Shepherd

Can I ask why? Is it manoeuvring it around, or something else? I'm on my first 'big' bike, and it's fully faired (Deauville). Apart from the school bike, and my little cb125f, I've never ridden another bike. The Deauville is ok when moving, but a beast to get in the shed.

Good that the driver could tell something wasn't quite right, may have stopped a disaster. A colleague at work has the railway guys doing much the same at the line at the bottom of her massive garden. Paying her £400 a week for access to the track, and gonna be at least 6 weeks work

Compulsive viewing, makes me wish I had: a) a garage, b) the knowledge & c) the money. Mainly the knowledge though, I can save up and work in the garden when it warms up.

Well done @Stu, much easier on the eyes As promised, my donation sent. Shep

Passed M.O.T. this morning with no advisories @linuxrob - you're calipers look better than mine before you cleaned them, and I spent hours cleaning mine! Impressive.

Happy to share this initial cost with you - saved more than that from some of the advice given on here

Of course it's a coincidence the soon to be completed wheelie bin storage is big enough to store my bike ...

That sounds good for an inexperienced wannabe spanner monkey like me

Tis my pride and joy - took me hours

Thanks for the replies everyone, appreciated. So a bike dolly it is then! I think I'll have a go at bringing the level up to meet the base without a lip, if I can find a cement that won't crack, being quite a thin layer. The exterior levelling compound sounds better to resist cracking. If I can avoid the extra height that bigger castors will bring, so much the better. It was me that laid both lots of concrete, and I left a difference in levels to avoid rain seeping in - wish I'd thought about access first

I think the trolley @dynax showed will be the answer, I should be able to lay a little more concrete/screed mix to bring the outside bit up to the door level. It should fit on the pavement without dropping over kerb, I'll check measure shortly. I was rather hoping to be able to wheel it straight in though It may have half a roof fixed, with the other half hinged - if I can work out how, without a centre support. The Wife is hopping mad that the 'wheelie bin' store has grown in to one of my projects

Thanks for the replies, I'll take a photo tomorrow - as a picture speaks a thousand words, apparently onesea's fence panel idea mayideaa way to go too .

Thanks dynax, I saw them. Unfortunately have a small step to get in , and a pavement to cross with the dropped kerb still too high for the trolley wheels to get over.

Long winded I'm afraid... sorry. I have a possible dry place to store my bike , having cleared some space in the front garden, and was wondering if this item is the answer to a problem that I will have ... https://www.amazon.co.uk/vidaXL-Motorcycle-Powder-Coated-Quality/dp/B010P2KP20/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2NOKQZ1KDGOXN&dchild=1&keywords=motorcycle+chock+stand&qid=1611135167&spref The storage area is only around 5' high, and only just long enough to get my bike in (Deauville - big/heavy beast). Imagine an flat roof shed,but cut down by a third. I should be able to ride in, by ducking behind the screen, but getting the heavy bike out will be a problem as I'll not be able to stand up. Will I be able to just pull it out of the chock from the back of the bike, do you think? Is the chock strong enough to hold the bike up without support? I suppose I'm trying to achieve similar to the 'secure-a-bike' sheds with the rolling floor, but on the cheap! I don't have the option to raise the height anymore, it's gonna look ugly enough as it is. I've considered a sliding roof, like the stargazers have for their scopes, but the runners are stupidly expensive, and I don't think I'm clever enough to have a lift up roof with gas piston assistance. Thanks for reading my waffle ...

My Deauville munches through the miles, and after a 3 hour ride last week, I still felt comfortable. Not the most exciting bike mind

Just remembered that when I did my Mod 1, the guy who went with me did the same as you. The instructor and I noticed that he didn't start between the 1st and 2nd cone, he tried to go round the first cone which made the turn much tighter than needed. It was just nerves making him forget the basics. Keep it as simple as you can, you can almost forget the first one and give yourself room to manoeuvre for the second cone.

I got my first 'big bike ' in September, Honda Deauville. It's a heavy beast, but you don't notice it when moving along. Very comfy, still fast enough acceleration for me after riding a 125cc for 2 years. You'll love whatever bike you get to start with, the difference is fantastic

Feel for you, I know how long it's taken you to finally get it booked. You can take a positive from it though - you now know the u turn area is a bit bigger than where you were practising, and you can use more space than you thought for the figure 8 section. As an aside, I got the knack of both on the evening before my Mod 1, when I raised the revs and gently rested my foot on the brake pedal. Trail braking apparently, whatever it's called it worked for me, and just in time.

Are you sure it's a Cardo Freecom, and not a 'FreedConn'? Check this Ebay item number... 283793722943

I have a waistcoat version and it's great! It runs off one of the power bank things you recharge like a mobile phone, so I consider it quite safe. Mine is very warm on the higher settings, and only needs to be on low normally. Sizes do come up small, but i went up two sizes and it's an ok fit. Didn't know about the trousers though, will have to look. Along with heated grips, I'm gonna look like the ready brek kid riding along ( for those that remember the ad)

Thank you all for your replies. @raesewell, I think it's the high Moly content that's needed, so worth the extra spend. Thanks again.

In my brave new world of tinkering with my Deauville, I am soon to remove the rear wheel. Being a shaft driven bike, I'm informed I should re-lube the splines with Moly 60, which is no longer available Can anyone let me know if this stuff is a suitable replacement, or recommend one that is? https://www.screwfix.com/p/multipurpose-grease-400ml/8436P?tc=GB8&ds_kid=92700046638549236&ds_rl=1243318&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxIyG6uio7QIVSeDtCh01vg22EAQYBCABEgI5mfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#product_additional_details_container I'm trying to learn a few things as I go along, but don't want to use a product that is unsuitable. Thanks in advance.

No, I'll be using the proper stuff for brakes. WD40 is just to lubricate wire wool/ Brillo pads to cleans the rims.

Did my first spannering today, knowing I could always find help on here if I needed it. Thanks to you guys 'n' gals, I now have a nice new pair of brake discs fitted. Wasn't brave enough to renew the brake fluid though It did show me just how grungy everything is when I started taking bits off - so I'll do it all again soon and have plenty of brake cleaner/wd40/kerosene to hand.

I think it can give you a sense of achievement if you stay within your limits, and close to YouTube. I'm fairly new to the two wheels world, but decided I'd have a go at as much as possible now that I am here. I used to enjoy working on the basics with cars, but accessibility to most of them was so restricted. On bikes, once the Tupperware is off, you can get to most bits. Did my first spannering today, changing the front discs . Mighty chuffed with myself