megawatt

Thanks for the PM Stu. I'll PM my number for a chat mate?

Get the engine stinking hot, then squirt the studs with freeze spray.

Best of the lot are DID X ring Gold. Not cheapest, but last longest.

What they said. First , scrub it clean and apply WD40. Try to get weight off shock and continue turning it. If no joy, use spring compressors and then turn it. Good luck.

Hi Dale, I've replied to your PM. I'm usually out most weeks, with a few others. Often around Romney Marsh area.

Probably not. The axle nut can be tightened until you fart. It's supposed to be tight. Probably the brake drum is oval or warped. Put bike on centre stand and spin the wheel, if no noises keep tightening adjuster until ther are and then back off until there aren't. Go for a ride, preferably on a long uphill section and come to a halt without using back brake. If drum is hot , back off the adjuster some more. Brake shoe cam could also be sticking.

Yes it is, 25,000 miles outta my last chain. Just don't overdo the brake cleaner.

Paraffin followed by brake cleaner on a towel.

Sounds like a fuelling problem to me. Could be crud in the fuel or possibly in the carbs.

Yes it should fit, if your downpipe/ header is standard. Gimme a bell tomorrow night. I,ll pm my number.

Do the test I sugested and then get back to me?

Hey Mandy, I'm going tomorrow with Hunter. Will PM my moby for a get together?

Try pulling the chain off the back sprocket at the very back, furthest from front of bike. If it pulls off more than 2 or 3mm, it's fooked.

Always handy if there's a local track? The further away , the more the transport costs. You could hire a bike to start with, but trackbikes aren't too expensive. Find a reliable 400 or 600 , preferably with spare wheels for wet tyres. Ideally find someone that has just packed in and wants to sell everything. You will need a vehicle. Van is best , but loads have a car, towbar and trailer. Buy economical ,reliable, not fast. If you have paid £200 for a trackday, you want to make sure you get there. Similarly an reliable, safe trackbike is more important than a fast one. Good luck.

Probably not. If you can see lumps of shiny metal in there, they are probably sintered metal pads.

If you are short of funds, nothing wrong with Lidl or Aldi spanners and Allen keys. I have several sets. If you fancy a ride down mate, gimm a shout?

Yep, Haynes manual is what I buy with every bike and remove some parts , to clean em if you like. Remove engine covers, but be careful not to damage gaskets. It ain't rocket science. Which part of London are you in? Have a ride down to my place? I have a few bikes and engines in pieces.

Gimme a bell and I,ll talk you through checking and setting the steering head bearing clearance. Ideally you need front wheel off ground , but not essential.

Yep, wire em via a relay connected to a feed from the ignition, ie if the ignition is off, the feed is off and no flat battery. Haven't got a diagram , but someone on here will have one.

Very often two nuts with a locking washer with tabs to lock the two together. You have PM mate.

The nut underneath the top yoke is what you adjust to set the head bearing clearance. It should not be tight, it should be backed off until a click can be felt when moving the forks forwards and backwards with the wheel off the ground and then turned clockwise a little to stop the clicking . The nut on top of the yoke should indeed be tight.

Sounds like a broken support bracket for clocks or fairing. Needs looking at sooner than later. Try pushing and pulling on the fairing etc. I wouldn't tighten the steering head nut too much or you'll destroy the bearings!!!

I'll be trying my best. Anybody got a spare bridesmaid outfit ??? C.mon Gill, stop playing hard to get ?

If it's a properly engineered system you shouldn't need anything else. A lot of systems do have a replaceable joint/gasket. Avoid using car exhaust sealant as it makes a mess and rarely works.

Oh all right then. How about a Britney Spears red catsuit???.