megawatt

Well, never heard that before! How can lapping a valve in help the engine stop revving with the throttle shut??? Think you have put it back together and disturbed what was causing the problem

Make sure the inside of grips is completely dry and not greasy. I use a smear of silicone for extra grip.

Have you got a garage or shed?

Very impressive mate. Good job!

Never had any squeeks outta my Sidis? Got some size 9 red/back ones for sale if any interest?

Well done for doing your own maintenance Before you remove the carb, empty the fuel tank contents into a fuel can, remove tank and remove fuel tap. There is usually a tubular mesh filter attached to the fuel tap, inside the tank. Give it a clean with brake cleaner and stip , clean and rebuild the tap. Sometimes the diaphragm in the tap can be damaged and not give full fuel flow. When fuel tap rebuilt, slosh a bit of fuel around the tank and drain it into a container with a tissue and funnel to see if there are any bits in the tank. Put the fuel tap back on and refit the tank, taking care not to trap any breathers or vacuum pipes under it. Check for an extra in -line fuel filter , clean it etc, replace and then try the bike. If no change, remove carb, disconnect throttle and choke cables. Check pilot jet setting before removing, then strip all items out of carb, clean with carb or brake cleaner or in a ultrasonic bath, blow through all fuel and air ways, then carefully rebuild. Good luck, Alan.

Lookin good mate, can't wait for more pix.

If it is just the collector that is rotten and it looks terminal, send it to me and I will make you a new one outta stainless? How much for that new part and can you post pix please?

As it happens I arrived at 1710 and unexpectedly Borgy's dad was there to help me load the bike. Was on my way by 1800. Will meet up one day mate. You could always ride down my way? Some great roads down here?

I'm driving to Borgy65, Jacks, place near Windsor this afternoon to pick up his GPZ500s. I'll be arriving, hopefully about 1700, to avoid the peaktime traffic, and meeting Borgy and OhJay about 1830. Anybody in the area fancy meeting up for a chat and a coffee, preferably around 1700ish?

Some Blade shocks are rebuildable/regassable, some aren't. I'd sooner do that than buy a new Hagon though!!! I have a Nitron on mine.

Item 6B looks like a locking washer. If it is thin, tighten clutch nut , with washer just under nut, to specified torque or until you fart. Bend washer towards nut an two or three sides and squeeze against nut with a pair of molegrips. You shouldn't need threadlock. PM your number for a chat?

Shouldn,t need it, should be a locking washer on it. Threadlock won,t do any harm unless you wanna undo it again.

I'll be visiting Borgy in Windsor on Thursday evening, will you be around late afternoon/teatime? I can pop in and have a look if you want???

Did the revs increase without a speed increase or did the speed and revs not increase???

I can get deep scratches out of stainless with a high speed abrasive pollishing pad called a Roloc. Look at Remy,s thread for her exhaust cover. I finish with Autosol on a polishing mop and buffing to a mirror finish.

What are you pollishing? Carbon fibre , stainless, alloy , Titanium or plastic?

If it's that bad , you should replace it. They are usually lined with ptfe, so don't need lubricating. In the past I have used 3in1, hang cable vertically by the inner nipple, make a plasticene funnel and drip 3in1 into it until it comes out at the bottom.

Smooth mate, it's surface area that gives you grip!

Finish of steels is usually smooth with small dents in, but it's surface area that's important. I have surface ground a set for my dragbike, to get an extra plate in. Are your compression springs OK. If friction, steels and springs are all OK , it must be the actuation that's at fault. Have you checked the clutch inner and basket for indentations?

Thanks Bob.

My mate's linkpipe is finished! Made out of two pieces clamped together. http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/Exhaust%20stuff/IMAG0900.jpg http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/Exhaust%20stuff/IMAG0901.jpg And a video. Double click on piccy. http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/th_VIDEO0077.jpg

I have heard off other forums that WD can damage O rings, but have never seen any evidence. For what it's worth, WD40 dries out, coz it's mostly paraffin, so chain will rust if left for a week. I use paraffin to clean my chains, finish with brake cleaner on a terry towel. When it's dry I use MucOff ptfe chain lube and then re apply every 200 miles. My last DID X ring Gold chain lasted 35,000 miles.

How you gonna remove the "silencer" from the K7 cat Joe? Can you run a thread when yo do it, pleeeeeeze?

Yer right Joe , I got it wrong and changed the title. My mate hated the SET valve and was glad to get rid of it. He reckons it's much more responsive without and the bike doesn't lurch forward when the valve opens