good grip. When they come round leave out any pickles and jam that may need opening too.

Carry on Biking , ride the shaft. Seriously tho I wouldn't go back to chain drive. Too much faffing about

If you let the chain run dry, apart from the non stick pan stuff, it's too late and the damage has been done. Mileage is a car thing. Bikes should be checked before you ride every time. With more experience you can tell by just looking. Little and often is best. Too much and it will fly off contaminating brakes and tyres. All the fussing with chain drive led me to the shaft. All hail the shaft.

A cheap multimeter can solve so many little problems like this. You should invest.

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/Flag-1.gif Pop to garage with a simple problem. Oh dear it's completely unsafe to ride, replace eveything, and by the way the air is getting old in the tyres. Has the clicking stopped? It's going to cost you a fortune having the routine everyday adjustments done at the shop. The routine stuff is really simple, and you have the book. If you have specific questions to ask there's a wealth of practical advice and guidance on here. Don't wait till the next problem. Read the book, look at the bike. Then with the book have a go.

If you've done your pre ride checks, which includes checking the chain tension then the problem won't be chain tension or lubrication or condition. Make sure to rotate the wheel and check at different points along the chain. They stretch and develop tight and slack spots. Do you have a local bike meet? A local bike club? Get down there and pick their brains. Diagnosing a fault on a forum can be a bit hit and miss and clicking under acceleration is a bit vague. Taking your bike to a garage to check the chain shouts newbie and is asking them to rob you unless you know and trust them or they are recommended or you have warranty. Riders need to know how a bike works and understand how to check it over. It's not a car. Even low tyre pressure can spit you off. Bikes need a lot more attention to detail and adjustments making between services. Getting these minor adjustments done at a garage will increase monetary expenditure considerably. Its not complicated, just a lot of simple things bolted together.

Much like any product made to fit the human form, the numbers rarely match the subject. This vital piece of safety equipment must fit properly or it is useless and may even cause more damage in an incident if it fits poorly. Ordering a replacement helmet, same model/manufacturer there's a chance it will fit the same but for a new helmet you need to try it on. Helmets come in a variety of shapes, lengths,widths and depths. Just like heads. Please don't buy it because it's a pretty colour at a bagain price. Buy it because it fits properly and is a pretty colour at a bargain price.

And don't forget the proper lubricants. Copperslip etc. where relevant. Less is more.

Not being able to fix things is one thing. Not being able to do standard checks is quite another. Checking chain tension is very simple. There are guides on here. An owners manual will show you how. I'm presuming you haven't done your pre ride checks.

Make sure you have fitted the retaining springs and clips properly. Had this once when a spring clip had moved slightly and was fouling. The lever needing to move further may mean that something is pushing the piston back in further than it needs to. The cable tie thing worked for me and was recommended because it worked for others. I can't think of a logical explanation of why or how it should work but it does in a lot of cases.

I came off on some diesel at a roundabout a few years back while leading a ride out. I highsided and did a superman landing face first on the tarmac. It all happened in a split second. I was winded but not hurt. The front of my helmet took a beating and saved my face. A lot of the guys in the ride were wearing open face helmets to go with the cruiser style. When I got back on the road several weeks later most of them were wearing full face. Sh!t happens. A full face helmet that fits properly shouldn't restrict your vision or movement and should feel comfortable. Try lots on. My unusual head shape means I'm restricted to Veemar and certain AGV helmets, but when shopping I try everything on. I seem to remember there's a safety issue with chin straps which is why you're finding it hard to find one.

Dey all well difrent man. Dey int 2 same. Look like sumink for holding sumink to sumink else to me.

It better man you buy manual it have instructions how to mend and that innit. It have pics and drwings and even tell you wat tools to buy. It hard to fix sumink if you dunt know how it werks. You know any adults. They good at fixin stuff and know things.

Anything can be dis assembled with the right tools. Quite quickly with a sledge hammer

Touring leathers won't be suitable for a track day and a racing suit is a big investment and not best for touring. Oiling leathers will give them a limited rain resistance but nothing like textiles. Racers wear an overjacket I like to wear a leather jacket on all rides. For touring I pack a waterproof overjacket, overpants and gloves. Good boots make all the difference in a downpour. If you're happy with what you've got I'd stick with it. Nothing like getting new gear that lets you down and leaving the tried and tested at home. You'll know better what you need when you get back.

I'm too good looking to risk an open face helmet. OK if you have nothing to lose I suppose. Be a shame to have a nice chin and no nose

On "L" plates, increasing the performance of your bike will invalidate your licence and insurance.

No option for no airbag required. Nearly went for in my "rousers"

Time to hang up the sports and go for a feet forward cruiser. It comes to us all

Using a long lever to undo a stubborn stud/bolt/nut is not recommended. The usual outcome is the head shearing off. An impact driver applies the force in little /short bursts and will have a happier outcome.

And you can't change it too often.