Bianco2564

I work in Northampton and the roads around there are in a shocking state. I have reported numerous craters on my route into work and between Rugby and Daventry,but don't hold out much hope,Northants council has run out of money. On the A5 near Dav,there is a crater in the centre of the road about 6 ft long and looks about 4 inches wide,not enough to trouble a car but would surely have a motorcycle over.

What inlet pressure does your set recommend? On our Snap On set we use airline pressure in the shop,about 6bar. Yes very good at diagnosing where any issues lie.

On the gauges,the left hand is the supply pressure,its only 2 bar?

Exhaust clean? The inside not the outside BTW. 2 strokes are fussy about exhaust back pressures.

Yes you can dress it with a bearing scraper,not something an inexperienced hand should attempt though. If a bearing is seriously scored it should be replaced,crank polished or ground with appropriate sized shells and the cause of the scoring investigated. You sat polish the scratches,do you mean scratches in the shell or journal?

I tell you what mate, your bolt keeping method is spot on. When I did my ZXR I just chucked everything in a magnetic tray and trusted my memory. I do the same,bit of cardboard,draw the shape of the casing and poke the bolts through in the correct location.

Surely if you remove shallow scoring with wet and dry this means effectivly lowering the surrounding surface to match the depth of the scoring. Would this not increase the likelihood of excessive play in the bearings ? I am by no means an expert but I would have thought that a little scoring might be better left alone. I am keen to know what the thinking is here . PS do you mean the shells rather than the caps ? It is acceptable to lightly polish crank journals with very fine abrasive tape to clean it up,spun up in a lathe.However,as you say removing too much will increase the bearing clearances so best left to someone experienced I'd say.You would need to measure the journals with a micrometer to check if they are still in spec.Any deep scores in the crank will not necessarily scrap it but again someone with experience would need to say what is acceptable. Under no circumstances touch the bearing shells with abrasive.The outer layer (white metal) is very soft and you will easily damage it or impregnate it with particles of the abrasive. To check the bearing clearances,you can use a product called plastigage.Basically a thin plasticene roll squashed between crankshaft and rod or main bearing,the less clearance,the wider the plastigage is spread.Don't know in particular what clearances on the Triumph are but 0.038 to 0.050 mm on a big end would sound about right.Any more and the oil film cannot support the load and it will hammer the bearing.This would be a heavy knocking sound rising with engine speed. This would be the clicking test MW refered to. Judging from the pics,the bearings looked ok with just normal running marks that go with the age of the engine.

Second ring aswell. Could be the bores worn as much as the rings,measuring ring gaps will tell you if there is wear but not where.Would need a bit of kit like this to measure them. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metric-Dial-Bore-Gauge-50-160MM-0-01MM-Bridge-Cylinder-Internal-Bore-Measuring/273050023547?hash=item3f930cb67b:g:KboAAOSwlpZacr5h Need to check the finish in the bores aswell,is there any honing left? If everything measures up ok, it may just need a flickhone of the bores and new rings?

11Kw is about 14hp,good luck with that in a road going 50cc. My RGV250 supposed to make about 60hp so a fifth of that is 12hp. The RGV can only achieve this with massive exh ports and 2 stage power valves,if it didnt have these it would be unrideable on the road,powerband is only about 2500rpm as it is. By all means have a go at tuning it,I know I did when a yoof, but dont expect high power,rideability and reliability to go hand in hand.

As above,know when to cut your losses before you spent more on it than you would recover. Used motors on the bay starting at £200-400,pick one that has some kind of warranty,fit it and sell it(which was the plan all along?) You can then sell your engine as spares.

All the dopey car drivers with auto headlights who don't think to switch them on manually when the visibility is poor but not dark enough to switch on automatically.

Doesnt appear so. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2000-Triumph-Sprint-955i-RS-955-i-engine-motor-crankcase-cases/301981453628?hash=item464f7f4d3c:g:lSUAAOxyDEVScs7o

From what I can gather from net,the Triumph barrels are integral to the upper crankcase so pistons will go in from the top so a conventional ring clamp would work.. Hyabusa barrels are separate so pistons in from below hence your use of jubilee clips?

A quick Google shows the triple is a bit prone to losing valve clearance due to seat and valve wear.

Screw in the compression tester, make sure all other cylinders Dont have spark plugs in (so engine turns over at least 300rpm) Also turning the engine over by hand wont generate enough pressure to read properly so has to be done with starter motor If the TDC isnt accurate then the valve timing Will be off, and that seriously affects PSI Throttle should be wide open aswell. Don't have the spark plugs in the leads while cranking,fuel will still be drawn in and spat out the plug hole,any spark will ignite the fuel (seen it happen) Also crank the engine on the starter until the pressure gauge stops rising. Assume your battery is in good health and its cranking at the normal speed?

Ah, shhheeeeiiiiahhhttt! I did not do that. I’ll get the head back off and do the checks and make sure I have it all right. The cams were spot on, going from memory. I had the pictures of where the arrows positio and the teeth were right, but I will check and check. This is so vital, because I want to make it so I can show others how they don’t need to scrap a bike, or get into debt for repairs. I have to finish this. I might end up keeping this bike. No need to remove the head to check the clearances,just the cam cover. Procedure should be in Haynes manual.

May have missed it in your posts but you have checked the valve clearances when the head was back on?

Couple of points. Why don't you strip all the valves out,lap in one at a time and give a final clean then reassemble? Keep all the parts in order to where they come from. The lapping paste can spread around and get under the valves just have just put back in and cause wear later. Be careful when handling the valves you don't transfer any paste onto the stem. Are you able to check the run out or bend of the valves? Trying to lap a bent valve is futile. Can you get anyone to do a vacuum test on the seats once lapped?An engine recon place can help with this. Failing that,some engineers blue can show up any dodgy seats. When reinstalling the collets,use a pair of tweezers or stick then to a small screwdriver with a bit of grease.They can be fiddly little jokers. When cleaning the top of the barrels,be mindful of any dirt,old gasket or bits of scotchbrite dropping down the side of the piston.

Got my refund sorted and free tickets to Aberdare race.

I have been twice at Rockingham,an hour on the road with the Rozzers and 15 mins on track for £35.Bargain.

That totally sucks,was really looking forward to it. Luckily I can cancel my hotel for free and have requested a refund on the tickets.

Can't you make your own out of 14mm hex bar?

We have been organising our loft the last couple of weekends,uncovered some stuff I knew was up there somewhere. When I bought my Honda SS125 in 1998,I was given a genuine workshop manual,parts book,owners handbook,sales brochure and even a pair of leather goggles that the first owner,a Mr James Brown (yes really) of Coventry used to wear.I later bought a bike mag from 1968 with a road test of the Honda. I also found a sales brochure from mid 70s that featured the GT380. And finally I found a set of top trumps cards of light motorcycles that me and my brother's used to play with. I guess only people of a certain age will understand these. Oh how easily amused we once were.

Arai,Spidi one piece leathers,Alpinestar boots,Spada summer or Dainese winter gloves,Alpinestar showerproof jacket,Alpinestar one piece rain suit on R1 or RGV. Arai,battered leather jacket,pair of jeans for GT380

Yep definitely be there.