Throttled

Happy birthday

Mine does, riding around country roads and the motorway can be terrible.

I have the Simoncelli http://www.jsaccessories.co.uk/media/catalog/product/a/g/agvk3svsimocilli.jpg I find the pinlock covers most of the visor and do not notice the gaps. It has great ventilation and goes quiet when they are all closed. The sun visor is not dark enough for me and I can still be a bit dazzled by the sun.

A neighbour had one in red like that. Stunning and still usable. The official world record highest mileage car is a 1800s with over 3 million miles on the clock and still going.

Wow, Thanks for the detailed breakdown and checklist of tools etc.. I think I have most of those things - well, my stepdad has 2 garages of tools - although it may take a while to find the ones I need as they are a tip! haha I might just try myself.. I really don't have a lot of money to be spending on a garage service and I would love to learn anyway. Would I need a stand for the bike to do any of this? Not got one yet, still saving for an abbastand I assume I should torque the bolts up too, which I imagine I would find in a Haynes manual(?) You don't need a stand but it does help to have the bike more upright for access. I use a rear axle stand like this; http://www.fastbikebits.com/shopimages/products/normal/PDSTANDR.jpg The bolts just need to be tight, you do not need to worry about specific torque settings. Remember to put a bit of copper grease round them to help preserve them. ........ I also want to attempt to do oil & filter (I don't think that'll be hard) and would also like to put new coolant in too as I have no idea when the bike was last serviced anyway. Oil and filter are simple. If anything that should be your first job to get into the swing of things. You need 1 - a tray or better a container like this as it means once the oil has been drained you can take to your local disposal facility, you cannot just pour it away anywhere. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8L-Engine-Oil ... 3cd85643c1 2 - a filter removal tool. This is hard to advise on as different bikes suit different tools due to access. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw= ... cat=180124 3 - the gloves and kitchen towel you have already got 4 - a socket to remove the sump plug. 5 - some recommend replacing the sump plug washer each time, I have not bothered since it has not been damaged or corroded and have had no issues. 6 - a funnel for pouring in the oil, you wnat a different one from the one you use with brake fliud. It is best to have one funnel for each job and keep them separate. 7 - the oil, I use Halfords 10W/40 part synthetic. The amount you need is down to the bike. The 5 ltr container will give you ample and spare for next time. This is a clear guide on how to do it. http://www.elsham.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/ ... nd-filter/

Delboy appears to have quite a fan club here as I am also a subscriber. Mechanically it is a simple job, but because it is the brakes, it is daunting. Step 1 make sure you have all the correct tools. - Some disposable gloves and kitchen wipes to keep you and tools clean. Kitchen towel to mop up any spills, especially brake fluid which is horrible stuff. - A basic socket set for the bolts. There are likely to be two keeping the caliper in place. The brake fluid nipple on the caliper can be dealt with a spanner or if you are careful pliers. - You may need some needle pliers if there is a pin keeping the pads in place. - An old or cheap screwdriver and small hammer for very gentle persuasion if the pads are stuck. - A bucket of soapy water and a little brush/dish brush for cleaning. You can also brake cleaner, but it can go for the seals around the pistons, so use it first and then wash off with soap and water. - A screwdriver to take off the fluid reservoir lid. Some, especially back brakes, just have a lid that screws off. - A small funnel as you may need it to help pour the fluid into the reservoir, especially for back brakes. - A means to drain out the brake fluid and pump it back through once. I use this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Bleeding-kit-Brake-Bleeder-Clutch-Bleeding-Kit-Free-Delivery-dot4-Fluid-/151653501615?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item234f40caaf and a plastic jug to drain the fluid into. It is a non return valve and you pump the fluid through with the brake lever. At £5.49 it is one the best bits of kit I have bought. - You may need a means to push the caliper pistons back to fit the new pads. Hopefully you can do it with your fingers, but if crudded up they can be stiff. Your crappy screwdriver may also be enough to try and lever them back. I have adjustable pliers like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-WATER-PUMP-PLIERS-GROOVE-JOINT-ADJUSTABLE-PIPE-WRENCH-WATER-PUMP-5A-/370718278363?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item56508802db which have a scrap of cloth round the teeth to stop scratches. If the pistons will not budge that is a remove them job and whilst simple enough, I would suggest it is time to get a mechanic in. - Copper grease for the bolts to keep them in good condition. There is no point in putting it on the backs of the pads as you do in a car, as they are to exposed and it will wash off. Step 2 watch Delboy and take notes. The principle is the same for pretty much every bike with disc brakes. "> "> Step 3 settle down at your bike with all your tools and other bits to hand and change the pads and fluid. Remember, proper, prior, planning prevents piss poor performance.

Yes, though......I forgot my number once and borrowed a pen a piece of paper from the cafe/pub I was outside to photo. So long as it is your number showing, it counts.

Ride to my lock up so the chain is warm. Put down some cardboard and roll the bike onto it. Lift the back wheel with an axle stand. Spin the back wheel and rub the chain with a dry brush to get off grit and crud. Spin the back wheel and liberally apply WD40 to clear away the grease. Slowly move the back wheel round and wipe the chain dry with a rag. Slowly move the back wheel and apply your lube of choice. Tidy up and ride home. I use Silkoline as it copes well with the wet and lasts in poor conditions. But it makes a mess.

Thats incredible priest. It looks like the tyre stayed inflated Scores updated.

I did your survey and predict no correlation at all. Here is my view on the coming elections. Whatever party you vote for, their policies are entirely dependent on the massive debt burden we are under and how they plan to pay for the policy whilst dealing with the debt. Some parties want to continue to ignore the elephant in the room. Some propose austerity light. Others want to make large in roads into repaying the money. Vote to ignore the debt and you need to tell your kids why they will have to suffer austerity because we avoided it as much as possible. Vote austerity light and you need to tell your kids why they are still paying our debts. Vote to pay it off and you can tell your kids about what happened when we borrowed too much and austerity. My vote is not going to be party political. It is purely on dealing with the crisis that we pretend is not really there. We have convinced ourselves massive levels of borrowing are fine. We have coped much better than Greece. But Greece hardly paid any tax and borrowed pretty much all their public spending. We feel rich, but that us due to compensation coming from mis-selling that is running out. It has paid for all the new cars and extensions we see about the place (The Tories want to replace that money flow by letting pensioners do what ever they want with their pensions by getting rid of annuities). But the fact is the debt will restrict growth and how much we can spend on services.

Get something that is on the drop down list of security chains/locks when you quote for insurance. I like a combination of chain and disc lock that works with a ground anchor, so went for the Kryptonite New York noose http://www.kryptonitelock.com/content/k ... 99539.html which is in the insurance list.

Strange. Anyway, I have downloaded from flickr, uploaded to the gallery and posted them all again.

Hopefully they will re-appear. I'll leave it for a day or so and if it continues I will upload them instead.

I have just posted an image on the ABR forum, so maybe the problem is here?

All my photos have disappeared I will assume something has gone wrong with Flickr.

Throttled & Throttled Jnr The Lodge Forrest Visitors Center [album]1381[/album] [album]1380[/album] Carbeth Inn [album]1382[/album] [album]1383[/album] Wallace Monument [album]1379[/album] [album]1378[/album]

Next to the other bikes on display, the Brough looks so well made and finished.

Great post. Just back from a weeks holiday in Wales, but with the car. Spent the whole time jealous of the bikers!

At the Museum of Speed, Pendine, in a case hence the reflections. Still, an object of beauty and great expense as one sold for £286,000.

What did you do with the mirrors?

I have had these for a couple of years and in day long torrential rain and they have not failed http://www.jsaccessories.co.uk/antaris- ... black.html My bikes have handguards so the worst of the rain blast is directed away from the gloves. I would still rate them as waterproof.

Scores updated. Nice to see so many now with points.

Review here viewtopic.php?f=83&t=50043

I have only used them when I am out with Throttled Jnr so we can speak. The issue we have had is the clip snapping, which has been fixed with super glue and a bit of cut up cable tie to reinforce the break. Ear plugs are essential because you also get the noise from the other helmet through the speakers!

The webBikeWorld website tests helmets and rates the field of view. http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle- ... elmets.htm