Marino

Maybe something like this, not so expensive, no contracts, but don’t think any discount from insurance https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/mcn/content_prod/246089/?_ga=2.227086941.1397477368.1511958605-420491109.1488536606&utm_source=referral&utm_medium=MCN&utm_campaign=Top%204%20GPS%20trackers&utm_content=Top%204%20GPS%20trackers#/500,2113,767

Just subscribed, keep it interesting so I don’t have to unsubscribe

As well Hull to Amsterdam, but 8 days in not enough, from Amsterdam to Pisa is 1000 km on the motorway 10 to 12 hrs fast riding no long breaks. If you want to use more interesting roads than 3 days to Italy and let’s say 2 to 3 days back by 10 hrs a day in the saddle. It can be painful. Except if you are not use to spend few hrs daily on the motorcycle. I did Croatia to Scotland and back few years back, 12 days very tight schedule and lot of motorways miles.

Don’t be so hard with me I just propose one of the solutions for speed cameras, I don’t need it as I am usually 1 or 2 miles below the limit. Even my wife call be grandpa driver.

I spent some time on the race track as I lived just few miles from, and I had zx6r 1995 model with normal mount calliper, than I got zx6r model 2005 with radial mounted callipers and honestly I did not feel so much difference. Maybe I wasn’t fast enough or didn’t squeeze that brake so hard. Only difference I could notice when changing brake pads with some race stile pads and of course with right breake lines.

Yesit is important to plan and test before you make some holes, especially if you want to secure two bikes on same ground anchor. As well to think if you decide to change your bike. I actually placed bike on abba stand and then looked for best anchor position, and it work when bike is of the stand. Probability will work for many different bikes as well. Important is to get chain long enough, 1.8m and 2.0m, les than 1.8 will be short.

I got this one not necessarily from same shop, but price is more or less same. 4 ground bolts. After I drilled holes I fill them with gorilla glue, just in case. And you can squeeze two chains trough the eye. https://www.merlincycles.com/abus-wba-100-ground-anchor-90258.html?utm_campaign=googlebase-GB&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shopping&utm_term=Bike+Locks+%26+Security&ucpo=31636&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpvDG2Mnv4AIVybvtCh3irgX1EAQYByABEgJm9_D_BwE

Domestic https://www.speedflip.com/product-info

In that case, this is solution ">

Here is the link that some people may find useful http://www.hesgoal.com/ Not just for moto gp, all sports

That is the biggest difference

And some more https://revzilla.imgix.net/blog_content_image/image/9353/20140715_Brake-Diagram-Axial-Radial-Caliper.jpg?w=598&dpr=2&auto=compress%2Cformat

Incomplete attachment Radial brakes seem to be all the rage among the sportbike crowd, right? What are they? What's the fuss? Why are they in use? What else is there? Let's "brake" it down! OK, I'll stop. When you hear someone talking about radial brakes, they may be talking about radial-mounted calipers or radial master cylinders. Let’s look at both, and discuss why they are gradually replacing their conventional counterparts on high-performance bikes. Radial master cylinders For as long as there have been juice brakes (that's Uncle Loomis talk for hydraulic brake systems), there have been axial master cylinders. In an axial master setup, the master cylinder's bore runs perpendicular to the lever travel. A protrusion on the lever pushes the plunger in the cylinder to force fluid to the calipers, which squeeze the pads and make you stop. Axial master cylinders are still in use on all but the highest-performance bikes. How come? They work well and have been in use for decades. Why reinvent the wheel? But this section is called radial master cylinders, so let's talk about those. Radial cylinders move the piston in the master cylinder in a direction parallel to the lever travel. That's it. That’s the big difference. So in practical terms, what does a radial master cylinder get us? Quite simply, improved feel through parts with more rigidity. Rigidity is key to obtaining consistent, crisp braking feel. Many riders say a radial master gives more precise feel through the feedback the rider gets. Many brake levers allow for lever position adjustment, but a few aftermarket units also allow adjustments in the linkage to give greater or lesser mechanical advantage to the lever. This allows fine tuning of the feel. Some riders, like Showroom Expert Bob, prefer a linear feel the whole way through the lever's travel. Others, like our Training Sensei Eric, prefer a big hit of stoppin’ juice right up front and then modulate that big dose of brakes after the initial bite. Radial-mount brake calipers When someone mentions "radial brakes," they’re usually talking about radial-mount calipers. For the longest time, calipers have been mounted to bosses that were cast into the lower fork tubes using bolts that run parallel with the axle. Radial calipers have similar bosses cast into the stanchions, but they are cast so that the caliper mounting bolts run perpendicular to the axle. What does this mean? Well, as you can see in the illustration above, the braking forces transmitted are all in line with the direction of wheel rotation. There is no opportunity for deflection because the braking forces are on the exact same plane as the rotational forces. There is no increase in braking power with a radial setup versus a conventional rig. Rather, the lack of torsional flexing (lateral movement) means crisper-feeling brakes at the lever. Although it may seem nearly imperceptible, that tenth of a millimeter or so that the calipers are allowed to deflect simply feels to the rider like a mushy brake lever. The other benefit to these systems is that larger rotors can typically be fitted simply by spacing the caliper farther from its mounts. A traditional setup requires a custom mounting bracket, at a bare minimum, to make such a change. Larger rotors increase the mechanical advantage the caliper has on the rotor, which typically yields (you guessed it!) better braking feedback. Why do we have this radial stuff? These days, improvements in braking are subtle. The transition, say, from drum to disc brakes, or from cable to juice setups, was certainly noticeable to riders who experienced them, but we are reaching a point where improvements in sportbike braking are becoming sublime. Most bikes stop plenty fast for most riders, so the current focus is on making the brake system provide better feel for improved modulation. Until recently, feel was really only altered through pad and rotor composition, rotor size, and brake line material. In the quest for superlative braking feedback, enterprising engineers began tweaking the moving parts of the hydraulic system. Do we need all this just to come to a stop on a streetbike? Didn't axial master cylinders and traditional calipers do that just fine for years? Sure they did. But in the racing world, where maximum braking happens several times a lap and feel and feedback make the difference between victory and disaster, the tiny advantages of radial brakes add up. Since today's sportbikes reflect the technology honed in racing, you can find radial brakes right on your dealer's showroom floor.

That is as per experts https://revzilla.imgix.net/blog_content_image/image/9352/20140715_Brake-Diagram-Axial-Radial-Lever.jpg?w=598&dpr=2&auto=compress%2Cformat

Most of the car drivers don’t think about bicycles and motorcycles. Their brain expect cars and what eyes see brain will not process. We are as bikers more alert so when we are in the car we have different mental setup. I had so many accidents when I was living in Croatia and Italy, due to completely different mentality, so I have learn to be much more careful and to predict other people reactions. Especially around roundabouts, once driver decided to go he will go.

To introduce Gizmo, little dog Waiting for his mum to return from work Paws washing

There is pretty good demo On ytube by Delboys garage so check it

Really no idea about what is better or safer, wood or metal, I keep my beauty in the classic brick made garage but if I could I will keep it in the leaving room. It’s dry, safe and I can look at it all day

Its good, princely but good, I got it as soon it was released premium pack and I am really happy with it. I had and still have old TomTom rider 2 got it more than 10 years ago, and works good just memory is not big enough anymore to support all Europe. So I am just use to it and to MyDrive application for tomtom. If money is not an issue than go for it

I would not worry about where to stay as long there are camping sites on the way. But depend where and when you want to go. If you will go to Mediterranean, from may to September it is good idea to book hotels in advance. As well camping. If you are going to be in Germany,Austria there is a lot of camping sites and all are good equipped and always you will find the spot for one tent. From tools side, all depends from your knowledge and skills. I personally have tire repair kit plus tire foam (that is the firs and best solution for fast and clean repair), and portable compressor to inflate the tires. Of course chain lube as well. Cable ties and duct tape are must. For anything else there is the master card.

Look like we are in the same business, I am on deck (chief mate), but if u are engineer probably ur hearing was damaged there, or , I remember working on the petrol tankers in the cargo room just on top of the cargo pumps, few years there and ur hearing is affected. About hearing protection on the motorbike I do agree, but don’t know if can be affected if u have original exhaust and ih u are riding from time to time 1 or 2 hours. Maybe people who are on the bike every day for few hours and got akra os similar without silencers. But maybe I am wrong, should consult someone who knows more than me/us Any doctor here? Yes I'm in the same business. Old Man on Suezmax tankers. A few years ago there was a report that the low frequency vibrations on low speed marine diesels which are continuous so long as the M/E is running will negatively affect your hearing regardless of where you are working on the ship. Given my average voyage length berth to berth is 40 days that's a lot of exposure. This is thought to be the prime cause of my hearing loss although it can't be proved. It's also why the MCA are pushing hearing as part of the ENG1 in older seamen. As usual they want younger people and get rid of us oldies, I am fortunately on cruisers last 15 years. So far I just can say my sight is slightly down 19/20 and hearing is same since I was 20. Who knows for how long.

Like that solution but look uncomfortable I'm sure you will get used to it if you do it often enough, what with the doom sayers saying it won't be long till the scurge of electricity will be upon us I see you will have lots of time to enjoy the new placement of your akra pipe At least wil make some noise, when I decide to.

i5n2fo.jpg Like that solution but look uncomfortable

So where to install akra pipe?

Look like we are in the same business, I am on deck (chief mate), but if u are engineer probably ur hearing was damaged there, or , I remember working on the petrol tankers in the cargo room just on top of the cargo pumps, few years there and ur hearing is affected. About hearing protection on the motorbike I do agree, but don’t know if can be affected if u have original exhaust and ih u are riding from time to time 1 or 2 hours. Maybe people who are on the bike every day for few hours and got akra os similar without silencers. But maybe I am wrong, should consult someone who knows more than me/us Any doctor here?