Tango

Sticking actuation rod.....(favourite was friction plates but that's already gone....).....

Well I guess the acid test will be to remove some fluid and try it out......start with the simple stuff.....

I was just trying to point out that there is another thread with the beginning of this story...so to speak..... Yeah...I agree Martin and EAB......the clutch fluid would get nowhere near as hot as brake fluid could. My money is going to be on worn friction plates or springs....especially as the bike was laid up for a time....so the friction plates could have dried out and now have glazed.... However, there is also the possibility that the clutch actuating rod may be sticking and not releasing correctly....or as you pointed out the clutch basket could be notched. As you say Martin, the clutch is a relatively simple device but contains a lot of parts....and especially when it has a hydraulic clutch operating mechanism rather than a simple cable....

BonneiBird's Bonneville developed a misfire when we went away at the weekend......which seemed to disappear when the bike got warm and after a short distance of running. Anyway, we had a look the other day and the misfire seemed to be on the lefthand cylinder.......so BonnieBird got some new plugs (they were only changed around March anyway)....and as I was at a loose end today I swapped them. I also checked the HT leads were plugged into the coil OK and the plug caps were tight. When I started the bike (with the seat off) I heard a small electrical type of pop when I hit the starter. So I investigated and found the -ve battery terminal was slightly loose....tightened it up and fired the bike up......no sign of any misfire now.... So.......Loose battery terminal?....but the starter span OK....and why would it only affect the lefthand cylinder?....... plugs?.....they were only replaced a couple of months back and have only covered a couple of thousand miles tops. HT Leads?......but they all look clean (no corrosion) and were fully seated in the coils. Hmmmm......don't you just hate it when you can't put your finger on the actual cause.... Haven't really run the bike yet....but the misfire when it was cold looks like it's now sorted....

Martin...this is kinda a continuation from another thread. Basically the master and slave cylinders have been stripped and cleaned, new fluid and bled.....I'm guessing that the motor spinning when changing gear is the clutch slipping when shifting up through the box. Seems it slips more when hot....but as the OP has said he thinks he may have overfilled the system so when the fluid expands when hot it's got nowhere to go except possibly disengaging the clutch slightly....

On a lot of bikes the clutch plates can be replaced without draining the oil....but you have to keep the bike on the sidestand. Unless the plain plates are warped you shouldn't need to replace them....but maybe clean them up when you have the clutch apart. Personally I'd replace the springs while the clutch is apart....not generally too expensive and worthwhile to eliminate them from any further trouble..... Haynes manual is your friend.....good investment if you don't already have one.... Remember to soak the new friction plates in clean engine oil for several hours (or overnight) before fitting them......also check the clutch basket for notching while you have it apart... Also remove the slave cylinder when it's all apart and check that the push rod moves freely without any binding etc. Relatively easy job that doesn't normally require any special tools.....

Teng tools....not cheap, but really good quality.......I have a few Teng screwdrivers and they are still good after several years of constant use at work..... http://toolstoday.co.uk/shop.php?sec=pr ... ers+TTHEX7

Not just the clutch plates are on their way out....and it's just one of those coincidence things? Obviously though if the push rod is sticking that could cause the problem....but it would tend to do it all the time unless its heat that is causing it to stick. Did you replace the seals or just clean them?...... If you didn't, I'd be inclined to replace the seals and try again.....

Liked......good luck Charlotte.....

Personally I'd use a specific penetrating oil Alex.......PlusGas or the like.....

Filled the ST up today.....was down to around 1/4 tank........158miles = £19's worth @ 1.36/litre.....can't be bothered to do the maths but the trip computer reckons average of 46mpg at the moment which sounds about right. I don't know what size tank the 1250 has on it.....but if you filled 3 times to get £45 worth of fuel in you're either not brimming it or the fuel warning light is coming on very early...... Anyway I guess you got your answer earlier....this was just an academic exercise.....

I think the trip computer on mine is saying 46mpg.....which ain't bad really. The Bandit is a heavy bike.....so I would have thought mid-40's wasn't bad at all.....

They look pretty good....and the 2 reviews are very positive..... I've got Sidi Black Rain Evo's which work pretty well......but are a nightmare for walking around in for any length of time.......but are good boots anyway.....

To be honest Tim I wouldn't go more than up 1 tooth on the front sprocket on that bike.....it won't have the guts to pull too higher gearing. -1 tooth on the rear sprocket?.....wouldn't bother if I were you..... it wouldn't have any significant affect on the overall gearing.... May be worth having a count of the teeth on your current sprockets as someone may have already tinkered with it.... Don't forget that altering the gearing by changing the number of teeth on the sprockets will affect your speedo readings unless the speedo is driven off the front wheel (don't know on a GN125 if this is the case).....

You'd need to go for a larger rear sprocket to drop the revs....but to be honest a tooth or 2 extra on the rear sprocket won't make a lot of difference. You'd be better off increasing the front sprocket by a tooth....that would make a bigger difference.......reduce acceleration, but increase top speed...or at least drop the revs at 50mph....

Nice pics Gary......looks like it was an ideal biking day...... Don't think this weekend will be the same somehow......

Yeah....excellent day out guys....... Cheers for taking the lead up there Darren........nice run mate...... Sorry, but we peeled off at Kings Lynn to go back via Wisbech........just a different route......but still pretty busy...... As you say.....lets hope we can get at least another run in before the end of the year........and maybe organise a season end meet at Rutland again.....

Head off mate in my humble opinion........you'll be lucky to get enough of an angle to knock the remaining plug round to free it with it in situ.......and any damage to the plug seat or threads and the head would be kn*ckered...... Remove the cylinder head and then you can really get at it and either try to remove it yourself or take it somewhere to get it removed professionally. The cylinder head is alloy.....won't take much of a knock in the wrong place to b*gger it up completely. Obviously just my opinion....but I personally wouldn't risk trying to remove the remaining plug without taking the head off......

any special tools i might need for this? i do have a full tool kit really , i was wondering if there is anything out of the ordinary i might need ? No special tools needed really......a decent socket set and a torque wrench will help....but aren't essential..... You'd only need a special tool if you were removing the clutch basket....which you shouldn't have to when replacing the plates. I'd invest in new clutch springs too if I were you.....worth doing if you're taking it apart anyway. Also soak the new plates in clean engine oil overnight before fitting them......otherwise they could glaze after a short while......and clean the pressure plates too and check them for warpage......just a few extra things while you've got the clutch apart that could give you less trouble in the long run.....

Nice one Darren.....we'll see you at the Marina at 10:00ish then......

I think we'll be up for this........gotta make the most of the weather as it's been fairly cr*p so far this year..... I'll text Neil.

2 little boys - Michael Jackson........no, sorry, I meant - Rolf Harris

I'm guessing Borgy ain't gonna be getting out on this one.......

Getting it changed on your "lazy day" sounds like a good plan Ed. BT021's have a harder compound in the centre of the tyre....and as you'll be heading down on Motorways it should be good for the run down as you'll mostly be using that part of the tyre..... Just my thoughts mate.....

So...you can't get the stanchion out of the slider? That's probably the bush that's stopping it coming out....and as you are going to replace the bushes I'd give it merry hell..... Heating the slider around the top where the seal is with a hot air gun will help too. Not sure about the hydraulic action pushing the seals out......they're normally in there pretty solid.....