megawatt

You could be right Joe, don't know my Gixxers. And a video, tubes held together with gaffer tape!!! http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/th_VIDEO0076.jpg

Thanks Martin, ya missed it this year in Winster didn't you No Gayle, they don't do emissions tests on bikes for MOT And a video; http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/th_VIDEO0076.jpg

A friend of a friend turned up today. He had asked me if we could get rid of the 11lb lump of steel and chemicals that is his standard catalytic converter, make and fit a linkpipe to his carbon Yoshimura silencer. Got a shock when we removed the fairing, bloody headers are welded to the cat!!! So it was out with the angle grinder!!! http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/IMAG0875.jpg http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/IMAG0876.jpg http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/IMAG0877.jpg http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/IMAG0878.jpg http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/IMAG0879.jpg We made a short coupling and blatted to my local TIG welder so he could weld it to the 4 into 1 section just after the Lambda probe. Next we cut up some pieces of 304 stainless, two sets with 30 degree angles, offered em up, a bit of length adjustment and voila. http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/IMAG0881.jpg http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/IMAG0882.jpg http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/IMAG0883.jpg Final welding and fitting of Mega clamps next week. Couldn't resist a test fire , so gaffer taped all the sections together and fired er up!!! Vids to follow.

If your clutch has been slipping the steel plates will have got hot. If too hot , they will have warped or dished. You need to check them with a feeler gauge or Rizla paper.

Yes you are right mate, but if you are stripping the clutch it's always worth having a look at the bearing and behind the basket at the reaction springs.

Strip the clutch and undo the centre nut BEFORE disconnecting the driveshaft. You will need to put bike in gear, apply the rear brake and undo the centre nut. Unless you buy or make a special tool. Take pix and post on here as you strip the clutch???

You should use the oil specified for your engine! Fully synth is the best, but not all engines can cope with it's slippy qualities. I have used it in old, race engines with modified clutches, but maybe yours needs stiffer springs or more plates to cope with the better tribology of a fully synth. You need to look at your clutch plates to confirm.

Some old Suzukis didn't like fully synthetic oil. If yours doesn't, you would need to soak the friction plates in degreaser or probably replace them for uncontaminated ones. Have a look at the steels. If it is slipping they should be blue and dished.

I reckon worn friction and blue steels brought on by wrong oil?

What about the second question? Free play at lever?

I wonder if you have used two different types of clutch fluid that have reacted with each other? When the clutch slips is there free play at the lever. If there is, the problem is within the clutch itself, either wrong engine oil or plates warped/worn. If there is no free play, the clutch actuator rod could be sticking in the engine casing. I had this with my Bandit12. stripped and cleaned everything, new seal and all was good !

It is still worth dropping the sump and checking/cleaning the oil sieve mate. If you lose oil pressure due to a blocked sieve, you will quickly wreck your engine!!!

Liked

Yes the rotor spins, usually on the end of the crankshaft. The stator is fixed to the inside of the alternator casing. if the clearances aren't right, the rotor could touch the stator! The oil sieve is usually in the sump. If you drop your oil and leave it to settle or sieve it, you can have another look for metal bits. Drop your sump or sump plate and you should see the sieve, which picks up oil from the sump on the way through the oil pump and then to the oil filter. Ther may be metal bits on the sieve. Change your drain bolt for one with a magnet in?

Here to help Rob. Could be worth a look at the alternator casing and the rotor. If you have lost insulation lacquer off the rotor or stator, you could have more problems. Also check the oil sieve in the sump. If you block it up with metal shavings , you will have oil starvation problems!!!

,As said steel should stick to magnetic sump plug. Silver shards are probably alluminium from clutch basket. If clutch is noisy and sometimes difficult to engage/disengage then you need to look at the alloy basket for wear. As said, gold shards are a bigger worry as they are bits of thrust washers from the gearbox and or crankshaft. Good luck.

Carbon will probably burn through before long?

Sounds knackered.

Yes, probably, but try it anyway, you may get lucky?

You do need them. Hold in with a blob of silicone or exhaust paste .

Depends how big the hole is. If less than 3mm , use a self tapping screw. Otherwise it's a patch or repair bandage. If it's a Bandit collector, that's an easy repair with a new length of stainless tube welded to the headers. All chromed, mild steel exhaust collectors will eventually rot out, so I replace them with 304 grade stainless steel. Not as shiny as chrome, but should last forever!

I can't recommend a particular Japanese 125, except possibly a Suzuki Marauder. They will be more reliable and easier to maintain than Chinese bikes. Stainless can be polished to a chrome like shine , but it will need regular polishing. But it won't RUST. I have a Fireblade Streetfighter and a Yamaha XVS1300 Midnight Star cruiser

Yeah , he can get home , after waiting an hour for someone to tell him they can't fix it and at least another hour for a recovery vehicle. Possibly , just because of a loose connection or a blown fuse. Genius

Yes WD40 is mostly paraffin and will evaporate. Grease or vaseline or chain lube won't. Bare metal and chrome needs regular polishing or covering with the above or it will oxidise and rust. I am here to help and can wait for jobs when you are ready. I enjoy fixing things and keeping people away from bike dealers. advise hubby to buy second hand Japanese 4 stroke, instead of new Chinese/Korean. They are worth more when selling and are more reliable.

Well done Boothy, you have made the decision to not be able to fix your bike when it breaks down or doesn't start. Congratulations, you are a genius