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I'm sure that's not a bike lid. It's a car lid. Just done a google. Hmmmmmm...... http://members.multimania.co.uk/ourbikes/arai_RV.html EDIT: This lid must be a pretty old model. Loo at the Arai website and it nowhere to be found. http://www.whyarai.co.uk/?theme=moto

I had been riding 8 months before I went and did the RHRS (Ron Haslam Race School) http://www.silverstone.co.uk/experience ... ce-School/ It was at Donnington at the time. Silverstone looks awesome!!

If you stuff it at the RHRS then you have nothing to pay. They just won't let you back on track. I did it a few years ago. Great morning out! It's ideal for the first time on track without fear of damaging your own bike.

You'll save yourself some money if you take loose wheels. Last time I got mine done from a main Honda dealer it only cost me 20 something £.

http://www.healtech-electronics.com/

Would look better with carbon fibre side pods. Don't like the see through one's.

If your speedo reads from the front spocket then you will need to get a speedo healer as it'll knock it out slighty too. http://www.healtech-electronics.com/

I had the S800 Shark for my first lid. The quality of the bits inside was ok and it was machine washable but started to get shabby after 6/8 months. Make sure you get one that has the Double D ring fastening mechanism. The S800 had a seat belt type fastener and after about 2/3 months kept blood loosening itself. Was forever having to tighten it which got really boring.

Why don't take it to the dealers and ask them? They will put it right if it needs sorting.

I have a Richa textile jacket for sale. I'm 5'7" so not exactly tall myself. It has a winter lining and loads of pockets. At least Two outside zip and 1 inside zip. Full length waist zip. It has adjustable arm straps to accommodate skinny or chunky arms. Reflective strips front back and sides as you can see in the pics. It does leak a little in the heavy rain though and always has done (supposed to be waterproof). I've heard you can buy products to waterproof it like Nikwax but never bothered. PM me if you're interested. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v655/paul_adi1/bike%20stuff%20for%20sale/P3140014.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v655/paul_adi1/bike%20stuff%20for%20sale/P3140031.jpg

I'll put a 3rd name to these. Best tyres I've used to date.

Very nice photos bud. Where's the write up though? We want to know what you thought of the trip as whole and any interesting bits along the way.

Exactly right.

In other words. They've spit their dummy out.

BT021's are renowned for uneven wear on the front tyre. Mine did exactly the same thing. Do a google and you'll see you're not the only one. Same thing happened to a mate of mine. He managed to get a Bridgestone Rep round to have a look at his and got a replacement. Mine where due to be replaced. I went for the Michelin Pilot Road 2's and never looked back. I will never use Bridgestone on a bike again.

Try this link. http://www.gostar-racing.com/club/motor ... set-up.htm This is how I learnt about suspension. It's not a lot but I learnt to set my bike up just how I want it. You need to stiffen up pre load and compression when carrying a pillion or heavy luggage. Or both...

Have a great trip. Looking forward to the photos and write up.

This might be a bit out of your way if you're heading to Limerick..... Look at the map in particular spot G (no puns) Glenmacnass Waterfall. Or get yourself through the Wicklow Mountains. Or Both. Quickest way is to come down the N11 then across. Like I said it could be a bit too much of a detour though. I've never ridden the roads but used to work over in Co Wicklow a good few years back fitting Sky Digi. We were based in Wicklow and covered a 30 mile radius. Stunning scenery everywhere. If you ride down any of the B roads (shall we call them) be careful of non existent junction markings. When we first got over there we couldn't understand why everyone was driving so slow. Then after about the 3rd crossroads you just realised you'd driven straight through at 60 you started to slow down too Hope this helps. Looking forward to the write up. I've ridden in N. Ireland a few years ago when I went to watch the Bush Road Races but would love to ride Southern one day. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v655/paul_adi1/SallyGap.jpg

Got to agree with Techno on this one. Here's why.... Rossi (won't let me embed) 26 sec in. "> All the big guns in MotoGP use the clutch to down shift. edit PG to show clip

I said this so he doesn't rush his first lot of clutch-less changing. We both know that when he gets the hang of it it will take less time than that. On a different note: (for OP) You want to use your clutch for down-shifting so you can learn how to blip the throttle. That'll get you noticed

Clutchless shifting makes life much easier IMO. After moving off I use the clutch to get to second if it's a normal sedate move off, but if it's spirited then no clutch. No clutch for the rest of the gears going up. Make sure you have pressure on the gear level before you want to change then roll off the throttle slightly, wait for the gear to go in, then back on the throttle. Should only take a couple of seconds. Much quicker and saves you using your left hand all the time, which can become a bind. I ALWAYS use the clutch to come down the gear box. You can manage without the clutch but you have to be so precise it's not worth it. If you get it wrong and change too early you can easily lock the back wheel up. Use the clutch to get a smooth seamless change and use engine braking to full effect. Hope this helps.

You don't want it too tight. Do you have a centre stand? At least make sure all the weight is off the back wheel. Then put your finger at underneath the chain making sure you are equal distance between front and rear sprockets. Get a tape measure and have it vertical from the floor. Measure where the chain is at from rest then push it up. You should 1.5 to 2cm of travel. The clicking sounds like your chain is too tight.

You won't burn the clutch out by holding the lever in. You're right about it being a wet clutch. In a car the time when you get clutch wear is when you're engaging it and the plates are not synced. This doesn't happen on a bike.

Shouldn't be going into neutral when rolling up. Get it into 1st on approach then neutral when stopped. Think that's how I was taught? Or just stay in 1st unless your hand is aching. If you get into the right gear and the lights change then no mucking about, clutch in 1st, you're just away.

Hi I'm a Driving Instructor It's good that you understand the 2 second rule, but that only applies at speeds over 40mph. So as you are approaching hazards such as roundabouts and the speed starts to decrease then your separation distance distance will decrease until you stop behind the vehicle in front. If/when you do need to stop behind a vehicle, then as long as you make sure you leave enough distance (just think that if the vehicle in front breaks down you have the room to go round) you'll be fine. At speeds up to 30mph then keep your thinking distance. Which is 30 feet @30mph. It's all about stopping distances really. The faster you are travelling the more room you need in order to stop and keep everyone, including yourself, safe. As has been said then you need to double your distance in the wet as it takes longer to to stop. Hope you nail the next one bud!