megawatt
-
Posts
3,052 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Store
Gallery
Community Map
Everything posted by megawatt
-
Keep an eye on oil leakage from the output shaft bearing seal. Don't mistake oil from that area for chain lubricant. If it doesn't leak, you're probably ok.
-
Clean it and repaint it.
-
Most of the roads north of the Clyde are great mate and some to the south . Allow a lot of time to return from some of the more outlying islands and towns as there are few direct routes in the highlands. If you go to Campbeltown on the Kintyre peninsula, try the World Famous spicy haggis tortilla chips at the big pub near the oval roundabout. Beware of foreign drivers on your side of the road and use the little ferries to reduce journey times. Gimme a bell for a chat. I loved every mile of it.
-
We drive to Norway, towing the caravan, via France, Holland,Germany, Denmark and Sweden. A great journey , and beautiful cities and countryside on the way. Norway is awesome, but yes, very expensive, especially drink. You can freecamp almost anywhere, I think, if you're sensible, but ther are a lot of small huts you can rent for not s lot of money. The scenery is breathtaking. Do the trollstiggen pass and the Atlantic road. We did s few car ferries and enjoyed them more than the tourist boats. Narrow fyjord was fabulous.
-
Yes it is. When the engine speed increases significantly faster than the road speed. Clutch plate removal usually fairly easy apart from stopping the clutch centre turning when you need to undo the centre nut. Check frictions aren;t burnt or smell burnt and check steels aren't warped or blued. Can sometimes recover steels by surface grinding them. Barnett supply a lot of aftermarket clutches.
-
Doubt it's spark plugs, but it is a comparatively cheap fix ?
-
I buy a lot of stuff from Aldi. It's German ? and TUV approved usually. I'd buy one without any worries.
-
I'd be very careful using an impact driver on your bolt. Slim chance of cracking the crankcase!!!
-
Just buy a valve, degrease the threads and screw the fookin thing in with a load of silicone on it. If it won't tighten up use some filler on it. I think you're making a mountain out of a molehill mate, JFDI FFS.
-
Your choice mate, but I've never had a problem with either method. I think you're wasting your time and money by rethreading it and could cause more problems than you solve.
-
Like I said Barcud, with the valve installations, you don't need to drill and tap a new thread, you just need to araldite or plastic metal the valve into the hole. As long as there's something to grip onto , the valve will seal!!!
-
Have you tried flushing bits out with degreaser ? Or use a magnet on a stick?
-
A mate sent me the only picture i've seen of my of my pre unit, Morgo , blown Triumph from 1982. Dunno why he's oiling my head? http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-12/IMG-20141231-WA0000_zpsq9e63szf.jpg
-
Been to the Pas de Calais and Normandy a few times. Gimme a shout for advice etc.?
-
You need to extend the hole toward and past the centre until it is symetrical. I use miniature grinding bits or Dremel bits. You need to be very careful not to crack the casing. If you can't remove broken stud , you may just have to leave it alone.
-
I don't use any penetrating oils on steel bolts stuck in alloy, I heat up the alloy and freeze the steel. I wouldn't hit that broken stud very hard or you may crack the crankcase. You need to recentralise the hole in the stud. I also don't use easy outs. I use a square file tang, the bit that the wooden handle fits over. The corners are sharper than easy outs and you can turn it with mole grips .
-
If you flush all the oil out of the sump with petrol, warm it dry, then use brake cleaner on the sump and valve, apply arraldite or a plastic metal with lots of aluminium in it and keep sump warm while it sets, you should be successful. If it does leak, just remove it and fit a thread repair adapter, then clean up the valve and screw it back in with some silicone sealant on the threads.
-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-XF-650 ... 3390b75b38 This is the one I was told about. Bit dearer than yours though. Here's how it works http://www.stahlbus.com/products/en/oil ... EN_400.gif The Quickvalve listed for your bike, Suzuki XF 650 Freewind (AC) 1997-2002 , is listed at £20 though?
-
You need to measure the outside diameter of your sump bolt and how far apart the tops of the threads are to get the correct pitch. If you screw the valve thread into a damaged sump thread with arraldite or metalmend on it , it will become part of the sump and shouldn't leak again. You don't necessarily have to rethread it.
-
I know a guy that fitted one to a BMW road bike and loves it.
-
I tested one by removing it, pushing a screwdriver into the hole against the tensioner blade. I started the engine and oil spewed out of the tiny hole. As I pushed on the screwdriver , the noise got quieter. I stripped and cleaned the tensioner, made sure the oil way was clear, refilled it with clean oil, rebuilt it and refitted it. Been good ever since.
-
Manual one should sort it, but first try removing yours, give it a good clean and make sure there's oil pressure getting to it.
-
A company sells a valve that you can glue/ metal fill into the damaged sump bolt hole. You never have to remove the sump bolt again. There is a short tube and a valve off the end of the tube to allow oil draining. Costs about £35 though.
-
Maybe, probably not.
-
Get two split or rivet links and somehow buy one inner link from somewhere. The tight link will fail eventually.
