eastanglianbiker

if you are taking the forks into the shop already off the bike an average is about £40 if you take the bike in for them to do the whole job they will very possibly work on hourly labour charge and you can look at 3-4 hours minimum,,also instruct them that you want genuine parts fited not pattern parts as pattern fork seals seem to leak far to easy but genuine will be fine

in the front casing very near the sprocket there will be a small switch and somewhere there will be a loose wire that needs refitting to the switch unless the chain ripped the top off the switch in which case that will need renewing as well

stu i used to run a yam xt500 with loads of engine work done to it making it almost race spec and that used copper head gasket u heated that up in oven untill it had rainbow effect when running a match stick over it then cooled rapidly then reused it i refitted it at least 8 times that i can remember without any problems

yep right bike and engine for your frame shame his loom is as bad as yours

dont forget to check model number as different years are different numbers and some parts fit others dont but might be worth seeing if he got the wiring loom(undamaged only) unless you have already found one,and yep looking at ur pics it will be cheaper to buy a good engine rather than rebuild your one just dont forget that seller on ebay says collection only and is down near leicester so you have got to factor in fuel costs going to collect it as well

you need to get the crank built by someone who knows what they are doing as the crank pin needs to be pressed out and new one into the crank or buy a complete new crankshaft assembly personally i would buy an engine with sellers word that its good

alex has just treated himself to cbr600rr so will be injected i would of thought but yes if carbs should run on for 1/2 mile or so unlike injected that once pumps stops so does engine

if the fuel pump stops it may well stop very quick as the pump is pushing fuel into the injectors no fuel in means its going to cut almost straight away i would of said

might be worth going braided on the lines as well

oldest daughter had a tzr a few years ago she loved it i even stole it a few times altho it wasnt keen on hauling me about to much lol went well tho when it was running nice

dunno then must admit i have slept since i was told about it lol still as long as yours is fine you have the spare in ca se its needed

i would get it running before pulling it right apart even if it means doing engine rebuild first its just the biggest part of the job,if you need new loom to get it to run as you are going to pull it all right apart once you have had it running i would leave loom loose on side of frame and plug it all in wouldnt worry about fixing it to the frame and threading it everywhere will look messy but saves lots of messing about fiting it and then removing it all again also make sure you get the corect loom for your model bike as there are several diffenet spec ones out there you need to check vin number for 4LB or whatever it starts with and get a loom from same model

mate of mine had an early R and had the recall for clutch case yours might of been done in past owners lifes if yo havent had it from new otherwise not got a clue mate

check the headlight bulb first and replace if needs be sounds like its only the bulb blown

that sounds to me like either the big end or main bearings or possibly the cam chain

stu you saying about the plastic type bits in strainer i know on early tl1000's they had a recall due to the coating on inside of clutch case breaking up and getting caught in oilways

once you have got the engine running i personally would strip it right down to bare frame and then take frame and swinging arm get them blasted and powder coated you will never have to worry about rust again then,you could also get the wheels redone in white powder at the same time will look stunning then once rebuilt

1st thing to check is the wires and plug under the tank you will need to remove seat and tank and check plug coming away from gauge and see if its pluged into corrosponding plug in the loom or if the wire has been trapped and has been broken due to being trapped

looking at the rear pic each bulb only has one filament in it so are you sure that one bulb isnt higher wattage than the other so you will have one on for low beam and turning high beam on will turn the other one on that has higher wattage

as tango says you need to check floats and make sure they are not sticking failing that if the fuel tap has an OFF position then turn fuel tap to that and run the bike for a minute after turning fuel off as that will partly rain float bowls and stop the floats sticking so much hopefully

as tango said check bulb first as its rare for both switches to give up at the same time

if the relay is sparking replace it as it is either sticking on the left hand side of it or direct shorting

spray some wd 40 round the front of the carb and inlet rubber wile engine is running if the revs increase then you have got air being drawn in and will need to fix by replacing the inlet rubber or tightening the carb grip screw

where are you looking ?in the top of the radiator or in the expansion bottle ?

check out yamaha rxs 100 or 125 mgiht have the disc on front but like the others have said you will need both fork legs and possibly the yokes as well