megawatt

Put fresh fuel in tank, slush it around. Fully charge battery. Turn over while gently tapping float bowls with a wooden mallet or piece of wood. DO NOT USE METAL!!!. Deal with oil once bike is running. Bell me for details?

I arrived at Clackets at 1130 and left around 1200ish. Rode to Cobham. met a couple of mates and took the scenic route back home from jct 6. Sorry about fuzzy pix, musta been the cold. http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/IMAG1916_zps2c85a006.jpg http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/IMAG1917_zps945c0c51.jpg http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/IMAG1918_zps4db4a414.jpg http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/IMAG1919_zps328e1909.jpg http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/IMAG1920_zps948d855f.jpg

Do what I said earlier in thread? Just be careful with fuel. I had 1/2 gallon of water in my tank from a refuel once.

Just bought a red t shirt from British heart foundation for one pound.

Don,t use a heat gun on plastic. Use several grades of wet and dry with water.

Got a link for that Poncho Alan? I'll be doing Clacket lane to Cobham.

Drain fuel into clear container. Look for water and crud.

I'll meet you at Clacket Lane services Claire. How will I know you?

Doesn't necessarilly need a leakdown tester, just a way of applying compressed gas into the combustion chamber. If this is done with a cold engine, without a layer of oil on the rings, he only then has to listen for air flow from the valves or crankcase breathers to get an idea where the worst of the leaks is coming from. If it leaks at 50psi, it's gonna leak worse at 100psi. If it doesn't leak at 50psi and your still worried, then find a higher pressure gas source. I have made adaptors from old sparkplugs and used a minipump to achieve higher pressures. You are not looking for a precise reading at first, just the source of the leak.

If he hasn't got 100psi, he will need to do it at a lower pressure?

If it's leaking, it's leaking. I've done loads of leakdown tests on my dragrace engines at less than 100psi. The rings will leak when dry and cold, just depends how bad the leak is.

dunno why you need 100 psi. Any air pressure in the CC will do, with piston at TDC and all valves closed. Just listen????

Get a bike place to do a leakdown test. It just pressurises your combustion chamber with compressed air, then you listen at the valves and engine breathers to work out where the worst leakage is from. Only other way is to make a connection via the spark plug hole to a spare tyre?

Is there any fuel in the tank? If so, wheel the bike onto some wasteland, empty tank contents onto bike, retire to a safe distance and throw a lighted match into it. Cheapest way of sorting Chinese bikes!!!

Drain the tank and flush it out. Then remove fuel tap and clean that. If you still have problems, strip and clean the carbs.

Was there any crud on the fuel tap inlet? Usually a filter there. have you cleaned the fuel tap?

What Stu said. Just lowering the rear will make the bike more stable , but will slow the stearing a bit. Never had any issues when I lowered the rear of my Bandit 12 by 3". If you must lower the front, I wouldn't go lower than 10 to 20mm, but I doubt you will need to.

Drain the tank into a clear container. Remove fuel tap and make sure it's clean and there is no crud on the inlet from the tank. Flush tank out with fresh, clean fuel and dispose of it away from any sparks or electrics. Refit the clean fuel tap.There should be a vacuum connection to the engine and fuel tap to allow the fuel tap to open. Check the outlet from the fuel tap is allowing fuel to flow to the carb. drain fuel from tnhe carb float bowl and if possible remove float bowl to clean any crud and water out. Put it all back together and start the bike up with fresh fuel in the tank and the fuel tap set to reserve.

I do more bike servicing and maintenance than most and have always used Lidl or Aldi spanners and never had a problem with them. I also have a Lidl torque wrench that has been calibrated and more accurate than my Norbar!!!

Have always bought and used Haynes manuals. Just need a bit of common sense. If in doubt, ask.

They are easy to make out of steel or wood. Loads of plans on the net. Some just use a standard, removable hydraulic trolley jack or a screw thread. Cost for new are around 300 quid. If you can wait, I,ll make one for ya.

Don,t waste money on expensive tools. Buy a Haynes manual and tools from Halfords , aldi or lidl. Buy a torque wrench if worried about over tightening. If not sure, ask on here or give me a bell and I,ll talk you through it. Also consider cable adjustments, it,s all easy, or we couldn,t do it.

HID is the way to go.

Well done. If you can remove one, you can refit it.

Post pix of new clip on and one still fitted on other side will ya mate?